Will bafang brake sensor work with GSM kit?

Nixtoo

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Jan 30, 2016
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i've install the brake levers that came with my GSM, but don't really like the look of them. I've seen that bafang sell a sensor that can be retrofitted to existing levers. Would the plug that goes to the lcd be the same? The GSM one is red with two pins.
 

Nealh

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No. Bafang is 3 pin.
 

Nixtoo

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I've dismantled one of the originals, it's a pressure switch. Need to figure out a way to use it.
 

Nealh

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I have done the same mounted the switch on the brake body and a small brass block on the lever, mine is quite sensitive and activates as soon as the lever moves. I used the head of a pin from a std house plug as a tapped or wire hole is already in place then drill tap a hole in the lever.

Found some pics;
DSCF0127.JPG DSCF0129.JPG DSCF0130.JPG
 
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Nixtoo

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Thought I might try sugru, not sure if it'll be hard enough when set, but easy to use.
 

Nealh

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For what it is Sugru is expensive for the amount you get and next time you get it out of the fridge to use you have to bin it because it's set, even after carefully cling filming. Once the foil is opened the process of setting has begun.
 

anotherkiwi

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My question is do you need a brake cut out on a GSM? My hub motor stops providing power almost instantly.
 

trex

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you don't with HDBs if you don't use the throttle.
The stopping power of HDBs is sufficient.
These people have HDB sensors with red (2-pin) connectors:

http://wing-ebikes.co.uk/?page_id=3002

 
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Nixtoo

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Jan 30, 2016
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I've only got vbrakes, I was told that the motor sometimes doesn't cut out instantly, so I've just installed one cut out on the rear brake. The levers supplied are very basic with little adjustment. So ideally like to up grade. Once I've ridden it a bit more I may feel more confident to remove the cut out all together.
At that point I've love a cable without all the extra unused connectors too!
 

Nealh

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GSM does have override, so cut outs needed.
 

anotherkiwi

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Doesn't override depend on the controller and PAS set-up?

My hub motor continues to spin clutch engaged for a short time (because of RPM I guess) after the power is cut but it isn't pushing the bike forward it slows with the bike and the inertia of a couple of kilos of spinning magnets is a small percentage of the total weight. The clutch quickly disengages also.

Rather than brake switches I have planned a "kill switch" button on the handlebars which can also be used for gear changes without "blipping" the brakes which I don't find natural. A real clutch lever like on a motorbike would be great but where would the second brake lever go...
 

trex

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left and right kill switches?
 

anotherkiwi

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Left, gear shift is on the right.

So that I can press it while squeezing the front brake lever also.
 

trex

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the switch in the lever is temporary push to break (normally closed type). When the lever is at rest, the switch is pushed by the lever, the circuit is open between the two pins in the red connector (signal and ground). When you pull the lever, the circuit is closed, connecting the signal pin to the ground pin.
If you want to replace it with a reed switch, you should select a SPDT reed switch, easier to install.
 

trex

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I should think so. Those plugs are widely used on e-bikes. Yellow plug: 3 pins, red plug: 2-pins.
 

anotherkiwi

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How will you do it? The switch that comes with the levers is a pressure switch?
I have bought a "horn" button which I will solder to the two wire red plug. If it doesn't work out I still have the option of modifying my Magura hydraulic brake lever to accept the brake cut off switch. Modified brake levers will always look better than the ones supplied with the kit and also weigh about half the weight...
 

anotherkiwi

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I should think so. Those plugs are widely used on e-bikes. Yellow plug: 3 pins, red plug: 2-pins.
Do you have a source for Julet plugs trex? Even with a wire pigtail.
 

trex

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no, you can just buy a spare set of brake levers from woosh (for about £3) and cannibalize the brake lever to recover the tail.