Wayfarer back brake rubbing

[Ricky 88]

I had to remove the back wheel to fix a puncture today and now the back brake is really rubbing. The wheel barely spins. I tried loosening the bolts and adjusting the brake caliper, but it still really rubs. I tried to push the pistons back in too, but it didn't resolve the issue.

Also is there an easy way to remove the rear wheel? It was an absolutely nightmare to get the axle bolts out of the mounts and then back in.

It seems like some sort of design flaw too as the bolt with the wire through it was so tight to get back on due to the angle of the wire, I realise now it shouldn't be fully removed, but it does seem like it shouldn't be this tight, see pics below

 

[AndyBike]

If its tight you could maybe file the dropout opening a little bit.

 

[saneagle]

If the brake rubs, you've put the washers back in the wrong sequence or you've left out the one that goes on the brake side between the frame and the motor.

 

[Ricky 88]

I think filing the drop out would be really difficult as it seems like the wheel can't be fully removed from the frame due to the length of cable that's attached to it

If the brake rubs, you've put the washers back in the wrong sequence or you've left out the one that goes on the brake side between the frame and the motor.

Hmm I did think that, but the only washers on the inside of the frame are the ones with a notch in that lock into the drop outs, all of the other washers are on the outside

 

[saneagle]

Let's take one thing at a time. Firstly, you don't need to remove a wheel to fix a puncture. You pull the tyre off, pull the tube out, fix the puncture and put the tyre back on. You do that at the roadside where you get the puncture.

Secondly, the brake wasn't rubbing before you took the wheel out, and it is now. It shouldn't take a genius, like me, to figure out that you reassembled it incorrectly.

Thirdly, to get the axle out of the drop-out past the derailleur, you have to remove all nuts and washers from the axle. Your photos show the washer right where you don't want it. That should be enough to get it out. In the worst case, you detatch the derailleur by unscrewing the single hex bolt that retains it. The one that's grinning at you in the photos.

Forthly, there's a connector on the motor wire somewhere. You detatch that if you want to take the wheel away from the bike or remove the axle nut and washer completely.

Did you remove the tab washer from the axle on the brake side? What type of brake is it? What type of Wayfarer is it - Pro-rider, Eskute, Wisper or Wayfarer?

 

[esuark]

agree with above but pics of offending side may help

 

[Nealh]

Secondly, the brake wasn't rubbing before you took the wheel out, and it is now. It shouldn't take a genius, like me, to figure out that you reassembled it incorrectly.

or Wayfarer?

.

 

[Nealh]

All the time washers are left on the axle they ain't going to allow said axle to drop out past the derailleuer mount.

 

[Nealh]

Thirdly, to get the axle out of the drop-out past the derailleur, you have to remove all nuts and washers from the axle. Your photos show the washer right where you don't want it. That should be enough to get it out. In the worst case, you detatch the derailleur by unscrewing the single hex bolt that retains it. The one that's grinning at you in the photos.

Forthly, there's a connector on the motor wire somewhere. You detatch that if you want to take the wheel away from the bike or remove the axle nut and washer completely.

Yep, totally agree.

 

[Nealh]

If its tight you could maybe file the dropout opening a little bit.

Sorry Andy can't agree less , the drop outs are fine as they are as the axles need to be a very snug fit. Touching /altering the drops outs will invalidate any warranty and in the long run may cause premature drop out failure.
The manufatured design will be correct for the axle, sometimes one has to swing the derailleur back and away from the axle sans any nuts & washers .

I don't think David Miall would be impressed with your answer either.

 

[Ricky 88]

Let's take one thing at a time. Firstly, you don't need to remove a wheel to fix a puncture. You pull the tyre off, pull the tube out, fix the puncture and put the tyre back on. You do that at the roadside where you get the puncture.

Secondly, the brake wasn't rubbing before you took the wheel out, and it is now. It shouldn't take a genius, like me, to figure out that you reassembled it incorrectly.

Thirdly, to get the axle out of the drop-out past the derailleur, you have to remove all nuts and washers from the axle. Your photos show the washer right where you don't want it. That should be enough to get it out. In the worst case, you detatch the derailleur by unscrewing the single hex bolt that retains it. The one that's grinning at you in the photos.

Forthly, there's a connector on the motor wire somewhere. You detatch that if you want to take the wheel away from the bike or remove the axle nut and washer completely.

Did you remove the tab washer from the axle on the brake side? What type of brake is it? What type of Wayfarer is it - Pro-rider, Eskute, Wisper or Wayfarer?

Firstly there really is no need to be rude. I came here for advice, not to read someone attempting to belittle me.

I took the wheel off to replace to inner tube, not fix the puncture. And I definitely disagree, how are you supposed to properly inspect the inside of a tyre without removing it first? I guess a genius such as yourself doesn't have those issues.

Everything that came off went back on in the correct order. I think it's probably more likely that the brake was knocked out of alignment whilst trying to force the wheel back in. However, after removing both the wheel and also the brake today, and putting them both back on, it's still rubbing like mad.

If you'd read the op properly, you'd have realised that those photos were taken whilst putting the wheel back on, not removing it. Of course I removed the washers and nut before removing the wheel. The photos were to show that the nut needs to go round the curve in the wire before being threaded. Having the curve so tight is a real risk to cross threading.

The wires are integrated into the frame, there is no option to disconnect it on the outside, hence the question.

The bike is a H9. The tab washers are both still in the correct place. You can see from the pics below the margins are tiny and basically impossible to position the caliper without it touching the disc

 

[matthewslack]

It looks as though the caliper is not parallel with the disc either in vertical or horizontal. And having to be pushed far right on its mount.

If there was a washer inside the frame on the axle I'd remove it, but I don't see one.

Is this newish bike and first time wheel has been out? If so, perhaps a warranty issue.

 

[Nealh]

It looks as though the caliper is not parallel with the disc either in vertical or horizontal. And having to be pushed far right on its mount.

Yes agree , to which the pic doesn't lie.

 

[Ricky 88]

It looks as though the caliper is not parallel with the disc either in vertical or horizontal. And having to be pushed far right on its mount.

If there was a washer inside the frame on the axle I'd remove it, but I don't see one.

Is this newish bike and first time wheel has been out? If so, perhaps a warranty issue.

Yes it's as far over to the right as possible. The only washers on the inside are the tab washers.

Yes it's new, only done 200 miles so far and it is the first time it's been upside down and had the wheel out.

I just tried following this video to reset the pistons and let the pressure out a little bit, but it's not changed anything at all. I'll get hold of wisper/the supplier tomorrow

 

[Nealh]

Firstly there really is no need to be rude. I came here for advice, not to read someone attempting to belittle me.

I took the wheel off to replace to inner tube, not fix the puncture. And I definitely disagree, how are you supposed to properly inspect the inside of a tyre without removing it first? I guess a genius such as yourself doesn't have those issues.

Everything that came off went back on in the correct order. I think it's probably more likely that the brake was knocked out of alignment whilst trying to force the wheel back in. However, after removing both the wheel and also the brake today, and putting them both back on, it's still rubbing like mad.

If you'd read the op properly, you'd have realised that those photos were taken whilst putting the wheel back on, not removing it. Of course I removed the washers and nut before removing the wheel. The photos were to show that the nut needs to go round the curve in the wire before being threaded. Having the curve so tight is a real risk to cross threading.

The wires are integrated into the frame, there is no option to disconnect it on the outside, hence the question.

The bike is a H9. The tab washers are both still in the correct place. You can see from the pics below the margins are tiny and basically impossible to position the caliper without it touching the disc

View attachment 50045View attachment 50046View attachment 50047

In the top pic one can adjust the fore /aft alignment as all mounts have the slot to adjust the position, however the vertical alignment to me suggests the axle may not be sitting correctly in the drop out and not seating correctly ?

Also quite a lot of paint damage and wear/damage to the ali drop out , how did that occur ?
I have never seen damage like that occur on my rear drive hub bikes.

 

[Sturmey]

Fixing a rear wheel puncture can be tricky, especially on the side of the road and especially if your eyesight is not as good as it use to be. Anyhow, it might be worth carrying an open ended Gaadi tube for a spare so as you dont need to remove the wheel. e.g.

Inner Tubes - Double Ended | Inner Tubes | Tyres & Tubes | SJS Cycles

The most comprehensive range of quality cycle components, spares and accessories in the world with global delivery.

www.sjscycles.co.uk

 

[Nealh]

I used gaadi's on my rear hub bikes and now on the rear of my front hub drive Cotic as the rear I have installed hubs gears.

 

[slowcoach]

I agree with Nealh. It looks as though the axle may not be correctly seated. I have done that myself. Tightened the wheel in place then realise brake rubbing, so loosened wheel and checked wheel is seated correctly. Problem solved (well it was for me)

 

[Ricky 88]

So the wheel was seated fine, the issue was that there is some kind of bearing/washer that can be screwed/unscrewed into the hub. Somehow this had been unscrewed slightly which resulted in not only the brake rubbing, but also why the wheel was so difficult to remove and reseat

Anyone know what this is called/does?

 

[Nealh]

It is there to keep the motor assembly in place , behind it is a sealed press fit bearing and a bearing dust seal . Should one in a few thousand miles find the hub becomes noisy then this bearing will need replacing, once the wheel is removed one has to remove that nut to allow the inner assembly to be removed from the other side once the side cover has been removed.