Hi Straylight!,Not so crazy when you're in a queue of traffic moving slowly to the lights, and you tap the pedals to move forward a couple of feet. It's much more convenient to to use the brake cut-off than switch the electrics off altogether.
I slid the box along the bars so it's close to the left grip, and now the buttons are easy to reach with my left thumb - and I've got small hands. Just slacken the clamp and reposition it.Sorry to hear that, I find as I'm invariably in 'high' pedelec mode, that the surge from the motor is just a little uncontrolled in this situation, and so rely on the brake switches to retain a measure of accuracy.
I would use the high/low settings if the were a bit more accessible to my left thumb, it'd be nice to see this integrated into the unit with the green button at some stage - could be a single button with an LED that toggles the modes. IMO, this would refine the look of the controls, and leave more space on the handlebars for additional lights/computers etc. But I digress wandering somewhat OT....
I have disk at the front and V brakes at the rear, the rear is OK as that requires a lot less pressure. My front is still not great despite a series of improvements, the pull ratio now feels right but the short lever means I can't apply enough pressure.I'll let you know when mine arrive, what are the levers attached to, v-brakes? If so, I've found a significant improvement by switching the blocks to Avids, and also regularly clean the rims to maintain their grip. I'd also check the block alignment to the rim to try and improve things.
There are different pads available but as I don't know what type of pads the bike came with I don't know if a different set will be any better. The extreme ones don't seem to be available, probably as they overheat easily.I don't know much about disc brakes, but is there an alternative pad you can try? I found my Vs improved significantly by switching to aviid blocks, also maybe degrease the discs? Stands to reason though, that with a shorter lever, you'll get less, well, leverage
That would be good as I couldn't reasemble the lever correctly last time I tried. I don't want to try again until I have a lot of spare time, if you have an alternative then I can try that quickly.Hi Mussells
I am in China today at the China Bike show, would you like me to find some longer levers for you? I would be intrerseted to see if the make a big difference.
All the best David
The standard 905 long levers (that I had) were for centre pull brakes so would have had an excellent mechanical advantage, these would be quite different to V brake long levers.As an experiment to improve the braking force of my v-brakes, I've installed the 'Avid Single digit 5' brakes from my Marin in combination with the standard Wisper long levers on the rear wheel. I haven't taken it out yet, but when balancing the brakes I've found a profound difference in A. the force required on the lever (a lot less), and B. the braking effect (when the wheel is spinning quite fast, the brakes stop it dead).
I will report more after a test ride, I think the only issue will be an increased risk of locking the wheel, but this will simply be a matter of self calibration In fact, I was so impressed with the difference that I immediately ordered two pairs of brakes in black (the ones from my Marin are silver - and about a decade old).
Out of interest, as an aside, the Avid levers on the Marin are somewhat shorter than the Wisper's, and also have an adjustment screw on the pivot to set the progressiveness of the braking, so maybe when my new levers arrive, they'll prove to be more compatible, looking forward to seeing the difference I should also add that I'm using Clarkes inserts in Avid RW2 cassetes, as these have proven to be more durable on my marin than the Avid standard blocks (and they're cheaper too! ).