Why can't you derestrict a Whisper 905e?

[Mandy]

On the 905SE, the restrictor is on grey wires as per this pic. On my 905SE, I removed it entirely (on the SE it's connected by a block connector), thus rendering the easily knocked green de-restrict button on the left handlebar redundant. I also by-passed the red pedelec on/off switch at the controller end and then removed the entire switch assembly from the handlebars.

Well Done James, looks like great advice Genuine and not sarcastic view
Mandy

 

[Alan]

You could actually fit a new controller if yours does not have the resistor. I received a Wisper controller today from the manufacturer.... only £20 delievered by airmail.

Hi Jimmy,

I have a whisper 905 that has stopped working & I am fairly sure that it is the controller that is causing the problem. There are no signs of burning or damage within it, however it isn't outputting anything to the motor, even with the brake micro-switches disconnected.

I have been looking for a replacement but without luck. Could you possibly pass on the manufacturers details that you gave to David back in March, because I am stuck at the moment.

Thanks Alan.

 

[flecc]

Hi Alan

I'm afraid James (jimmyengland1000) left the forum last April and may well not see your post.

I can only suggest you contact Doug Gosling or David Miall at Wisperbike to see if they can let you have that information. Try Doug first as he is currently available:

doug.gosling@wisperbikes.com

david@wisperbike.com

P.S. I see you've just joined the forum, a warm welcome to you.
.

 

[SEATALTEA]

Welcome to the 20mph club Wisperers, the Mistral will do this with ease but a smaller cog is needed to get past 23mph and with the throttle open/pedelec engaged you are fighting fighting the motor from 21-23.

I find turning electrical assistance off when I reach higher speeds on the flat is the way to go, the bike has greater momentum brought on by it's weight and maintains a high average speed with the odd twist of the throttle.

 

[frank9755]

Alan,
I'm pretty sure Jimmy got his from a well-known eBay seller called Kewin, whose eBay alias is eCrazyman. If you go to eBay and search for electric bike controllers you'll track him down. Send him an email saying you want a Suzhou Bafang controller for a 36v motor and I'm sure he'll be able to help!

 

[Alan]

Thanks very much for the replies, I will follow up the information given.

This is the first electrical problem I have had with the Wisper; the previous bike, an Eco-Brand was an electrical nightmare. Wires pulled from the micro-switches because the cables were too tight, a broken start switch, the prong connections smashed in by the weight of the battery bouncing around on it, water in the control unit & pedal sensor, a blown fuse...

I have been using electric bikes for over 2 years now and had forgotten how slow and how much hard work a normal bike can be (especially when there is a strong wind blowing in your face). I also now feel extremely vulnerable on the road. Just pulling out of junctions or moving out to pass a parked car just seems that much more risky.

Thanks again.

 

[mart.hart]

Well it worked - and how !.

I made the mods as per Jimmy's instructions (simple - just disconnect the small 'pot'). I needed a little bit of help from Jimmy to identify the wires - his were grey and mine were blue. I was just looking for a little bit more assistance in pedelec mode to offset the 'drag' effect of the battery / motor / gearing as the assistance cuts out at around 14-15 MPH as most of my cyling on the flat seems to be at around 14-15-16 MPH (headwind permitting). Well I got that and I can tell that the motor is still there at 16 now ... and then I tried the throttle - 20 mph is easily achievable pedalling with the throttle fully open on the flat.

Can't help feeling that my 40+ miles on one battery charge will suffer though . Still, so long as I can still achieve 17 miles to work all will be OK. (hopefully I'll be fine if I keep off the throttle).

Thanks again Jimmy and if anyone is thinking about making the same mod I can say that is is effective (just make sure you get the right wires - piccy below:

)

My bike is just like that 2 blue wires and a cross head plastic screw at the end
How do you disconect it-just cut the wires ?
Thanks
Mart

 

[PaulBarnes]

Deristrict my SL30ZB

I think you'll find that the controller has a variable resistor in the speed restrict circuit. Two grey wires with a little white, crossheaded gadget on the end. You just remove the resistor completely. If you take pix of the controller (which lives under the battery) and e-mail me them, I'll point out the bit and return the photo to you. I can also e-mail you a circuit diagram.......

You could actually fit a new controller if yours does not have the resistor. I received a Wisper controller today from the manufacturer.... only £20 delievered by airmail. If you message me, I'll send you a photo with the resistor pointed out. Then you can see if you have one on your 905e and remove it. I can't remember if my 905e had one but my SE certainly did until I removed it. My bike is now permanently de-restricted.

You'll only get about 16-17mph on the flat from a derestricted 905E. With pedalling and throttle full on, then you'll get 20mph+ easily In pedelec mode though, about 16 or 17mph.

Hi I get my first Electric folding bike on Friday. Its a sunlova SL300ZB
See it on E-Bay by searching for SL300ZB .
It has a 36 volt battery and a 250 watt motor. On the photos I think I see the regulator under the seat and just above the pedals on the seat post?
Do you think I can open it and find the resistor you speak of to cut out / or bypass? and what will it do for me you see as I am 16 stone I suspect the top speed will not achieve 15mph but deristricted I hope to get 16 perhaps 18 mph? and this will be OK but 15 falling to say 12 with my weight will not be good.
I have another question...I was going to get a different model with a 200 watt motor and a 24 volt battery However I have decided on this SL300ZB with 250 watt motor and 36 volts. Am I right in thinking this will be the better one. NOT faster I know but with more grunt that I need due to my weight. Another reason is I have no pedal power in my legs isdue to artritis in my knees.
I have to have a folding bike and all aloy so I can get it in the car.
As this bike is new I guess I will invalidate the guarantee BUT if I mess up Did you say a new controller is just 20 pounds? Thanks Paul

 

[flecc]

Very unlikely Paul. There are many different controllers used on different makes, and the chances of your's being exactly the same as one used by a major manufacturer is small. In fact it's most likely that your bike is not restricted in the first place, motors in 20" wheels usually just run to the rev limits set by the supply voltage, indeed many full size bikes are like that too.

You'll probably find that when the battery is freshly charged the bike will run on it's motor to a maximum speed which will gradually reduce as the battery empties. If you find yours is like that, starting at say 16 mph with a full battery but ending up a one or two mph slower with the battery emptying, it's not restricted, so cannot be derestricted. Restricted bikes maintain their maximum speed constant throughout the battery usage.

The only way to make a non-restricted bike run to higher speeds is with a higher voltage battery and controller to suit.
.

 

[Ali Bongo]

Brilliant, I had a bike that was limited to 4mph. I disconnected the grey connector and now its upto the UK limit. Thanks