What happens when you overload phase wires?

[Do it yourselfer]

Trying to diagnose.
Rode up a 17 degree hill.
Smelled melted plastic slightly.
Rode home another mile up a 7 degree hill.
Entering my garage a small zap occurred at the controller area.
Lifting rear wheel off the ground and twisting throttle, the tire would judder forward 30 degrees and stop.

Motor does not work at all now.

Powering on after a power down...the sw900 screen Comes to life for 1/3 of a second then shuts off.
It is 750 watt bafang geared rear hub motor. 48 volt 13.2 ah batt fully charged.
The odd part is that if I use a 36v batt (fully charged to 42 v)
The sw900 lcd will power on and stay on, with an error code number 6.
Twisting the throttle yields no results.
To test I unplugged power wires and phase wires.
The phase wires at the motor all read 19 ohms.
The phase wires at the controller all yield a reading of 1....ground (black) to each phase wire.....then testing red to each phase wire. Then testing phase wires to each other.

I get the three coil lights to FLICKER on my Chinese controller tester....but ONLY when spinning the wheel backwards!

Any thoughts / suggestions?
I need to make a converter patch cable to test the hall sensors from the motor using the controller tester.
Thx for any help

 

[Nealh]

Sounds like you may have blown mosfets in the controller, the melted plastic smell is often the phase bullets/connectors getting to hot and the cable or bullet sheathing scorching.
If any of the phase wiring shorts out, zap the mosfets get it in the neck and blow.
With the phase it is best to either solder them directly or refit the connectors esp bullets with a decent one that can handle higher amperage and heat.

 

[Do it yourselfer]

Thx

 

[Nealh]

Can you show us a pic of your phase wires connections.
Although I have not blown a controller yet, I have changed a few controller to motor connectors due to having the plastic sheathing on them suffer from heat and deforming in the past. Most bullets don't handle the amperage heat very well after some use.
MT60 is my favoured connector now.

 

[vfr400]

It's normally the shrouds around the bullet connectors that melt or the wires that come out of the controller and join to them.

I've said it a million times before, never try and use an ebike motor if it isn't running properly. You start with a shorting connector because the shrouds melted, then when you try to continue, the short pushes massive current through the MOSFETs, which makes them blow. when they go short circuit, it lets the whole battery current directly into the motor phase windings, which can burn those too, so a simple, easy to fix problem can destroy everything.

You test the controller by measuring the resistance between each battery wire and each of the three phase wire connectors on the controller (with the controller disconnected) to get 6 readings. Each group of three should be the same as each other and in the range 7K to 14K.

 

[Do it yourselfer]

Can you show us a pic of your phase wires connections.
Although I have not blown a controller yet, I have changed a few controller to motor connectors due to having the plastic sheathing on them suffer from heat and deforming in the past. Most bullets don't handle the amperage heat very well after some use.
MT60 is my favoured connector now.

 

[Do it yourselfer]

Any suggestions on where to buy this exact controller?
Its got to be 4" at its length

 

[Do it yourselfer]

Can you show us a pic of your phase wires connections.
Although I have not blown a controller yet, I have changed a few controller to motor connectors due to having the plastic sheathing on them suffer from heat and deforming in the past. Most bullets don't handle the amperage heat very well after some use.
MT60 is my favoured connector now.

Thanks for the heads up on the connectors lots of price choices

Amazon.com : Mt60 connector

 

[Do it yourselfer]

Here's a good video to anyone interested in checking/replacing mofsets.

Looks like all of mine are shorted out

 

[Nealh]

That is typically what happens when said bullets can't take the amperage, the plastic sheathing. shrouds scorch/burn and if you are unlucky can short out against each other.

 

[Nealh]

You can use any controller though you may have to buy a compatibale led/lcd for it to work correctly, your controller has no name so no idea of the maker.

This seller has a controller and sw900.

Electroc Bicycle Ebike Controller With LCD Display SW900 24V36V48V350W500W800W1000W Bicicleta Electrica Electric Bike Accessory|Bicycle Computer| - AliExpress

Cheap Bicycle Computer, Buy Quality Sports & Entertainment Directly from China Suppliers:Electroc Bicycle Ebike Controller With LCD Display SW900 24V36V48V350W500W800W1000W Bicicleta Electrica Electric Bike Accessory Enjoy ✓Free Shipping Worldwide! ✓Limited Time Sale ✓Easy Return.

www.aliexpress.com

Or in USA.

Get the 36V/48V SW900 LCD Display for E-bikes | eBikeling

Enhance your e-bike's interface with the 36V/48V SW900 LCD Display from eBikeling. Clear visuals, easy controls. Shop now for a seamless e-bike experience!

ebikeling.com

 

[Do it yourselfer]

I've noticed that several of the newest motor /controller/ throttle kits on Ebay have this similar name of DC Moto.
My big problem is finding one that is the size of a pack of cigarettes to fit back in the frame compartment where the old controller came out of. I found a used one on eBay but now that I have tested it it has the exact same problem as my old burned-out controller has!

 

[Deleted member 25121]

"DC Moto" is probable Chinglish for "DC Motor"

 

[Nealh]

If you have LCD then it is digital so you need the same make of controller to be compatible, they need the same command protocols to interact and work properly. Another controller may work with your lcd though not all the functions will work or display correctly.
The Brainpower may work as it has similar P parameters that go up to P14/P15.

Also you have 18a controller the cheapo 13a ones will feel gutless compared to your one.
One option is to go for KT & LCD3 you can get the small 6 fet sinewave ones that are 96mm x 61mm x35mm, you can have 15,17 or 20a.

 

[Do it yourselfer]

If you have LCD then it is digital so you need the same make of controller to be compatible, they need the same command protocols to interact and work properly. Another controller may work with your lcd though not all the functions will work or display correctly.
The Brainpower may work as it has similar P parameters that go up to P14/P15.

Also you have 18a controller the cheapo 13a ones will feel gutless compared to your one.
One option is to go for KT & LCD3 you can get the small 6 fet sinewave ones that are 96mm x 61mm x35mm, you can have 15,17 or 20a.

Thx
I'll check those out

 

[Do it yourselfer]

"DC Moto" is probable Chinglish for "DC Motor"

L o L

 

[manman94]

Pardon our interruption...

 

[manman94]

They also have with 17ah