Help! What To Do?

[Nealh]

Error 30 still indicates a communications issue between controller and display, finding the fault isn't easy and there is no easy option but test and test.

Check all connections at the controller and display end and for any bent wires or pins at the connectors, also look for any corrosion on wire connections.
Check the main trunk harness between display and contoller for any bad kinks or very tight ties securing it, a pinched wire can cause the comm's issue.

The fact the display turns on then shuts down could be a wire break/pinched wire or loose wire , it may even be in the display.
One can try and rule out the harness by shorting the Red and Blue wires at the display end together, the motor should work.

The fault may be anything causing a comm's issue so try disconnecting PAS, throttle and brakes to see if the display stays on , all these use a commonn 5v rail in the controller to supply voltage. If one item is causing conflict then it will affect all the 5v connections.
Also the motor may have hall sensors so 5v tests on the motor is needed.





Willy nilly swapping stuff out works out expensive and often doesn't solve the issue, though one might strike lucky.

 

[ChadStokes]

Not bad though. It looks pretty good. Carry on!

 

[tometucker]

Error 30 still indicates a communications issue between controller and display, finding the fault isn't easy and there is no easy option but test and test.

Check all connections at the controller and display end and for any bent wires or pins at the connectors, also look for any corrosion on wire connections.
Check the main trunk harness between display and contoller for any bad kinks or very tight ties securing it, a pinched wire can cause the comm's issue.

The fact the display turns on then shuts down could be a wire break/pinched wire or loose wire , it may even be in the display.
One can try and rule out the harness by shorting the Red and Blue wires at the display end together, the motor should work.

The fault may be anything causing a comm's issue so try disconnecting PAS, throttle and brakes to see if the display stays on , all these use a commonn 5v rail in the controller to supply voltage. If one item is causing conflict then it will affect all the 5v connections.
Also the motor may have hall sensors so 5v tests on the motor is needed.





Willy nilly swapping stuff out works out expensive and often doesn't solve the issue, though one might strike lucky.

Hi. Not sure what to do now. I took the bike into one local electric bike dealer who had a look at the electrics. They said they couldn't help & said they had found a 5v feed & were concerned that it would blow the electrics. Another shop said that they couldn't help as it was a chinese bike & they couldn't get any parts.
I have checked the bike over as best I can & have had the controller out but can find nothing obviously wrong. I took the LCD unit off but after removing the case screws I couldn't get inside as I the two sections are very tight. I didn't want to damage it by trying to pry the two parts apart without knowing how they were held together.
I am tempted to try & get a new controller, if I can get one, as it seems to be the most likely cause of the problem but having bought the new battery I am concerned about spending more money & still not curing the problem. I have browsed several of the forums regarding this bike & error 30 & it looks to me that it may be possible to find an alternative controller if my one is no longer available. I have attached a couple of photos to show the controller & it's housing hoping these will help.
Any comments or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards.

 

[Woosh]

Error 30 is communication error. It can be the pedal sensor, the speed sensor, the throttle, the LCD, the controller or the wiring loom. You have to swap out one component at a time to eliminate it from the list.
I can understand that most e-bike shops don't have the parts at hand.
where do you live? If you can bring your bike to Southend, I can take a look for you.

 

[Nealh]

If you had a meter one can do some wire/voltage tests to determine what may be defective.
It is pointless buying stuff on the off chnace your hunch may be correct.
As Tony has said error 30 can be a fualt anywhere but I would first check the wire loom and try and carry out a cintiuation check on the loom to rue out an intemittent wire issue.
There are variou sother checks to carry out as well but one has to be methodical and one item tested at a time.

 

[Nealh]

A 5v feed is normal for bikes and all the peripherla items, speed sensor, pas , throttle , motor halls and then display will all have a 5v feed, Any that don't is at fault.

The last time I repaired a an error 30 issue was on one of Tony's Wossh bikes about 4 or 5 years ago, the fault was the main trunk cable from controller to display. The cable routing was part internal and the problem occured at the bottom bracket/down tube entry where the cable bend was acute. One of the small wires would have broken insde the main outer sheath.

 

[Nealh]

Do you have a meter to carry out wire/voltage testing ?

One can't simply buy any controller or display, they have to paired/compatible.

I would start with the main controller to display trunk cable, disconnect it at both ends and with a meter on bleep/ continuation mode probe the same wire colours at each end with the probes to test that one gets a bleep/continuation on each wire.
Any wire that doesn't bleep likely has a break it it.

 

[tometucker]

Thanks to Woosh for offer but Lowestoft if quite a long way from Southend.

 

[tometucker]

Do you have a meter to carry out wire/voltage testing ?

One can't simply buy any controller or display, they have to paired/compatible.

I would start with the main controller to display trunk cable, disconnect it at both ends and with a meter on bleep/ continuation mode probe the same wire colours at each end with the probes to test that one gets a bleep/continuation on each wire.
Any wire that doesn't bleep likely has a break it it.

Thanks also to Nealh. I have a voltmeter

 

[tometucker]

Thanks also to Nealh. I have a voltmeter & can do beep tests. My problem at the moment is accessing the inside of the display unit. I have removed the screws holding the two sections of the unit together but there is no obvious way of splitting them & I am concerned in case they are snapped together. I will have to try slipping a razor blade between the sections & pry gently. There are connectors in the cables near the unit so I should be able to test the wires in the main cable hopefully.
Is there any way of testing the control unit itself? The power is obviously getting from the battery to the display unit as it does initially light up before shutting down with the error30 message.
Can I disconnect any of the wires or connectors at the control box end to see if that affects the display? I do feel that it is like stumbling around in the dark trying to locate this problem.

 

[Nealh]

I haven't the time now but tommorrow or early next week I will attempt to guide you in to some wire testing to see if one can find the issue, unless of course some other helpful soul steps in mean time.

 

[tometucker]

I haven't the time now but tommorrow or early next week I will attempt to guide you in to some wire testing to see if one can find the issue, unless of course some other helpful soul steps in mean time.

That would be great. I am going to have a go at tracing the main cable wires this weekend. At least I'll see if I can see what wires go where at the controller.

 

[Nealh]

Show us a pic of the meter's functions so we can see if it has a beep mode with the diode function.

 

[tometucker]

Show us a pic of the meter's functions so we can see if it has a beep mode with the diode function.

I've got two meters, the black one has an audible beep, the blue one just has the diode setting. I have sent a couple of photos also of the controller & wires. Hope they all help.
Regards
Tom

 

[Nealh]

Use the beep function meter and test for continuity on the wire loom that connects the display to the controller, test each cooured wire for a beep and if one doesn't beep then that will be the sourc eof the error code.
If they all beep then we will have to move on and check that the 5v is good.

 

[tometucker]

Managed to beep test all the wires in the main cable from the controller end to the front of the bike. The cable split at the front with leads to the throttle & left brake on one branch & to the right brake & display unit on the other. All wires beeped to confirm continuity so it looks like the main cable is OK?
I have disconnected everything from the controller which makes it easier to identify what goes to where. Your thoughts on what to try next will be appreciated.
At least I have worked out what a PAS is now after reading the forum posts. I hadn't noticed the ring on the chain wheel until I started looking at the controller & wires.

 

[Nealh]

Check the 5v is ok, one can use any of the peripheral wiring to test as the 5v is a common rail used in the controller. One will need the controller power on then select the PAS or throttle controller wire connector and probe the 5v/ Red & Gnd/Black one should see 4.5 - 5v.

 

[tometucker]

Check the 5v is ok, one can use any of the peripheral wiring to test as the 5v is a common rail used in the controller. One will need the controller power on then select the PAS or throttle controller wire connector and probe the 5v/ Red & Gnd/Black one should see 4.5 - 5v.

Hi,
I tested the battery output & it was 40.2volts. I then connected the feed cables from the battery to the controller. I tested the PAS output from the controller but the meter showed nothing. I then tested the other outputs but none showed any voltage other than a flicker of 0.06v on one but it didn't repeat.
I have taken another photo of the wires coming out of the controller for a clearer picture. The red & black wire on the left cluster was not connected to anything & there were no spare wires coming out of the frame box.

 

[Nealh]

Connect the display and switch it on, as it sends a return 5v voltage to the controller.
If approx.4.5v isn't seen then the controller is likely at fault, one can get a pin contact up the back of the connector . The wire marked White is likely an ext speed sensor wire so one should get a reading via the Gnd/Black & 5v/Red.

One can double check if the controller is at fault by shorting the Blue and Red together on the cintroller wiring for the display, the motor should turn.

If the motor works then the display is likely faulty.

 

[tometucker]

Connect the display and switch it on, as it sends a return 5v voltage to the controller.
If approx.4.5v isn't seen then the controller is likely at fault, one can get a pin contact up the back of the connector . The wire marked White is likely an ext speed sensor wire so one should get a reading via the Gnd/Black & 5v/Red.

One can double check if the controller is at fault by shorting the Blue and Red together on the controller wiring for the display, the motor should turn.

If the motor works then the display is likely faulty.

Good morning,
I have connected it all back up, checked the battery output, & switched on. The err30 message came on before I could test the red/black connectors (on the connector to the single white wire which I didn't connect so that I could test the red/black outputs). With the display still on showing the err30 message I did get a reding of 0.17volts on the red/black wires.
In case it made any difference I got my wife to press the on button again while I held the probes on the red/black wires to see if anything came through in the couple of seconds before the display shut off with the err30 message showing. It didn't & stayed at 0.17v.