Wisper Wisper Bike rack cracked

[oregon]

Perhaps just get some 2 part epoxy metal putty, there are a number of brands jb-weld is well known, mix up a load, its like blu-tak/plasticine Id roll a sausage and poke it into the tubes, perhaps with a nail or screw.

prep the rack tubes with sandpaper and degreasing alcohol or solvent, And add a wrap of putty around the break and its connecting parts, you can sculpt it like clay and you can sand it down for an ultra smooth paintable surface..

just wear gloves, and if you muck up, scrape it off n start again, if it starts to cure (very unlikely it can taake an hour or so to start.. just mix up another dollop

Thank you so much for this suggestion. I will give it a try. How do I put a nail or screw into the mix? Where would it need to be placed? And what size?

I had no idea changing the rack was such a big job in that the controller would need to come off. I dont think that is something I could do, so yes perhaps a repair would be easier.

 

[thelarkbox]

Thank you so much for this suggestion. I will give it a try. How do I put a nail or screw into the mix? Where would it need to be placed? And what size?

Just bear in mind this is my initial approach.. often its my 2nd or 3rd that takes..
just clean out the tubes poking a rag with solvent on to degrease best you can for at least an inch each side..

them roll a sausage of epoxy fold it in on its self and plug up at leas an inch of tube poking in if necessary to ensure its in and solid..leave a little extra on each too.

to re enforce further a 2cm or so length of nail or screw with the head chopped off or bit of steel coal hanger, or the nearest thing on the garage floor in my case , and shove it in about 1/4-1/3 in one side before squishing the two together twisting a cord loop might be needed to squeeze out excess putty and close the gap fully

A solid plug of epoxy is probably stronger than the rack so the nail is optional and only needed if you think the 2 ends need help adjoining.

just be mindful of closing the gap and releasing before clamped tight, if it breaks open stuff more putty in and re squeeze clamp. Edit this is critical, you want a solid plug of resin not 2 plugs..

then once clamped tight smear some round the crack and smooth down for looks..

sanding is best done after a few hours and before fully cured as its solid stuff.

 

[oregon]

OK. So I tried (using this JB Weld Original Cold-Weld 8265-SUK Steel Reinforced Epoxy - Dark Grey (Packaging may vary) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools )

Unfortunately, it didnt work. I let it set for 48 hours and then took the bike out and it immediately just broke apart after just a few minutes.

Going to have to just buy a new rack. Sigh.

 

[chris_n]

You used the wrong stuff, you need epoxy putty not glue (and plenty of it) to make a sausage that can fill both tubes completely for at least 15mm and something in the middle like a screw or tube to give additional support.

 

[matthewslack]

That bend is highly loaded, and simple bodge repairs are not going to work. The load needs taking away from the corner, which can be done using a fairly large triangular support plate.

If you have the tools then you could try this.

I would use aluminium sheet, 2mm thick is probably sufficient. A triangle, mounted on the existing rack mounting bolt, with its top edge roughly horizontal, and the other two edges with a wide margin bent around the rack tube to support it. Ideally bent all the way round with a flange sitting flat on the main part of the triangle, then secured with rivets. Rivets close to the rack tube will squeeze it all nice and tight.

You can buy small amounts of suitable aluminium off Ebay for a few £, and it will be the easy to bend fairly soft variety.

 

[Waspy]

Going to have to just buy a new rack. Sigh.

Did you not see this post?

We can supply the rack from the National Motor Museum this week. Please drop me a line so we can sort out paperwork. David@wisperbikes.com it’s brand new, unmarked and unused.