Want to calculate your exact route distance?

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
196
Someone posted an excellent link on the Cycling Plus forum:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]http://www.gmap-pedometer.com

Using this tool you can plot your exact route on the Google Map and it will tell you how far you have travelled.

You can even see the elevation plotted on a graph!

UPDATE: You need to zoom in and plot within any curves/corners to get an accurate distance!

[/FONT][/FONT]
 

Jed

Pedelecer
Nov 1, 2006
75
0
Hey, that's pretty cool!

I don't think it takes elevation into consideration though when it calculates the distance, according to the forum anyway. Even so, it is very usefu.l

thanks
Jed
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
Oh dear!

I have a precisely measured test route so marked out the points for that, including all junctions, and it came up with 9.445 English miles. In fact it's precisely 4.9 miles, so there's something seriously wrong somewhere. Here's the URL of the route I mapped so you can check it:

http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=535459

For some odd reason the marker points are numbered all over the place although they were inserted from start to finish in correct sequence. :confused:
 

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
196
I found it easier to zoom in and then follow the road curves as accurately as possible.

Oh dear!

I have a precisely measured test route so marked out the points for that, including all junctions, and it came up with 9.445 English miles. In fact it's precisely 4.9 miles, so there's something seriously wrong somewhere. Here's the URL of the route I mapped so you can check it:

http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=535459

For some odd reason the marker points are numbered all over the place although they were inserted from start to finish in correct sequence. :confused:
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
I would normally have done that Russ, but just wanted a rough indication of it's working on this occasion. It doesn't seem as though it would be much good at measuring Roman roads if it demands points every few yards to give an accurate indication. The error on my route is huge, almost double the correct distance.

This does seem to limit it's use for longer journeys.
 

redalpha3

Pedelecer
Oct 31, 2006
91
0
I bought the north east 1:50000 offering from Memory-Map. It is accurate and very simple to use and what's more offers a profile of your journey. You can program way points and even transfer them to your gps. It was really useful when I was capable of off roading a little. I still find it a useful bit of kit.
 

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
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Yes, the developer admits as much on his forum:

http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5&sid=80c896aca0279c5d682e0535b5f2acfb

In its defence though, it correlates exactly with my cycle computer and was very useful earlier in determining the distance to commute when we move house in the new year - 17.5 miles GULP!

I would normally have done that Russ, but just wanted a rough indication of it's working on this occasion. It doesn't seem as though it would be much good at measuring Roman roads if it demands points every few yards to give an accurate indication. The error on my route is huge, almost double the correct distance.

This does seem to limit it's use for longer journeys.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
Thanks Russ, that explains it, a real trap for the unwary.

That new commute of yours is quite scary, hope it's still fairly flat. If it turns out to be a two battery job during each journey, it would be worth making some changes to enable a changeover by switching while still cycling, details on that in due course if needed.
 

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
196
Yes, i'm not too confident I can do it everyday but i'll give it a good try :) I can trim the route to 15 miles but this involves a 1 mile section of a dual carriageway that is notorious for serious accidents :(

There are a few long hills on the route so I'm not sure if a single battery will make it, so yes details on the changeover switch would be well received!

Thanks Russ, that explains it, a real trap for the unwary.

That new commute of yours is quite scary, hope it's still fairly flat. If it turns out to be a two battery job during each journey, it would be worth making some changes to enable a changeover by switching while still cycling, details on that in due course if needed.
 

mithril

Pedelecer
Oct 27, 2006
40
1
Clay Cross, Derbyshire
Russ,
I've just done my first week of 16.5-17.5 mile (depending on route) commutes each way on the Torq. I'd always thought it was 18 miles, but was forgetting I've moved office a short distance & house a short distance also in the last few months which explains the slight shortening.

I've got some steep hills, and some long but not so steep ones.

I ride restricted and so far the fastest I've done it is 56 minutes (which actually doesn't compare too badly with the car which can take 45-50 minutes at peak times). I do it on a single battery each way with juice to spare it seems. I do take a backup battery though and once they've both been charged/discharged a few more times I think I'm going to start swapping batteries at midpoint in the hope that this will keep them healthier for longer. The downside to this however is having to charge 2 batteries at work.

Anyway.... unless your route is much hillier than mine, you should be OK on a single charge.
 

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
196
Well done for completing the first week, that's an impressive commuting distance for anyone!

56 minutes restricted is pretty impressive. I'm doing just under 10 in 25 minutes so unrestricted may not make too much of a difference.

Li-Ion keep their charge well, you won't need to swap them around so much. You could use one on day 1, the other on day 2 etc.
 

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
196
I've just read your post again. Are you concerned about deep discharging the batteries i.e. 35 miles on a single charge?

I'm not sure how much the battery life would be extended by switching over at 17.5 so each day the battery is half-discharged before being charged again.

Perhaps Flecc might be able to advise which would be better in the long-term?
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
The sooner a Li-ion is charged the better, the importance of this cannot be too strongly stressed. The deeper the discharging, the shorter the life that results through loss of capacity, and this is quite marked on Li-ions of every type. I recharge with every journey, even after three and a half miles to and from the local shops.

Conversely, NiMh batteries are best fully discharged, if not every time, at least after every four or five charges. Ni-cads should be fully discharged every time without fail. Chargers for NiMh and Ni-cad are sometimes supplied with a discharge before charge facility, like the Metco charger I have for my Giant Lafree Twist, the two batteries for that still going strong after nearly four years.
 

mithril

Pedelecer
Oct 27, 2006
40
1
Clay Cross, Derbyshire
I must have been unclear - sorry, but I charge at work so I'm doing 17.5 miles per charge at the mo. I'm pretty sure a single charge wouldn't get me there and back again. Might give it a go one day to see how far I do get though :)
 

rsscott

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 17, 2006
1,399
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I think what can be confusing with the Li-Ion batteries is you see that everyone who offers Sealed Lead Acid(SLA) or NiMH batteries, they quote the number of charge cycles i.e.
NiMH : 500 Charge Cycles
With my previous bike (NiMH) I therefore tried to get as many miles out of one charge so I didn't "waste" a charge cycle charging a half-used battery!

I presume what your saying Flecc, is that Li-Ion doesn't operate in the same way and at the moment we don't really know how long these batteries will last other than through experience? But in the meantime, we shouldn't deep discharge them (reduces the life), but top up as soon as possible.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
That's exactly right Russ. Although the total life of Li-ions isn't yet known reliably under each condition due to lack of time experience, some characteristics are well known and understood. The Li-ion electrolytes are best kept topped up as full as possible at all times and then they have the longest chemical life. The deeper they are discharged, the greater the chemical stress, and on Li-ions this very markedly reduces the life. The main reason for that is the very high density of the electrolyte that's necessary to give the high capacity, this impeding the flow of current through it. The more and the deeper the current is forced through in either direction, the more the electrolyte suffers.

New research such as Lithium Polymer is now focussed away from that, using lower physical density electrolyte, with the high charge density maintained by use of smaller particulates having the same ion handling capability but taking up less physical space.

Lithium Cobalt batteries die by gradually increased internal resistance making it more and more difficult for the current to get in and out, the manganese based batteries that eZee supplies lose their capacity equally but by chemical decomposition instead. The rate of capacity loss in all Li-ion cases is mainly related to that depth of discharging and temperature.

The total range of capacity loss is huge, in an ideal case the capacity loss can be just 2% in one year, though an electric biker would find it impossible to provide such ideal conditions. The worst case means a loss of up to 35% in one year, i.e. a 15 mile range becoming less than 10 miles.

Finally, manufacturers have indicated a charge cycles figure for Li-ion of 300 to 500, but as with all battery types, this charge cycle figure is notional and not a reliable indicator. Most feel multi cell traction Li-ions are good for about two years use on average.
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
Added note.

Here's some simple guidlines from an independent battery authority:

Avoid frequent full discharges because this puts additional strain on the battery. Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory.

Keep the lithium-ion battery cool. Avoid a hot car. For prolonged storage, keep the battery at a 40% charge level.

Avoid purchasing spare lithium-ion batteries for later use. Observe manufacturing dates. Do not buy old stock, even if sold at clearance prices.

If you have a spare lithium-ion battery, use one to the fullest and keep the other cool by placing it in the refrigerator. Do not freeze the battery. For best results, store the battery at 40% state-of-charge.

My added note: You'll gather from the above that rechargeable Li-ions are chemically dying from the moment they are made, whether used or not, at a rate far higher than other types which can have shelf lives of 5 years or more. By contrast, non-rechargeable Lithium batteries have the longest shelf life of all at around 10 years, such is the complexity of this subject!
 

ITSPETEINIT

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 11, 2006
492
0
Mere, Wilts
Twice as many miles

Oh dear!

I have a precisely measured test route so marked out the points for that, including all junctions, and it came up with 9.445 English miles. In fact it's precisely 4.9 miles, so there's something seriously wrong somewhere. Here's the URL of the route I mapped so you can check it:

Gmaps Pedometer

For some odd reason the marker points are numbered all over the place although they were inserted from start to finish in correct sequence. :confused:
Hello Flecc:
I returned to the old postings made before I became a member just to 'bone up' on useful stuff, when I came across the above post of yours.
The reason why Sanoodi quoted almost twice the number of miles that the direct distance in fact is, is because it is precisely measured:
1 to 2 + 2 to 3 + 3 to 4 etc.
If you check the pins numbers you will see that the journey in the sequence of pins is as good as double the direct route pin 1 to pin 5.
Sorry if you've seen that before
Peter
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,262
30,649
Thanks Peter. Frankly I'd concluded it was near to useless for my purposes anyway so abandonned it at that. I took one more look at a later date, but was still underwhelmed.

I'm all for things that make life simpler, but there's much on the internet that does the opposite.
.
 

BigBob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 11, 2007
20
0
Swansea
I've always found the Ruler/Path option of Google Earth fairly good for calculating shorter route distances. Little labourious but you can measure accurately and check climbs/descents as well.





BB