Wisper PAS removal

[Farmerjim]

My Wisper 905 has developed an intermittant fault, i.e. no pedal assist. The throttle works fine. I think there is a loose wire in the PAS as jiggling the wire will return the bike to normal.

That said, I will need to remove the PAS and check it out which brings me to my question ........ Are Wisper cranks a normal size and will any crank puller fit? Halfords do one for about £7 .

Thanks for looking!
Jim

 

[Emo Rider]

My Wisper 905 has developed an intermittant fault, i.e. no pedal assist. The throttle works fine. I think there is a loose wire in the PAS as jiggling the wire will return the bike to normal.

That said, I will need to remove the PAS and check it out which brings me to my question ........ Are Wisper cranks a normal size and will any crank puller fit? Halfords do one for about £7 .

Thanks for looking!
Jim

If you have a magnetic disk that passes by the sensor, do this first. Check the gap between the magnetic disk and the pickup. It should be less than 5mm. Check to make sure the disk turns with the crank. Sometimes the little teeth that snug it to the crank axle break off. The only reason you would need to remove the crank is to replace the disk. If you have a 905 torque, take it to the shop. I do not recommend attempting to take out the bottom bracket that contains the torque sensor yourself.

 

[Farmerjim]

If you have a magnetic disk that passes by the sensor, do this first. Check the gap between the magnetic disk and the pickup. It should be less than 5mm. Check to make sure the disk turns with the crank. Sometimes the little teeth that snug it to the crank axle break off. The only reason you would need to remove the crank is to replace the disk. If you have a 905 torque, take it to the shop. I do not recommend attempting to take out the bottom bracket that contains the torque sensor yourself.

Thanks Emo, I'll have another look tomorrow although I think it will be a wiring fault ; with the bike upside-down and moving the crank the motor will cut in if the wire's in the right position.

 

[Nealh]

A std type of puller will be needed if the BB is sq taper.

David Miall may see this or contact him @Amps, their Wisper add is at the side of screen.
He will carry spares for all the range even after they have ceased production. If it a non torque model then repair is easier and simple with a new replacement.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Hi Jim I’m away at the moment at the factory. All of the above us accurate.

I think I saw an email from you addressed to support@amps.bike if it wasn’t you I suggest you contact Claud using this address. He will certainly be able to sort out the issue.

All the best, David

 

[Farmerjim]

Hi Jim I’m away at the moment at the factory. All of the above us accurate.

I think I saw an email from you addressed to support@amps.bike if it wasn’t you I suggest you contact Claud using this address. He will certainly be able to sort out the issue.

All the best, David

Thanks David, yes it was me, I'll contact Claude if I need a new part.
Jim

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Hey folks, I'm trying to remove the bottom bracket on my old wisper 905 - I'm sure the bearing are busted, and also I need to replace the pedal sensor. - But which way do I unscrew the lock ring on either side? They are so stuck I can't move them any direction - and need to make sure I know which way to force it before I start jumping on the tool.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Also - where do I get a new bottom bracket or bearings?

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Also - where do I get a new bottom bracket or bearings?

Hi Chris,

We support most of our older bikes. Please call Claud at our offices, he will be happy to assist you.

All the best, David

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Thanks. Will you ship to Norway?

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Sure no problem.

All the best, David

 

[wheeliepete]

But which way do I unscrew the lock ring on either side?

Drive side LH thread, so righty loosey, non drive side, RH thread, so lefty loosey. Hope your BB shaft is serviceable as Wisper don't have any, it's an odd size 156mm, I think. If you need one, you can convert the BB to sealed bearings. Claude told me a supply in US, I will try and find it.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Drive side LH thread, so righty loosey, non drive side, RH thread, so lefty loosey. Hope your BB shaft is serviceable as Woosh don't have any, it's an odd size 156mm, I think. If you need one, you can convert the BB to sealed bearings. Claude told me a supply in US, I will try and find it.

Thanks for your help!
Ill try getting it off now and see whats inside. Sounds like a pain to order parts from the US but wisper said they had parts in the UK I presume.


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[Chris Maluszynski]

Ok, I've been pounding on it with a screwdriver and back of an axe for half an hour now. Nothing except cuts in the metal. The tool I bought for the job was completely useless - something like 8 inches arm on it. So I gotta ask again - is it definitely drive side: right to loosen? are there any other tricks I can try? Or should I just get a new bike?

 

[wheeliepete]

Yes, LH thread on the drive side, so undo clockwise. A good soaking in penetrating oil may help. Applying heat around the area is also worth a try. If you are struggling with the lock ring, then you may need the help of a bike shop, or someone with the appropriate tools.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Im still struggling with the ring but have now ordered a hot air gun to see if that helps. However - even if I get the ring off, the next step is the BB itself. Where do I find a tool to get this kind of (see image)

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[Nealh]

Im still struggling with the ring but have now ordered a hot air gun to see if that helps. However - even if I get the ring off, the next step is the BB itself. Where do I find a tool to get this kind of (see image)
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Not familiar with the BB, however the lock ring affair looks similar to the Bafang BBS mid drive.
Most BB's are either threaded in or use outer threaded bearings in your case the lock ring is threaded on to the protruding BB thread so does look as it should just slide or tap out.
You won't know this until the lock ring and what looks like a pas fitting to the frame are removed.

Also slop penetrating oil around the area over night to aid removal.

Lock ring tool though will need some extra heavy duty leverage to budge your rusted one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Bicycle-Bike-Cycle-Bottom-Bracket-Lock-Ring-Tool-15MM-16MM-Spanner-/123436217231

Bafang lock ring tool looks like it is similar fitting.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Installation-Spanner-Tool-for-Bafang-8Fun-BBS01-BBS02-and-BBSHD-Electric-Bikes/283029843305?hash=item41e5e4ad69:g:gPcAAOSwR7Bbfugo:rk:1:pf:1

Or if replacing the whole unit and don't need the lock ring use a pair of heavy Stilson's or Mole grips to loosen. If the lock ring is M33 thread then you can use a BBS one.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Finally! Used tons of chemicals and bought a hot air gun. Back of my axe for another half hour and I got the rings off! But now what?

Tried tapping on the bottom bracket but it’s not popping out. How hard should I “tap”? Isn’t the star shaped insert meant to fit a bottom bracket removal tool? But the tool shop I went to didn’t have this shape...


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[wheeliepete]

Looking at the corrosion around your bottom bracket it's not going to pop out very easily. The "inserts" are not done up tight, hence the lock rings you have removed, but they can be really difficult to get moving, esp. without the right tools. BTW, they unscrew the same way as the lock rings. Prob. worth asking Claude (Wisper) about a tool to undo them, or as I suggested before, pop down your bike shop. This is a really common problem that I'm sure they have tackled many times and will have a few tricks they have used before.

If it's of some help these are the components which make up your BB, only you have 2 lock rings and threads on your spindle and not bolts.