will i make it!

[Deleted member 4366]

The 48v 20aH battery will be too big to fit in the triangle of most frames. If you can charge at work, get the small battery, your bike will be more pleasant to ride. Weight on the back isn't a problem. You need to get the battery tucked in right behind the seatpost for best handlinglike this:

 

[sil4ps]

The 48v 20aH battery will be too big to fit in the triangle of most frames. If you can charge at work, get the small battery, your bike will be more pleasant to ride. Weight on the back isn't a problem. You need to get the battery tucked in right behind the seatpost for best handlinglike this:

hi d8veh

when you say get the smaller battery do you mean the 48v15 or the 36v15 or 20a.

i agree the bike should be pleasant to ride.

ive ordered the 48v 20 which is only 1 kg heavier than the 48v 15

does the wrapped battery fit onto the rack. it seems unfinished like it needs to go in something. What carrier can fit so close to the saddle. ive seen seatpost racks but weight is very limited. where would the controller fit.
the 48v 15a seems to slot into the rack supplied and is in a case
and the controller can fit in the case i think.

who sells battery bags. cant find them on bms.

anyone ever used a seatpost rack, they say weight limit 10kg which would take the 7kg battery.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Get one of this type of football boot bag. You put the side with the logo on downwards so that the bag is just a plain colour. You can get them in different colours. Have a look in your local sports shop, but this type are the best.
Celtic Official Black Boot Bag Shoe Bag Football Gift | eBay
Make a rack like this:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/14308-how-make-rack-battery.html
With the bag above, you can fix a velcro strap or two to the plywood to stop the battery from bouncing and a panel-mount charge socket underneath. Here's a photo. The main part of the bag is unzipped and hanging off behind the battery. The lis with the logo is underneath the plywood:

 

[103Alex1]

... and don't even try to get away with a seatpost mounted rack. Either the rack or your seatpost will wind up wrecked inside a short time on anything but good road conditions. A few bumps and it'll end in tears. Plenty of instances of this reported here and on ES with less weight involved.

For e.g. here : http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bike-conversion-kits/15822-kit-now-trek-4300-a.html

 

[sil4ps]

... and don't even try to get away with a seatpost mounted rack. Either the rack or your seatpost will wind up wrecked inside a short time on anything but good road conditions. A few bumps and it'll end in tears. Plenty of instances of this reported here and on ES with less weight involved.

For e.g. here : http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bike-conversion-kits/15822-kit-now-trek-4300-a.html

alex, had a feeling that might be the case.

cheers for the advice.

 

[103Alex1]

alex, had a feeling that might be the case.

cheers for the advice.

No probs. Just thought about something else - if you are going to be bringing charger to bike at work then buy an extra charger now. Carrying one charger back and forth for use at home and at work isn't such a good idea as they often don't take well to being carted about so much.

 

[sil4ps]

No probs. Just thought about something else - if you are going to be bringing charger to bike at work then buy an extra charger now. Carrying one charger back and forth for use at home and at work isn't such a good idea as they often don't take well to being carted about so much.

Alex, Good thinking!!! However I have changed my order 4 times now, sent 3 payments so i'm concerned about changing it again.

looking at the chargers, the 48v 20ah comes with a 240watt charger, can i get one in the uk or should i get one for 30 bucks and chance changing my order again!!!!! would the 400W be a much quicker charger??

thanks alex.

mal

 

[sil4ps]

torque and drop outs

could anyone advise the best type of dropout for the rear cst motor if i was to change my frame,

my current frame has verticle drops and i'm looking at replacing with either of the 2 in the picture,

the horizontal slide in dropouts seem better to me with regards to torque if the wheel was to slip and easier to adjust, is that correct!

thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Three times the cost in the UK - if you can find one!

 

[sil4ps]

Three times the cost in the UK - if you can find one!

Ok will order one.

thanks

 

[103Alex1]

There's no need to change your frame. My bike has vertical dropouts and it's absolutely fine provided you fit the torque arm(s).

 

[sil4ps]

frame

There's no need to change your frame. My bike has vertical dropouts and it's absolutely fine provided you fit the torque arm(s).

Hi Alex, my frame is an alloy specialised and is a good few years old, i was looking at changing it to a steel frame purely for strength and durability with the extra 15+kg on the back. I have bought the torque arms so will give the alloy frame a go.

a new frame would have rear disc mounts which mine does'nt have.

 

[103Alex1]

The motor is about 4.5kg, controller about 500g = 5kg. Adding the battery is about +7kg = 12kg total.

I have my battery and controller built into the frame but usually ride with about 10kg of gear & 'provisions' on my rack in addition = 15kg + rack. The frame is lightweight aluminium. Got no concerns at all about strength and durability of the frame - it was 6 years old when I fitted the kit and I'll hazard it'll still be going strong when the electrics finally die. An alloy frame is just as strong as aluminium so I wouldn't buy a steel frame out of fear that the frame isn't up to it.

If you fancy a new frame that's another matter ! On the disc brakes can you not get adaptors for that if you want to fit them on the rear ?

Wiggle | A2Z Universal Disc Mount | Brake Spares

You'd need disc brake compatible forks if you want them on the front.

 

[sil4ps]

The motor is about 4.5kg, controller about 500g = 5kg. Adding the battery is about +7kg = 12kg total.

I have my battery and controller built into the frame but usually ride with about 10kg of gear & 'provisions' on my rack in addition = 15kg + rack. The frame is lightweight aluminium. Got no concerns at all about strength and durability of the frame - it was 6 years old when I fitted the kit and I'll hazard it'll still be going strong when the electrics finally die. An alloy frame is just as strong as aluminium so I wouldn't buy a steel frame out of fear that the frame isn't up to it.

If you fancy a new frame that's another matter ! On the disc brakes can you not get adaptors for that if you want to fit them on the rear ?

Wiggle | A2Z Universal Disc Mount | Brake Spares

You'd need disc brake compatible forks if you want them on the front.

Hi Alex, yep that would sort my disc issue at the back, great stuff, will do that instead.

One thing i'm sure we covered but can't find the thread, I bought the CST bafang 36V rear wheel and there is no problem running it at 48V with the s12p controller, Thats it.

thanks. mal.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One thing i'm sure we covered but can't find the thread, I bought the CST bafang 36V rear wheel and there is no problem running it at 48V with the s12p controller, Thats it.

thanks. mal.

I'm not sure if that's a question or a statement. If it's a question, the answer's yes. You have to select "48v" in the LCD settings. If you use the LED display, you need the 48v version.

 

[sil4ps]

I'm not sure if that's a question or a statement. If it's a question, the answer's yes. You have to select "48v" in the LCD settings. If you use the LED display, you need the 48v version.

Hi D8veh,

yes it was a question, thanks i will make sure i get the 48v lcd, much appreciated.

regards

mal.

 

[sil4ps]

everything i need

Hi D8veh,

yes it was a question, thanks i will make sure i get the 48v lcd, much appreciated.

regards

mal.

Hi,

i'm now waiting for my kit to arrive in anticipation, however from what i have read i will need extra spacers, washers etc and other bits and pieces to finish off the installation,

Can anyone recommend what and where i can buy in terms of small bit and pieces that i may or may not need but will come in very handy to have when the kit arrives to save faffing about when i want to get out and ride!!!

forewarned is forearmed so to speak.

thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The only things you need are:
Soldering iron and solder from Maplin or Ebay
Cable-ties and/or some of that spiral cable tidy stuff from tat shops or £1 shops
Two special M12 washers and one or two standard washers from an engineering supplier or Ebay

If you have a rear disc brake, you need a 180mm rotor and caliper adaptor.

The special washers have the hole size of a 12mm washer and the outside diameter of the 10mm one, so you can either file the hole of a 10mm one, or file the O/D of the 12mm one. If you're lucky, you might find some already that size because they do exist - 12mm hole with 20mm O/D. They should be fitted on the free-wheel side to stop the free-wheel being clamped when you tighten the axle nuts. if you have a thin free-wheel, you might not need them. The standard washers are to line up the disc with the caliper. You start your spacing from that side. The anti-rotation washers go on the inside of the drop-outs. You normally need one 12mm washer behind one to get the disc right. Once you have the washers in place and the wheel nipped up in the drop-outs, you need to check whether the rim is central, and dish it accordingly.

If you didn't order the spoke key from BMSB, you can get a similar one from Ebay

Bike Bicycle Cycle Spoke Wheel Spanner Wrench Nipple Key Adjuster Rim Tool New | eBay

Spiral Wrap Cable Binding Tidy Leads on TV / PC / Home Cinema / CCTV Many Sizes | eBay

 

[sil4ps]

The only things you need are:
Soldering iron and solder from Maplin or Ebay
Cable-ties and/or some of that spiral cable tidy stuff from tat shops or £1 shops
Two special M12 washers and one or two standard washers from an engineering supplier or Ebay

If you have a rear disc brake, you need a 180mm rotor and caliper adaptor.

The special washers have the hole size of a 12mm washer and the outside diameter of the 10mm one, so you can either file the hole of a 10mm one, or file the O/D of the 12mm one. If you're lucky, you might find some already that size because they do exist - 12mm hole with 20mm O/D. They should be fitted on the free-wheel side to stop the free-wheel being clamped when you tighten the axle nuts. if you have a thin free-wheel, you might not need them. The standard washers are to line up the disc with the caliper. You start your spacing from that side. The anti-rotation washers go on the inside of the drop-outs. You normally need one 12mm washer behind one to get the disc right. Once you have the washers in place and the wheel nipped up in the drop-outs, you need to check whether the rim is central, and dish it accordingly.

If you didn't order the spoke key from BMSB, you can get a similar one from Ebay

Bike Bicycle Cycle Spoke Wheel Spanner Wrench Nipple Key Adjuster Rim Tool New | eBay

Spiral Wrap Cable Binding Tidy Leads on TV / PC / Home Cinema / CCTV Many Sizes | eBay

Hi D8veh,

many thanks for all the info,

So standard washers will be M12 and the specials will be m12 with a 20mm outside diameter, have i got that right?? can't see any one ebay at the mo but i found washers M12 x 20mm x 2mm thick http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_Washer_M12.html, will they do.

I presume the anti rotation washers will come with the wheel??


will be great to have everything ready for when it arrives. i have everything else.

I have V brakes at the moment, Alex showed me a universal disc mount for my frame, will see how it goes as the v brakes are good, i've never used discs on a bicycle.

So presumably if i have no disc then i just need the special washers as there is no disc to line up but will get spare washers to make sure.

I have bought the spoke key and can dish it if need be.

much appreciated. Will let you know when i have all the bits and i'm sitting there scratching my head.

thanks

mal

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Those washers will be ok. You can use then instead of the standard washers of course too.

V brakes means one less thing to worry about on the axle, but dishing accuracy becomes more important if you don't want lop-sided brakes.

V brakes are ok for non-electric bikes, which barely go over 12 mph, but for a heavy 20 mph + bike, you really want hydraulic discs at least on the front. If you don't have a disc mount on your forks, it's probably worth upgrading them to something like Rockshox Darts, which you can find on Ebay cheap enough. No need to panic though. Put them on your Xmas list.