Will LEDs inside 12V switches burn out at 36V?

guerney

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matthewslack

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Thinking of getting dual handlebar switches to solder to my 36V ebike battery, for lights via a blade fuse. Does anyone know if the LEDs inside these 12V switches, will burn out at 36V?

If you can get at the led then you can add a series resistor to protect them. You need to drop 24V at a few mA, something like 2.2K for 10 mA, or start with 10K if you want to be cautious.
 
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guerney

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StuartsProjects

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Does anyone know if the LEDs inside these 12V switches, will burn out at 36V?
Probably, in approximate terms you would probably be running the LEDs at 3 times the normal current.

To be sure you would need to measure how much current is being drawn at 12V.

Once you know that you could work out a value, and power rating, for a series resistor.
 
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guerney

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Thank you StuartsProjects, that's sounds a good methodical approach. Given that I need the switches to retain their waterproofing, which might be compromised by my disassembling them, I'll get the switches without LEDs. They'd look distracting on my handlebar at night anyway, plus I fear neither my eyesight nor my soldering skills are up to the task of successfully completing such a tiny soldering job.
 
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StuartsProjects

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My own eBike also has 12V lights.

I use a small & cheap (circa £3) switch mode LM2596HV converter, 36V in 12V out, it does not get hot ....... and is more power efficient than a resistor.
 
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guerney

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My own eBike also has 12V lights.

I use a small & cheap (circa £3) switch mode LM2596HV converter, 36V in 12V out, it does not get hot ....... and is more power efficient than a resistor.
Wow that's inexpensive and looks useful; bookmarked. I was looking at something like this, but my bike frame is small and there's not a lot of room, plus now many more lights suitable for ebikes seem to operate 6v-80v. I might still get one to power a beer fridge, although that might have to go in the trailer.

 

guerney

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My own eBike also has 12V lights.

I use a small & cheap (circa £3) switch mode LM2596HV converter, 36V in 12V out, it does not get hot ....... and is more power efficient than a resistor.
What housing did you use for that? There are a few interesting looking 12V red 100mw car lasers on AliExpress. Rather a lot of quite interesting and diverse devices available in 12v-24v.
 

StuartsProjects

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What housing did you use for that? There are a few interesting looking 12V red 100mw car lasers on AliExpress. Rather a lot of quite interesting and diverse devices available in 12v-24v.
The controller and all the spare cables are in a bag by the handlebars.

The 12V converter is in there, covered in heat shring film. As its a switched mode converter its very efficient at energy conversion so dissipates maybe only 10% of what the Headlight and tailight use, so no problem covering it in heatshrink film.
 
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Bonzo Banana

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If you have a 36V battery and 12V lights then can't you just run them in series to match voltage. I'm curious though is a 12V switch with a LED an active component i.e. you could have a 12V LED switch and two 12V main lights (front and back) and connect them to a 36V battery in series. I'm assuming you can't do this as the switch will be configured not to drop the voltage in series somehow. I'm guessing a little bit of experimenting with a multimeter or an online circuit tester might give you some answers. Here is a circuit for 48V (as I couldn't find one for 36V) but you get the idea. So you could have lets say a 36V connection powering two 12V front lights and 1 12V rear light in series without issues and no additional components required as long as you want everything on at the same time which you would do with lights. So if you don't need to use resistors you save yourself the small power loss there.

when you see LED lights that say compatible with 36-60V do they actually have a circuit inside to convert to optimal voltage or simply operate with more intensity the higher the voltage? You get many LED torches that have multiple brightness levels and simply control voltage to the LED assembly, sometimes it looks like different LEDs but other times its the same LED with greater intensity.

 
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guerney

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If you have a 36V battery and 12V lights then can't you just run them in series to match voltage. I'm curious though is a 12V switch with a LED an active component i.e. you could have a 12V LED switch and two 12V main lights (front and back) and connect them to a 36V battery in series. I'm assuming you can't do this as the switch will be configured not to drop the voltage in series somehow. I'm guessing a little bit of experimenting with a multimeter or an online circuit tester might give you some answers. Here is a circuit for 48V (as I couldn't find one for 36V) but you get the idea. So you could have lets say a 36V connection powering two 12V front lights and 1 12V rear light in series without issues and no additional components required as long as you want everything on at the same time which you would do with lights. So if you don't need to use resistors you save yourself the small power loss there.

when you see LED lights that say compatible with 36-60V do they actually have a circuit inside to convert to optimal voltage or simply operate with more intensity the higher the voltage? You get many LED torches that have multiple brightness levels and simply control voltage to the LED assembly, sometimes it looks like different LEDs but other times its the same LED with greater intensity.

All good points. I have no idea what circuitry these lights contain, but I've got these two front lights already in parallel on one handlebar switch:

12V-80V on handlebar


12V-48V on fork


...and I'm about to add another of the first headlight listed above to the back, after shoving a couple of sheets of red heat-resistant acetate film behind the lens (rather helpfully, the front unscrews). This third light needs to be independently switched, to enable toggling between three modes for safety and rozzer harassment avoidance reasons (it will be an extremely bright rear light! :eek:), so I've just ordered this LED-less switch which is narrow enough to fit on my already crowded handlebar.


It'll arrive in about 2 weeks. Hopefully I'll have prepared everything else for fitting by then.
 

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