Which kit for Raleigh DL-1?

[MikelBikel]

Ok, deep breath. I have 2x Raleigh DL-1's from 1946-1954 period and have a hankering to put an electric conversion on one of them. Trouble is they are an odd size, 635-22 westwood wheels, 110mm horizontal rear Over locknut dimension OLD, 90mm front.
The LBS can't true the rear wheel because the spokes are seized. And linear rod brakes are scary at speed (downhill). So I was thinking of going with 622-19 hub braked wheels, which makes a motor wheel tricky.
So what would the gurus recommend for an average highway rider ? Motor wheel, Mid motor, Friction! ?
Cheers, Mike

 

[MikelBikel]

Ah, Keyde make some interesting motors, one is 80mm wide, no brake but right width, another has a roller brake but is 100mm wide.
http://www.keyde.com/en/Product/motor/Front_motor/2015/0828/123.html
Oh well, close but no cigar!
Bafang make a Rear Roller brake hub at.. 135mm drat, and a new 3speed rear hub 120mm wide.. but its wound for 14in,16in & 20in wheels with a 9tooth cog, shugar!
Bafang RM G353 – 3 speed hub and shifting components

 

[MikelBikel]

Needs electric zoom zoom. I'm knackered pedaling this to d pub! Phew. (apologies for bumping an old thread, just wondered if anyone else has electriced one of these. Only found 1 account on Google of Bafang BBS conversion by cutting down BB 5mm to 70mm). Slainte. Oh and happy st pats day. Mikel

 

[vfr400]

32 spokes in the front and 40 in the back severely limit your choice of motors. If you have a good wheel builder, it is possible to build a wheel with a 36 hole motor and a 32 hole rim, in which case you could use a Q85 kit from BMSbattery.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Lacing-Bike-Wheel-36-Holes-Hub-to-32-Holes-Rim/

To be honest, I think it would be better to sell the bike as an antique and buy a modern one. It's going to look horrible with wires all over it.

I doubt that a mid motor will fit the BB. Even if it does, you'll lose the chainguard, which gives the bike its character.

One thing that might work is one of those really cheap brush motor kits that clips on to the side of the rear sub-frame. I expect they're pretty horrible compared with modern stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/L-faster-24V36V250W-Electric-Brushes-Conversion/dp/B01CSAJNQG/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=Brushed+motor+ebike+kit&qid=1552847681&s=gateway&sr=8-11

 

[MikelBikel]

32 spokes in the front and 40 in the back severely limit your choice of motors. If you have a good wheel builder, it is possible to build a wheel with a 36 hole motor and a 32 hole rim, in which case you could use a Q85 kit from BMSbattery.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Lacing-Bike-Wheel-36-Holes-Hub-to-32-Holes-Rim/

To be honest, I think it would be better to sell the bike as an antique and buy a modern one. It's going to look horrible with wires all over it.

I doubt that a mid motor will fit the BB. Even if it does, you'll lose the chainguard, which gives the bike its character.

One thing that might work is one of those really cheap brush motor kits that clips on to the side of the rear sub-frame. I expect they're pretty horrible compared with modern stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/L-faster-24V36V250W-Electric-Brushes-Conversion/dp/B01CSAJNQG/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=Brushed+motor+ebike+kit&qid=1552847681&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Thanks for the advice, hadn't thought to count the spokes. Had considered 'easy option' of a 700c front motor wheel, albeit black & silver alloy, and 'touring' fork with v-brake mountings for my other DL-1 which is rougher than this one, and therefore ok to mod. But then front motor wheel wouldn't match a new rear coaster braked 3speed wheel available in silver, heho. (3sp is only one skinny enough to fit 110mm OLD rear)

Story i read gave no details of how chaincase was cut about to cover Bafang BBS, wish i had a pic of it to post.

If those 'Hidden Power' friction drives, mounted under the BB, were really any good more people would use them as more convenient.

You're right, it would be easier just to get an electric lookalike, like Gazelle or Cortina, as with any conversion.

Cheers, Mikel

 

[vfr400]

Your brakes won't work with an ebike mote wheel because the rim is the wrong shape. You either have to cut the rim off your existing wheel or buy a similar one from Ebay, then lace whichever to the motor.

 

[MikelBikel]

Your brakes won't work with an ebike mote wheel because the rim is the wrong shape. You either have to cut the rim off your existing wheel or buy a similar one from Ebay, then lace whichever to the motor.

You're right, new v-brakes on a new touring fork would require a motor wheel with rim braking surfaces, which they have. Ready made alloy motor wheel kit rims tend to come in black i find. To match and stay original both would have to be custom built with polished alloy or chrome or stainless steel westwood rims that are apparently available. Don't know if I want to build up speed with only rod brakes, now if there was a motor wheel with a hub or roller brake, or do a disc brake DL-1, heresy! hehe. Cheers. Mikel

 

[MikelBikel]

Ah, it was a Pashley, not a Raleigh, that had Bafang BBS conversion. He dispensed with the chaincase, and it appears to have front hub brake, rear coaster brake, with the battery under front basket on carrier.

 

[vfr400]

I'm not sure you got what I meant by the rims being the wrong shape. Your brakes clamp in the radial direction. Modern rim brakes clamp in the axial direction, so you need a specific vintage rim that has the braking surface in the right place.

Might be this one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-BICYCLE-28-x-1-WESTWOOD-RIM-32-HOLE/320941912775?hash=item4ab9a0f2c7:g:YHMAAOSwpDdVWh1A&redirect=mobile

 

[MikelBikel]

https://electricbikereview.com/forum/threads/step-thru.15620/page-7. Found the link to that converted Pashley with BBS01 conversion.

 

[greenspark]

View attachment 29532Ah, it was a Pashley, not a Raleigh, that had Bafang BBS conversion. He dispensed with the chaincase, and it appears to have front hub brake, rear coaster brake, with the battery under front basket on carrier.

I know this thread is older (2017-19) but I came across it today (2021). I'm the guy who did the above conversion. I also converted a 1951 Raleigh DL-1 using a mid-mount BBS02 motor.

Here is one DL-1 I did - battery on the back in a military surplus bag

And another Raleigh DL-1, battery on the front in a leather bag I made

Currently I am riding a Bella Ciao with a Dedacciai steel frame and a 750W BBSHD motor.

I began with a premade eBike, an Italian Greenspark in 2011. 180W Bafang hub motor, asian frame, Italian sexy look, but unimpressive. Poorly made, it eventually fell apart.

I then started buying kits. First hub kit was a gutless Cute 100 on a Globe Live 1. Battery was problematic. Lesson one, if you buy from China, buy from em3v.com. Getting support from Chinese vendors was difficult and the products were just badly made.

So next I went to the other extreme, an em3ev.com 1000 watt MAC rear hub motor on a Gary Fisher hardtail - so powerful I knew it would kill me one day, so I sold it.

Tried a few MAC motors sold by Paul Lynch of em3ev.com, the Englishman in China, until one day I was at the Bafang factory in Suzhou and they invited me to test their brand new BBS01 - serial number one.

It was quiet and it worked with the gears. I was hooked. They sent me serial number 17 to test for six months, after which I put together a buying group and we bought 27 motors with batteries from em3ev.com. I also convinced Paul to try out the Bafang and introduced him to Yong, the English speaking European rep. Prior to that Paul had found Bafang to be uncooperative, but in China its all about who you know.

Our buying group took delivery in 2014 and we had an installation day, putting these midmount motors on every bike imaginable, including a Pedersen.

Here is a Velorbis we did that day. Battery zip-tied to the frame. Still there 8 years later.

And a 1980's Gazelle (later I had the frame powder-coated to match the dress guard). Battery in the front bag.

Now in 2021, most of the batteries are worn out - I have two still running, but most of the motors are still going strong.

The ebike business has boomed since 2011, but so far, I have not encountered a factory-made ebike that can match the classic steel bikes still made in Europe. Thus, I'm still an advocate for kits.

 

[MikelBikel]

And a 1980's Gazelle.

.. but most of the motors are still going strong..
.. but so far, I have not encountered a factory-made ebike that can match the classic steel bikes still made in Europe. Thus, I'm still an advocate for kits.

Nice work, in right place at right time.. +1

A steel frame will outlast any alloy frame as they dont suffer from fatigue (apart from Bromptons :-( ).. +2

Those wide, cream tyres go well with a black frame.. +3

Step-thru frames get my vote, keeps out of my way. With dropper post for shorter people.. +4

A Back pedal brake TSDZ with a 3sp hub is minimal for rear.
Double pivot caliper on front if fork can be drilled thru? (only a hole in back for mudguard).
And a 'silverfish'/bottle battery clamped on seat tube?

 

[Johnnyone]

I’ve got an early 80s 3 speed Raleigh Courier that is now electric. It’s got a Tongsheng mid drive motor that works great. I did change to alloy rims and better brakes so it stops better. Have you considered drum brakes? If I did it again that’s what I’d do

 

[gsm.terra]

I’ve got an early 80s 3 speed Raleigh Courier that is now electric. It’s got a Tongsheng mid drive motor that works great. I did change to alloy rims and better brakes so it stops better. Have you considered drum brakes? If I did it again that’s what I’d do

View attachment 41410

Beautiful bike! Nice conversion.. well done!!

 

[Johnnyone]

Thank you, there’s a lot of beauties on this thread!