what now

[robdon]

I require a bit of help with this Giant Suede that i am trying to update a bit with a kit bought off ebay.
I am fitting the controller onto the seat pillar, in a plastic box made for controllers.
The controller is 36volt 250w—350w 6 mosfet with LCD 861 meter, twelve pole PAS and half twist throttle.
The controller, LCD, PAS and throttle have been fitted, and i spent hours going through the hall wire and phase wire sequence, as this bike has six hall wires instead of five, also coloured red, black, yellow blue, pink and orange.
I have a motor/ controller tester and i am certain the blue wire is odd one out.
Tested hall and phase sequences, using the chart d8veh supplied also the 36 sequence chart, which covers all different combinations.
Eventually at version 34 the motor run smoothly and quiet, but would only run by powering up the LCD and pressing the CUR button also pressing the same button to stop motor.
The throttle and PAS have not worked through all these tests, and still do not.
Throttle voltage red to black = 4.3v turning throttle = 0.86v to 3.55v.
PAS voltage = 4.21 turning pedals in any direction same, i have tried two different PAS
The motor/ controller tests on throttle were ok.
Everything on the LCD seems ok, switches on and off, shows voltage, controller voltage etc.
I am stuck anyone any idea, reading through past articles member eHomer had a similar experience, only he could not get wheels spinning
ROB

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Disconnect everything from the controller except the motor, battery and throttle. Check the throttle wire connector red to red, black to black and signal to signal. Now try the throttle.

Did you get a manual with the controller/LCD? It might be set to PAS start, so you have to pedal to work on the throttle

Did you check the colour sequence on the PAS?

Show us a photo of the controller's connectors, which should be clear enough to see what you've got.

What happened to the KU65? We know how that one works.

 

[flecc]

I don't know if it's any help at all, but the Sanyo motor this uses was originally designed as a regenerating one, maybe accounting for the extra wire. On the subsequent Twist 1 and 2 models Giant made it a regenerator again with the freewheel omitted.

 

[robdon]

thanks for the advice d8veh,i will try every thing you have suggested
I have down loaded a manual but it does not mention you have to pedal to work on throttle, I will give that a try, the ku65, I am changing some of the connections for better ones, if I cannot get this one to work I will try it.
thank you flecc for that information, probably explains the blue wire.

ROB

 

[robdon]

another

ROB
the little connector with the red couplers is something I made up for switching wire during testing hall wire sequence

 

[Deleted member 4366]

thanks for the advice d8veh,i will try every thing you have suggested
I have down loaded a manual but it does not mention you have to pedal to work on throttle, I will give that a try, the ku65, I am changing some of the connections for better ones, if I cannot get this one to work I will try it.
thank you flecc for that information, probably explains the blue wire.

ROB

It looks like everything is correct there. That looks like a very similar controller to the ones I sold to some forum members; however, the software can be different. Mine work with and without the hall sensors, and so does the KU65.

You got the motor to turn with sequence number 34, so that must be the correct sequence. You don't need to mess with that anymore. You only need to find out why it won't work with the throttle.

Press and hold the + and - buttons on the display, then scroll through the parameters with the power button to see if one of them says anything to do with start.

 

[robdon]

I went through the P parameters p1--p12 and could not find any thing wrong,
so maybe some one will have one of these LCD`s and give some advice.
In the meantime I have uncoupled the controller, and fitted the KU65 one.
the throttle worked perfect as soon as I switched the led on, only thing the motor is in reverse, the wheel spins very fast, and seems to work ok in the three modes, probably goes so fast with no load. I uncoupled the hall wires and still works, then re-coupled them.
phase wires were set up with previous controller, yellow to yellow, green to blue, blue to green.
changed to yellow to yellow, green to green, blue to blue. still the same in reverse, again in yellow to blue, green to green, blue to yellow ran in forward but shuddering, I am finished for the night, I am seeing stars.
the controller which I took off, and hope to put back on is a 806--KH039, 36v, 14 amp, booster 1.5 , 2v dual mode.
ROB

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It sounds like you have a false positive on your wiring sequence. The KU65 can run without halls, so leave them disconnected first. Then you only have to swap two wires to reverse the motor. Once you have the phase wires right, there's only four combinations of halls, but if the motor runs OK without them, you can leave them disconnected.

 

[robdon]

ok I will try that, seem to be getting somewhere now.
thanks for all your help,
ROB

 

[robdon]

motor running ok now without hall wires, I want to fit a hidden wire brake sensor, does it connect to the red, black and yellow wire, on the controller and if so, the wires for the hwbs are coloured red, blue and yellow.
Is it red to red, yellow to yellow, and blue to black, I was thinking the blue wire may be a signal wire
ROB

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No, that's not right. Do you have three-wire connectors for the brakes on your controller? The brake sensor wires are red 5v, blue signal and yellow ground. If you have two-wire brake connectors, you have to splice the red sensor wire onto a red from the throttle or pedal sensor, then blue sensor to yellow controller and yellow sensor to black controller. If you've found another red, check it with a meter before connecting to the brake sensor because it could be carrying battery voltage,

The HWBS only goes one way round. If the LED is on all the time, turn it round at put it on the other end of the cable.

 

[robdon]

GIANT SUEDE now up and running like a rocket, running sensorless, without hall wires connected.
PAS and throttle working perfect, nice to see an old bike looking so good and running so well, thanks for all the help, especially d8veh.
I had never seen an ebike a few months ago, so I have learned a lot from this forum.

ROB

 

[flecc]

They are a great e-bike Rob, their only weakness being the budget 36 volt NiMh battery and chargers which did give some trouble. But that e-bike built with typical Giant quality was a fantastic bargain at just £600 new.

 

[Peachy]

GIANT SUEDE now up and running like a rocket, running sensorless, without hall wires connected.
PAS and throttle working perfect, nice to see an old bike looking so good and running so well, thanks for all the help, especially d8veh.
I had never seen an ebike a few months ago, so I have learned a lot from this forum.

ROB

I have this Very same bike been stuck in shed for over a year.Unable to get working. Would be greatful for help motor controller board is u/s and need a cct of bike to try and repair plz can you help.Andy

 

[Peachy]

Ideed, because motor control board is u/s.
Unshore how to test repair other parts.
ie, Motor and on/eco box plz can some one help.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need a KU63 controller from BMSBattery along with a LED control panel, PAS sensor and throttle. Connect it all up except the motor hall sensors, and away you go. You can see that Rob put his controller in a box on the seat tube. You could put it in a bag under the saddle instead.

Are you sure your battery is OK because that will be expensive to sort?

 

[Peachy]

Thankyou for you help, yep brand new battery just befoe it died,Andy