Vitesse s4000 electric town bike

[scifibuff66]

Hi
I need a little help, I purchased a nearly new electric bike for my Wife earlier in the year not knowing if she was going to like it or use it.
Good news is she loves it and uses it most days. The problem is the people she is riding it with have slightly more modern contollers on their bikes, they are able to turn power of and on also low med and high power on thier handlebars and she is only able to have on or off controlled by a key on battery meaning she has to stop to either turn of or on.
Does anybody know if it is possible to upgrade this system possibly with a new controller. Even if the bike needs rewiring I think it may be worth it as the bike is a good one.
It is a Vitesse s4000 electric town bike. 24v 250w brushless motor it has twist grip throttle which is not used so can be disconnected lithium battery.
thanks
scifi

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's always a level of uncertainty, but the bike looks pretty standard Chines stuff, so shoul be possible to improve it.
The controller's in the compartment under the battery, and it would be a good idea to measure it and see how much space is around it. Then compare the size with thus one which will give you everything you want if it fits. Don't forget to select the 24v option. You might have to cut off a connector or two and join some wires, so you need to be able to solder. It'll be about £25 with postage:
KU65 250W 6Mosfets Controller With LED Panel - BMSBATTERY

If you want to make an on/off switch, it's dead easy. You can use any two-wire switch you want. Just scrape a bit of insulation off one of the wires from either brake and splice your two switch wires onto the two brake-switch wires. When the switch is on, it cuts the controller as if you've applied the brakes. The brake switches will still work normally when your new switch is off and the controller on. You won't need to make your standby switch if you buy the above controller because it has that function on its panel.

 

[scifibuff66]

Hi
Thanks for the reply, I am going to try the new controller as it has all my wife needs.
Scifi

 

[scifibuff66]

Hi
Controller has arrived. Good delivery I have had stuff take longer to arrive from this country just over a week from China.
Just one problem I was expecting a wiring diagram but there isn't one. Can anybody talk me through the proccess of changing the controller over. I have downloaded the wiring diagram from BMS tells me whats what but not sure where to start.
The controller on the Vitesse has. Battery charge indictor Red Yellow Green light. On handlebars
Twist throttle and on off button (not really worried about reconnecting this as not able to use in Spain anyway). But if have to to make work as long as on off button works it is ok.
Peddal assist.
Light button so lights run from battery.
The main thing I want to improve is the LED control on handle bars this has a independent wire and connector so I don't think that will be a problem. I am assuming this will take the place of the Red Green Yellow lights as charge indication is on LED.
Thanks
Eddy

 

[Deleted member 4366]

if you got the KU 65. It's pretty straight forward. There is a wiring diagram here. You have to click the "download" tab towards the bottom:
KU65 250W 6Mosfets Controller With LED Panel - BMSBATTERY

The hall sensor connector is optional. If you have hall sensors, connect it, otherwise leave it. If you do connect, make sure the colours match on each side. If they don't, you have to swap the pins over. you get the pins out by pressing back the barb with a darning needle or micro-screwdriver. Check also the throttle and PAS wire colours match positions.

Don't connect the cruise wires.

Your throttle will have three wires (red, black and green or white) plus some other ones. Don't worry about the other ones because you don't need them anymore.

The panel has it's own LEDs, so your old ones are redundant.

You may have the extra three-wire brake connector attached to the two-wire one. This is so that you can use their optional "hidden wire" brake sensors. Just use the two-pin one (black or blue, yellow), and it doesn't matter about matching colours. The wires go either way round.

The on/off button is also now on the panel, so again your old one is redundant.

There's no wire from the controller to power your lights. If they're 36v, the best way is to run two additional wires from the battery with a switch. I it's only a front 36v LED light, you should be OK tapping in to the red and black wires that go to the panel. but you still need a switch. The wires going to the panel are:
red 36v
blue 36v when the panel switch is on (activates the controller)
Black 0v
green PAS level signal for the controller.

 

[scifibuff66]

Thanks for the instructions.
Eddy

 

[scifibuff66]

Hi all again
Been a while since posted. I purchased the controller while I was in the UK but the ebike was in Spain where I spend the winter. This is why I now have the old controller handing from the bike and I need yet more help.
I have no problem with main wires motor, power and hall sensor colours all seem to match up.
The problem starts with the important stuff.
I have traced and it seems the PAS on the bike is three wires yellow black and red. Common sense would say yellow is the blue signal wire on new controller. Is there anyway this can be checked or should this be so. Obviously nothing is certain.
Brake sensor wires on the bike are blue and red and there are 4 of them going into a join on the old controller two wires black and green not yellow and black on new controller. This is a safety issue so I need to get it right. I am assuming the sensor has two wires per brake front and back, can I just connect the new yellow and black from new controller to the four wires red and blue on bike as has been done of old controller?
I am completely confused with the throttle wires 2 lots of wires go into the old controller 3 wire red, black and yellow and 2 wires red and black. The lights that are on a separate switch on handle bars, their wire a normal 2 strand black and white is Also connected to the cable connectors.
The red and black only line is connected to a green and red wire on the bike and the lights wire also goes into this connector.
The wires twist in the box the red black and yellow are connected to red black and yellow on bike, there is also a white and brown wire connected together in a loop.
The bike has a green amber and red light system that indicates battery power so some of these wires are redundant as the new panel does this on its own circuit but which ones? I would say the 3 wires are main ones red power black ground and yellow signal. The other wire I would say are the light controls if wires have not been twisted around. It will just leave reconnecting the lights switch to another power supply.
Sorry for long post nothing is ever straight forward.
Eddy

 

[Deleted member 4366]

PAS should work yellow to blue. If it doesn't work, try rotating the pedals backwards. If it works like that, you have to take the crank off and flip the magnet disc. You need a crank-puller tool for that which you can get from Ebay for about £3

The brake wires are simple switches, so it doesn't matter which way round they go, so two blues to black and two reds to green.

Your description of the throttle and lights is difficult to understand because of your incorrect use of punctuation, but I think I've figured out what you mean

If your throttle has no switch,but does have LEDs, there will be three wires for the throttle and one or two for the LEDs. I think you're saying red, black and yellow are the throttle wires, which go to the connector (orange, black and blue?). The red and black wires on the other connector will carry battery voltage to the LEDs, so they'd normally need to be connected to the battery wires, but they're redundant now because you have the LED panel. The wires for the lights will also need to be connected to the battery wires. They need to be the right way round. No harm will be done if you connect the wrong way, but the lights swill only work the correct way, so you have to try both ways to see what works. If you're saying that the lights are on the same connector as the re and black battery indicator wires, then you can cut the red wire to disable the LEDs.

The new panel gets all its power and functionality from it's four-wire connector on the controller.

To summarise:
Three throttle wires go to the three controller wires
Three PAS wires go to the three PAS wires on the controller
Two pairs of brake wires go to one pair on the controller either way round
The Panel joins to the controller with its 4-pin connector
The three motor phase wires go colour to colour on the controller
The five hall wires on the motor go colour to colour on the controller
The two light wires go to the battery wires the right way round

 

[scifibuff66]

Thanks for the quick reply, sorry about the punctuation.
I was looking at the bike and trying to get as much information down as quickly as possible, and I only gave it a quick re read before I posted.
Eddy

 

[scifibuff66]

Hi All again
I made a mistake, the throttle does have a switch that is below the 3 lights.
Eddy

 

[Deleted member 4366]

What did it do? Some are wired internally to switch off the throttle, in which case it''ll still be the same. Others run the wires externally to switch on/off the controller or lights.

 

[scifibuff66]

Hi again
I have replaced the controller and connected as instructed. PAS no problem, power to motor and panel no problem.
When the power cuts in while pedalling the motor makes a terrible banging noise as it spins. At a guess I would say even though I matched colours to the hall sensor connector, the old controller and the new controller wasn't the same.
Also on a test with the front brake on, the motor still started which would indicate a possibility that the brake cut off is also not working.
I have not connected the throttle as it is against the law to use this in Spain.
I am thinking I have probably done some damage to the motor so could be a complete rebuild or new bike.
Eddy

 

[scifibuff66]

Hi all
I think I have sorted it. Decided to re-the hall sensor connections and connect the throttle. The motor is running fine now, I think it might have been a loose connection.
The only thing not able to get working are the lights, I connected them to the power supply to the LED panel and all three old LED lights are on but main lights still not working. Maybe the voltage is too low?.
Anyway thanks for help.
Happy New year
Eddy