What Chain Lube?
- Thread starter Doomanic
- Start date
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Muc-Off-Lube-Wet-and-Dry-120ml-Twinpack_106929.htm?sku=394517&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnOzSBRDGARIsAL-mUB1a1mOG8nUA5BByJ7ZivHBqtbj2aqjcTScrI7seTb-weG7k3OwRHisaArm3EALw_wcB
wet winter dry summer i clean and lube every ride or try to anyway as will get less wear on the drive chain.
wet winter dry summer i clean and lube every ride or try to anyway as will get less wear on the drive chain.
Finishing line wet lube I use with the applicator sponge push it on the chain and spin the chain and it lubes the chain within 30 seconds quickest method for lubing a chain no drip no where and quick and overall save about 50% on lube to because it not going everywhere
Nothing worse then lube going everywhere and not going on the right places
Nothing worse then lube going everywhere and not going on the right places
The jewellery cleaner does an amazing job. I have tried different ways of using it, one of which is hot water and washing up liquid which did a surprisingly good job with the chain looking like "Wow" brand new! The downside is the water on metal thing but after a soak in a paraffin/engine oil mix it was fine and didnt seem to lessen chain life any either which is around 1000 miles or when the park chain tool drops in to the longer setting. I put the chain in, give it the max time which is 6 minutes and go have a coffee while it cooks.
However good sense has prevailed and I now use paraffin as the cleaning agent which doesn't do as good a job as the Water/Soap mix but leaves the chain nice and oily.
It cost me about £20 and I consider it a good buy.
And yes, I am aware its a combustible substance..
However good sense has prevailed and I now use paraffin as the cleaning agent which doesn't do as good a job as the Water/Soap mix but leaves the chain nice and oily.
It cost me about £20 and I consider it a good buy.
And yes, I am aware its a combustible substance..
Lots and Lots of discussion on this seemingly small subject. This is a good article if you want more info, but it is a kind of personal choice really.
http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/wet-or-dry-which-bicycle-chain-lube-should-you-use-289671
The only think I would say is not to go mad with the de-greasers when cleaning the chain on the bike, esp at the crank end, as this will remove the grease from the motor bearings, and will lead to a costly repair. I always remove my chain before cleaning, that way I can get into the jockey wheels etc to see how dirty they are.
It's all about maintenance, if you clean and lubricate regularly, things will last longer, if you go for the easy options and spray de-greaser everywhere, to clean things, and lube infrequently.... you will end up with problems.
The consensus of opinion is Wet Lube in Wet weather, Dry Lube in Dry weather... but it's best to have ANY lube rather than NO lube.
http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/wet-or-dry-which-bicycle-chain-lube-should-you-use-289671
The only think I would say is not to go mad with the de-greasers when cleaning the chain on the bike, esp at the crank end, as this will remove the grease from the motor bearings, and will lead to a costly repair. I always remove my chain before cleaning, that way I can get into the jockey wheels etc to see how dirty they are.
It's all about maintenance, if you clean and lubricate regularly, things will last longer, if you go for the easy options and spray de-greaser everywhere, to clean things, and lube infrequently.... you will end up with problems.
The consensus of opinion is Wet Lube in Wet weather, Dry Lube in Dry weather... but it's best to have ANY lube rather than NO lube.
I would add to that with ..
In my experience expensive chains dont seem to last any longer than cheaper ones so I generally buy one thats on offer, with a bag of single use power links and the tool to remove them (really good buy). I have a chain measuring tool and bin it (the chain) when it shows signs of wear which makes the more expensive bits last a good deal longer. One of my bikes (emtb) had done well over 3000 miles and at a service LBS told me I didnt need either a cassette or chainring.. This does depend on useage and I do most of my miles on dry roads, but you get the drift..
There have been so many threads concerning jumping chains whichiare generally down to a really worn chain making a new profile on the cogs which then wont mate up with a new chain. End result.. complete new drive train, which, depending on what your bike has, could be costly.
Treat your bike like you would a woman.. Look after it and it will serve you well, treat it badly and it will let you down.
In my experience expensive chains dont seem to last any longer than cheaper ones so I generally buy one thats on offer, with a bag of single use power links and the tool to remove them (really good buy). I have a chain measuring tool and bin it (the chain) when it shows signs of wear which makes the more expensive bits last a good deal longer. One of my bikes (emtb) had done well over 3000 miles and at a service LBS told me I didnt need either a cassette or chainring.. This does depend on useage and I do most of my miles on dry roads, but you get the drift..
There have been so many threads concerning jumping chains whichiare generally down to a really worn chain making a new profile on the cogs which then wont mate up with a new chain. End result.. complete new drive train, which, depending on what your bike has, could be costly.
Treat your bike like you would a woman.. Look after it and it will serve you well, treat it badly and it will let you down.
Never yet cleaned a chain, wet lube for winter riding and dry lube for summer. KMX9 when on offer I buy 2 or 3 haven't replaced a chain for a couple of years now. Though swap chains winter to summer.
I would think that if not cleaning a chain at all, the general greasy mucky build up should offer some protection against water in the winter..
Your roads must be filthy! Punctures, dirty chains, things unheard of... My Wippermann isn't as shiny as it was 2000 km ago but it isn't dirty. It has been lubed with dry lube once because it bounced off the big chainwheel onto the little one during a gear change on a rough bit of cycle path. The jockey wheels are OK I clean them out with a wooden toothpick if I notice any build up once every blue moon.
On the trike a whole different story, lots of chain (2.6 X longer) and as the trike is folded after each ride = stress on chain which is sort of folded too... It is very clean because of the tubes it runs through but it has to put up with more stress than the chain on Number Two. It will be replaced with a low end 8 speed Wippermanns soon (I hope) when I motorise, 30€ for 3 chains which I will split to fit.
On the trike a whole different story, lots of chain (2.6 X longer) and as the trike is folded after each ride = stress on chain which is sort of folded too... It is very clean because of the tubes it runs through but it has to put up with more stress than the chain on Number Two. It will be replaced with a low end 8 speed Wippermanns soon (I hope) when I motorise, 30€ for 3 chains which I will split to fit.
So you won't get black toothmarks on your jeans that won't wash off! I only have to look at mine and I have black marks on my clothes.
I didn't mean when riding. I often move things around in the garage and do small jobs on the bike without getting changed first.. often these small jobs escalate into bigger jobs then I "spoil " even more clothes ....I wear trouser clips or really skinny jeans
I use Muc Off C3 ceramic lube and never clean my chain.
The chain(KMC) on my BBS02 gets replaced every 1500 miles and the one on my BBSHD (both 9 speed) gets changed every 1200 miles.
Given that the chains are less than a tenner a piece its far cheaper than replacing cassettes and Bling rings!
I do use a chain checker now and then in case they decide to stretch sooner but so far all good.
The chain(KMC) on my BBS02 gets replaced every 1500 miles and the one on my BBSHD (both 9 speed) gets changed every 1200 miles.
Given that the chains are less than a tenner a piece its far cheaper than replacing cassettes and Bling rings!
I do use a chain checker now and then in case they decide to stretch sooner but so far all good.
I just do what I've done on motorcycle chains for 30 + years. Clean regularly with paraffin and a lint free rag and lube with engine oil applied using a clean rag- top up before with a squirt from a good old fashioned oil can.
Not a fan of sticky chain lubes , imo they simply merge with the dirt and grit to form a grinding paste, the oil is sacrificial and helps clean the grit off.
Not a fan of sticky chain lubes , imo they simply merge with the dirt and grit to form a grinding paste, the oil is sacrificial and helps clean the grit off.
My CX drive eMTB came withe more expensive KMC e11 chain, have thought about trying cheaper Shimano chains. The big plus KMC is I've yet to break a chain, non directional and come with quick link.
Would be interested in others experiences with Shimano 11spd chains vs KMC e11.
On wifes Shimano Steps bike run basic shimano 9spd and gives 2500kms. 9spds are so much cheaper to run.
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