will the lcd 3 work with 48v? and 48v with yose/elife shop 350w moter

[footpump]

hello all
I have yose/elife shop 350w 36v rear hub moter lvd3 the supplied 15amp kt controller.
I have ordered the kt 36/48v svpr-17a controller which is the psw one, but ordered through aliexpress

which I expect to arrive in the next couple of days as it has arrived in the uk.

I have the led 890 handlebar unit (36v) which also comes in a (48v) option looking on psw power website for the 17amp controller and associated options , the lcd 3 seems to work with 36 and 48v

now I am assuming running the 36/48v controller which is 17amps 36v,

battery rpm remains the same but more watts supplied by the controller I would see a higher wattage output on the lcd 3 in the 5 pas modes.

what I don't know is could I run it with a 48v battery, and what would be the result ,would the rpm increase even more?

hill climbing more important than speed
and link to a 48v battery that might be ok with above

 

[Nealh]

Lcd3 works with 48v, you will see the watts increase on the display up to about 820w in pas 5.
Wheel speed (rpm) will increase by 25% so expect the yose hub to be about 330 -350rpm.
The winding (rpm) is a bit vague on the details but I did see on Elifeshop (ebay) speeds of 270/280rpm quoted and also 300/320 mentioned for some.
I have used mine at 48v and have had no issues yet, for hills keep in low gear and spin for a higher cadence.
Any decent celled battery will work with continuous 25a rating.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Some LCD3s can work with a lot of different voltages and some can't, so be careful. There's normally some faint etching on the back, which shows the available voltages. One I just looked at is 24v/36v, another is 24v/36v/48v. I've also seen them go as high as 72v.

There is no setting for the voltage. It's an absolute mystery how the LCD decides which battery you have, but there have been instances where it got it wrong, so whichever battery you connect to, make sure that its voltage is unambiguous when you first connect, i.e. don't connect to a fully charged battery nor a fully discharged one.

 

[footpump]

thanks nealh and d8veh my lcd3 shows vertion 3 and is 24/36/48 compatible.

I have 3 36v batteries which I swop between 2 ebikes the 350w above and 250wcd tdz2

knowing I can run the 350w /lcd3/ kt 36v/48 17amp controller set up at 36v.

or 48v is a real bonus, I can see myself possible using my 36v softpack , and then swopping over to a frame mounted 48v battery for more grunt and no doubt more fun.

will have a look at some 48v batteries for consideration.

 

[Nealh]

I have no dedicated 13s/ 48v battery but 3s booster packs that I put in series with my 36v. In series they act as a 48v battery and both parts discharge uniformly, with lower sag then 36v and maintain good power all the time with no lvc issues.
Only down side is another charger albeit quite cheap for 3s.

 

[footpump]

thanks nealh is there a pic or link to 3s booster packs (are they lipos) and how many do I need /how to link to 36v/ and which charger?

 

[anotherkiwi]

thanks nealh is there a pic or link to 3s booster packs (are they lipos) and how many do I need /how to link to 36v/ and which charger?

1 x 3S (10.8v) + 1 x 10S (36v) = 13S (48v) all voltages nominative , peak voltage 54.6v

They can be LiPo, in that case you need a LiPo charger. Or you could weld up a booster pack from 18650 cells in which case you would need a 12.6v 2A charger.

 

[Nealh]

I spot welded 3s packs by reutilising cells from my 13Ah Samsung 26F 3yr old battery, wired up a £4 3s bms and a cheap 3s 1a charger off ebay.