Wisper 905 - servicing and freewheel remover?

[Alex728]

Today I ended up replacing those Kenda tyres on my Wisper - after 880 miles, one had started to fail at the bead (at least I think that is what you call the bit by the rim) - I guess it was already on the way out and just as I got to work there was a loud "hissss" and I saw my tyre rapidly deflating and noticed part of the tyre was bulging out of the rim..

I think its similar to what happened to that Italian dude on the Wisper world tour in either South China or Viet Nam albeit thankfully less spectacular (and not happening when I was going at speed )

Never liked those tyres anyway, although they seem to be standard issue with a lot of e-bikes.

Anyway I've got some Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on - after a fair bit of work though - it was a real bear getting the rear wheel out of the dropouts and then back in again, more so than the Powacycle, as the derailleur seems to get in the way much more (any tips from other 905SE owners on how to make this job less fiddly?)

Was impressed though to find decent rim tape on the wheels..

Thinking ahead, I guess at some point (probably another 1500 miles or so) I will have to start replacing the drive train bits.

How on earth do you remove the freewheel block? On the 2009 model there's a great big plug on the end of the motor - presumably the tool has to go over this? Looks like some sort of custom thing and I can't see any easy way of splitting it into individual connectors either.... this looks like the sort of thing best prepared for rather than being caught out by at last minute...

 

[Straylight]

Hi Alex,

Talk about Suffolk Synchronicity,I've just changed my tyres for Continental Top Contact Winters .

I found that the rear wheel came off a lot easier when I removed the derailer guard thingy first, then undid the wheelnut completely, so both it and the torque washer were clear of the derailer hanger. I don't know how much cable you have before the connector, but on my 2008 it goes all the way to the controller, so I'd plenty of space for the nut to dangle . It does look as though you'd have to remove the pins from the connector in order to remove the nut/washer, and get a freewheel remover on. I believe that Mussels has done this, and said that on his '08 this was quite easy as the pins are held in with little spring clips (I think) - maybe he'll post himself with a more acurate description.

Interestingly enough, my Kendas were as good as new after 2200 miles, so I've kept them for when the weather improves; I know Wisper were taking up the issue of carcas faliures with the manufacturer, so I suppose I've been lucky. I bought the Continentals as there's a lot of mud and standing water round my way, so felt the need for something a bit grippier, and Mussels was prety positive about them - pricey though . Thankfully I've found them to be worth it, the grip is noticably better without gaining too much in the way of roling resistance, and being fairly baloon-like (huge by comparison to the Kendas) have some intergrated suspension - much less vibration through the handlebars (yay!).

 

[Mussels]

Today I ended up replacing those Kenda tyres on my Wisper - after 880 miles, one had started to fail at the bead (at least I think that is what you call the bit by the rim) - I guess it was already on the way out and just as I got to work there was a loud "hissss" and I saw my tyre rapidly deflating and noticed part of the tyre was bulging out of the rim..

I think its similar to what happened to that Italian dude on the Wisper world tour in either South China or Viet Nam albeit thankfully less spectacular (and not happening when I was going at speed )

Never liked those tyres anyway, although they seem to be standard issue with a lot of e-bikes.

Anyway I've got some Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on - after a fair bit of work though - it was a real bear getting the rear wheel out of the dropouts and then back in again, more so than the Powacycle, as the derailleur seems to get in the way much more (any tips from other 905SE owners on how to make this job less fiddly?)

Was impressed though to find decent rim tape on the wheels..

Thinking ahead, I guess at some point (probably another 1500 miles or so) I will have to start replacing the drive train bits.

How on earth do you remove the freewheel block? On the 2009 model there's a great big plug on the end of the motor - presumably the tool has to go over this? Looks like some sort of custom thing and I can't see any easy way of splitting it into individual connectors either.... this looks like the sort of thing best prepared for rather than being caught out by at last minute...

You need to disconnect the cable from the controller, there are at least two types of connectors. One goes through the freewheel remover and the other (mine) has to be dismantled. You will need a Shimano freewheel removal tool but some won't fit over the Wisper's bigger axle, a search on here should tell you what is needed. If you can't find it I'll see if anything is written on mine.
The problem with the Kenda tyre, I had it three times and each one lasted about 10 days. I hope it is resolved now as Kenda have stronger tyres available.
Get a Shimano replacement freewheel (not cassette) as other brands may not quite be the same. I bought a Suntours freewheel as it had a slightly smaller top gear but I've now found that shifting doesn't work properly and I've now ordered a Shimano one to get it working properly.
As for the rubber plug thing, mine had broken off through crashes long before I came to change the freewheel.

I bought the Continentals as there's a lot of mud and standing water round my way, so felt the need for something a bit grippier, and Mussels was prety positive about them - pricey though .

I'm glad you weren't disappointed, I haven't tried them on ice yet and I'm not convinced they will work as well as full studs.

 

[Straylight]

I'm glad you weren't disappointed, I haven't tried them on ice yet and I'm not convinced they will work as well as full studs.

I thought that the actual number of wintry/icy days as opposed to wet ones in winter was so few as to make studs a bit ott, so I hope they'll prove a good compromise .

 

[inno-cycle]

How on earth do you remove the freewheel block? On the 2009 model there's a great big plug on the end of the motor - presumably the tool has to go over this? Looks like some sort of custom thing and I can't see any easy way of splitting it into individual connectors either.... this looks like the sort of thing best prepared for rather than being caught out by at last minute...

Hello,

You can remove the individual wires from the plug - it's easy enough (you push down on the little clips so that the wires are released), but make sure that you take pictures before disconnecting so that they all go back in the right order (I think there is a wiring diagram available).

We've asked a chap at an engineering company who has done one or two things in the past to have a look at making us a freewheel removal tool that snaps together so that you can do exactly as you said and avoid removing the plug. Norman at Wisper came up with the idea. I'll let you know if we have any joy.

Cheers,

Martin

 

[Mussels]

We've asked a chap at an engineering company who has done one or two things in the past to have a look at making us a freewheel removal tool that snaps together so that you can do exactly as you said and avoid removing the plug. Norman at Wisper came up with the idea. I'll let you know if we have any joy.

Cheers,

Martin

Without going to check - the freewheel itself has to slide out over the cable so you'll still need to remove the plug or get a snap together freewheel.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Wheels and Tyres

Hi Guys

The Kenda Tyres we have been using for almost a year now are very much better than the originals. Kenda have really got their game together recently and have launched a tyre specifically designed for electric bikes with low rolling resistance and super tough walls, Guim has been using them on his word tour (now in Thailand) and has not had a problems for over 1000 miles. Now they have been tested and we are happy with the quality the Kenda EB tyres will feature on all Wispers. The change last year to to Alex rims also helped enormously in puncture prevention.

Regarding the rear wheel removal, I will ask Norman to post an answer.

All the best David

 

[Straylight]

Hello,
We've asked a chap at an engineering company who has done one or two things in the past to have a look at making us a freewheel removal tool that snaps together so that you can do exactly as you said and avoid removing the plug. Norman at Wisper came up with the idea.
Martin

Thats interesting, as I too toyed with the idea of cutting a standard tool in half, as when in place the freewheel itself would hold the haves together. Having a spanner round the two halves would help too. Sadly I don't have access to the equipment to try this, so will be very interested to hear what your engineer comes up with. Could be the beginning of a specialised range of e-bike tools .

 

[Alex728]

Hello,

You can remove the individual wires from the plug - it's easy enough (you push down on the little clips so that the wires are released), but make sure that you take pictures before disconnecting so that they all go back in the right order (I think there is a wiring diagram available).

there seem to be two different kinds of plugs. The one I have seen pictured on here looked like a white molex-type connector - but the 2009 model is a black plastic multiway connector which looks like something you would find in a car wiring loom - it is impressive but I couldn't see how you could spring the individual connectors from it. (That said as it was well wrapped in heat shrink tubing I didn't want to take this apart as I hadn't got any similar tubing to re-seal it..)

 

[Norman]

905 Freewheel

I thought I should add the following to the advice given in the above posts:

The pins in both type of plug connector can be removed by carefully easing back the locking catches within the plug housing (black 8 way type) or on the pins (5 way type) and sliding the pins out. A small flat bladed jewellers screwdriver normally works OK.

However the catches on the black 8 way connector type do not always spring back into the locked position (its not really designed to be reused) so great care is needed when reassembling as if these catches are not properly engaged with the pins the pins can slip back into the housing which could potentially lead to poor contact and possible overheating.

You also need to check the yellow pin locking inserts are in place in both halves of the connector as without these in place the above catches will not be properly secured.

There should be one of these yellow inserts in each part of the connector (the two inserts are different for the male and female half of the connector).

I keep spares in stock of these yellow inserts as I sometimes find them missing on used bikes.

Also please check the orange sealing gasket is in place and properly located in the controller half of the connector as this can be dislodged preventing the plug from fully engaging. Also likewise the red wire entry seals.

Finally we will be publishing on the website a service bulletin covering these issues along with routine maintenance that we would recommend on these connectors to ensure long term reliabilty.

Norman

Wisper Service
wisper.service@wisperbikes.com
See the whole range @
wisperbikes.com

 

[Alex728]

Finally we will be publishing on the website a service bulletin covering these issues along with routine maintenance that we would recommend on these connectors to ensure long term reliabilty.

Norman

Wisper Service
wisper.service@wisperbikes.com
See the whole range @
wisperbikes.com

I appreciate both yourself and David are probably in China, but any chance of an update on this?

Particularly any pictures would be helpful - My 905SE has already done 2200 miles since I got it in September - although the freewheel looks in reasonable shape still (changed the chain at 1200 miles and am keeping the drivetrain as clean as possible) at some point I am going to have to replace the freewheel. I've already got a replacement and a removal the tool on order, but whilst doing some cleaning and maintenance I had a closer look at the connector (and so I can make a diagram of how the wires go in) and can't work out exactly how you would spring the yellow insert out of the connector!

Unless the freewheel tool in two halves is available this is surely going to fox any mechanic who encounters a e-bike with these Suzhou Bafang motors (the connector seems to be used on all new models)..

 

[flecc]

Unless the freewheel tool in two halves is available this is surely going to fox any mechanic who encounters a e-bike with these Suzhou Bafang motors (the connector seems to be used on all new models)..

Yes, similar on eZee models with the SB motors. I just cut and resoldered the wires on mine to change the freewheel since the five way connector they used didn't allow for easy pin removal. Could be different now they have their own eZee motor.
.

 

[Alex728]

this is a big 8-way connector. with the latch at the top pinouts are

Red (thin cable) / Blue / Green / Yellow (thick cables)
black (thin cable) / Blue / Green / Yellow (thin cables)

so at least that seems logical...

surely someone in China or elsewhere must have encountered this issue - indeed, as the motor is often sold without the rim / spokes/ block, how do they get the block onto the wheels in the first place whilst keeping the connector on the end?

 

[flecc]

I think the bike manufacturer puts them on, since they do vary with makes. I remember seeing SB motors built into wheels as spares but still with bare wires, no connector. Of course the majority market is front wheel motors, so no problem for them.
.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

China

Hi Alex

Yes I have been in China for the last week, fantastic show, saw the new Nu Vinci drive system and the Wisper Kit for the first time. We have also put €700,000 worth of bikes in stock in Shanghai so we can meet tight delivery times.

Lots of new stuff for the 2011 Wisper range including belt drive and a new 720Wh battery, more on that later.

Reading the first email on the thread reminds me to say that the new Kenda tyres have been amazing we have had hardly any issues this year. I saw the new Kenda Electric Bike tyre whilst at the show, superb quality, low rolling resistance great product.

I will send the link to this thread to Norman who will reply soonest.

All the best

David

 

[pl1974]

Hi,

Can anyone advise where I can buy the new Kenda tyres that David refers to.

Just found a bulge appeared in my Wisper rear tyre side wall. Was a bit of a relief as feels like a buckled wheel to ride...

Thanks,

Paul

 

[Stumpi]

Hi,

Can anyone advise where I can buy the new Kenda tyres that David refers to.

Just found a bulge appeared in my Wisper rear tyre side wall. Was a bit of a relief as feels like a buckled wheel to ride...

Thanks,

Paul

Just the same thing happened to me last week. I was convinced I had buckled the wheel until closer inspection. Replaced it with a Schwalbe Marathon and keeping a close eye on the front

 

[Mussels]

Hi,

Can anyone advise where I can buy the new Kenda tyres that David refers to.

Just found a bulge appeared in my Wisper rear tyre side wall. Was a bit of a relief as feels like a buckled wheel to ride...

Thanks,

Paul

The new Kenda tyres are better than the old ones but that means they are on par with most kevlar lines tyres, you won't notice much difference with a similar tye of a different brand.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Kenda Electric bike tyres

Hi

The new tyres are starting to come through now, the beading are has been substantially toughened up and the rolling resistance is lower than on the old tyres. The new style tyres, protected by nylon and Kevlar are already on the 800 series bikes and to date and are proving to very tough, further improvements have been made for 2011.

All the best

David

 

[bill1963]

Hello,

Do we have any diagrams with instructions how to remove the back wheel of wisper 905.

I dont need yet to remove mit but I must be ready.

Thank you

B