What do you think of my new bike?
- Thread starter Woosh
- Start date
15A. If there is a configurator, someone is going to push it to 20A.
I checked a similar rack on a wisper bike parked in Southend-On-Sea high street sometime ago, it's rock solid.
The decision to go with a frame mounted motor as opposed to BB motor is the lack of flex at around the bottom bracket area yielding a lower battery consumption. Also, in the long run, servicing is not much more complex compared to a bb motor. The gearbox of frame mounted motor has better support so should be longer lasting. I have had zero problems with the bafang max drive I used before in my snow bike and my rambla bike.
The decision to go with a frame mounted motor as opposed to BB motor is the lack of flex at around the bottom bracket area yielding a lower battery consumption. Also, in the long run, servicing is not much more complex compared to a bb motor. The gearbox of frame mounted motor has better support so should be longer lasting. I have had zero problems with the bafang max drive I used before in my snow bike and my rambla bike.
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What would be the harm in that? You supply good quality batteries. Profit selling new controllers to buyers of that bike when they fail years out of warranty. Buyers of a bike which looks so similar to a Haibike would be royally cheesed off if it wasn't as powerful - an irrational expectation given this bike's pricetag of couse, but even so. My 20" wheeler with BBS01B at 15A and a 52T chainwheel provides rapid acceleration to highest legal speed on the flats, as well as excellent steep hill climbing ability, even when towing heavy bicycle trailers. And it's even better at 18A - buyers of a bike which looks so similar to a Haibike will expect similar performance at the very least. IMHO 15A is too low. 24A at least, and it'll be a beast. Get Ananda to fiddle firmware at the factory, you'll sell more and buyers won't feel let down.
How does it cope with this hill in Southend?
What's it's maximum
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A couple of points about the bike @Woosh if I may please?
- The Torque Sensing system is a great choice vs cadence sensing IMHO
- The mudguards front and back really aren't great from an aesthetic point of view and don't extend far enough either on the rear or front to give adequate splash protection.
- The rack - there's a growing tendancy for racks not to have seat stay connection points but to be connected to the rear mudguard instead which I would hazard to guess that load carrying capacity is consequently reduced, unless of course the mudguards are so heavy duty for that not to be an issue?
- And the rack tubing - hopefully the tubing size is OK for standard pannier attachment systems from the likes of Ortleib et al?
- Colour - hmmm, matt black by any other name - I take your point(s) about that but for me I'd just walk away from the bike despite it's many excellent points, especially the price point. Even alloy wheel rims/hubs and steel spokes and something like alloy coloured SKS mudguards would brighten things up - but that's all a personal preference thing.
- Is the battery removable for charging is the BMS technology such that re-celling won't be an issue like it is with recent generation Bosch systems for instance?
most of my customers are 'traditionally built' anyway. So I have chosen one of the strongest frames, look at the thickness of the toptube.
It should cope with 25st riders. One good thing about going with a crank motor is that the stress on the rear spokes are much reduced compared to a rear hub kit like the DWG22C. I expect the new bike will be more comfortable and also won't break rear spokes.
The battery is 48V so the motor should have a 30% wider range of power compared to 36V. 48V 10A continuous, 15A max should be enough to climb hills. If you push to 20A, the bike's derestricted speed on flat roads would be 30mph, not something I would want to make.
agreed, I am allowed to advertise being a trade member. It's important to collect opinions so if any change is found desirable, I can still make it before commiting to production run.
Battery has Bafang form factor so you can find replacements on the net.
They gave me a 48V 15AH on the sample, I paid only for a 48V 10AH.
For me charging on bike is no go as it means I have to trail a lead .
Also as I use my bikes for almost everything bar carrying 4.2m lengths of wood or plaster board /very awkward stuff , I prefer a very secure and strong fixed pannier rack that will take 30kg.
My bikes are not only a recreation bike but also a tool for doing a job.
I think what ever you end up with it will sell esp on price point as you have been in the game long enough to know your market /customers. The mid drive will appeal to a lot of buyers who know little about bikes as they will see other big brands only offering mid drive.
However for a local run around or town bike I don't see the appeal for a mid drive , but that matters not as in your range line up there are other good hub motor bikes that are better for the job.
Also as I use my bikes for almost everything bar carrying 4.2m lengths of wood or plaster board /very awkward stuff , I prefer a very secure and strong fixed pannier rack that will take 30kg.
My bikes are not only a recreation bike but also a tool for doing a job.
I think what ever you end up with it will sell esp on price point as you have been in the game long enough to know your market /customers. The mid drive will appeal to a lot of buyers who know little about bikes as they will see other big brands only offering mid drive.
However for a local run around or town bike I don't see the appeal for a mid drive , but that matters not as in your range line up there are other good hub motor bikes that are better for the job.
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I posted the picture of the battery. It is removeable. The frame has the normal lock and keys.
I don't know yet the load rating of this type of racks. I think it's no worse than the usual racks with rods attached to the seat stays. The seat stay rods are not load bearing anyway.
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I have a Woosh Gran Camino, and I love the matt black paint. If I want to add colour, I can mask a bit off and spray it or add some vinyl covering or other accessories.
With this new bike, I also share concerns about the rack - it just looks like it would tip backwards/forwards quite easily depending on where the weight is. Is it just the bolt torque that is keeping it from moving?
The rear mud guard looks fine, but front one looks like there's too much space between the tyre.
I also like that the kickstand is further back so it doesn't collide with the pedals (like it does on my Gran Camino).
The final thing for me is a minor point, but I think a bit of cable wrap would really tidy up the front cables.
Overall it looks great
With this new bike, I also share concerns about the rack - it just looks like it would tip backwards/forwards quite easily depending on where the weight is. Is it just the bolt torque that is keeping it from moving?
The rear mud guard looks fine, but front one looks like there's too much space between the tyre.
I also like that the kickstand is further back so it doesn't collide with the pedals (like it does on my Gran Camino).
The final thing for me is a minor point, but I think a bit of cable wrap would really tidy up the front cables.
Overall it looks great
I'm with Neale on racks needing to have a large range of utility uses, so I don't like the trend for attaching racks onto mudguards. Both the Giant Lafree and Ezee Quando I owned at one time had the identical very sensible rack. The best features were:
So strong, it once even carried a big old 32" CRT TV for recycling and on both bikes my car-style central rear towball was attached to the carrier frame to tow my large trailer, not the bike.
For and aft levelling adjustment.
Rear support for pannier bags to hold them clear of wheel etc.
Adequate pedalling to pannier clearance.
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