Viking MT Tobin controller problem

[wheeliepete]

If you only have 4 wires on your old analog LED display connector, then the LCD you linked to on post #34 is not going to work as it is 5 wire and digital. Having said that, it will work with the new KT controller you bought, but you will need the new 4 to 1 cable to connect them together.

 

[Quantums]

There should be four wires in the connector. Red is from the battery. Black is from the battery. They power the control panel. When you operate the switch on the panel, it switches on a blue wire that provides power to the controller. The fourth wire is green and is the pedal assist power wire. Again, if yours is not like this, please say how it is.

Yes there is red, green, yellow, and blue wire on the display- But there are 7 wires coming from the main controller unit

 

[vfr400]

Which control panel did you buy, the LCD3 or the one we told you to buy?

 

[Quantums]

Which control panel did you buy, the LCD3 or the one we told you to buy?

KT LCD 8

 

[vfr400]

KT LCD8 is not compatible with the controller you show at the beginning of the thread. Why did you buy it? It seems a bit irrational after forum members told you what to buy. Are you in discussion with someone else?

 

[Quantums]

I just tried attaching the battery and pressed the display and the display came on. However the weird thing is that there is a green wire from the handlebar display but at the bottom where the wired trails down inside the tube there is no green wire but at the top the wires split three ways and I guess the other two are the cadence sensor wires for the brakes? It must be the 3 model then

 

[wheeliepete]

the weird thing is

......that my head has not exploded

 

[vfr400]

Do not try to connect that control panel to the controller that you showed at the beginning of the thread. It's not compatible.

 

[Nealh]

Problem is OP's ask for help and then don't read advice given.
Compatibility issues then arise when they buy anything that takes their fancy.

 

[Nealh]

I just tried attaching the battery and pressed the display and the display came on. However the weird thing is that there is a green wire from the handlebar display but at the bottom where the wired trails down inside the tube there is no green wire but at the top the wires split three ways and I guess the other two are the cadence sensor wires for the brakes? It must be the 3 model then

The display may switch on but all or some other functions won't work.

LCD displays are 5 wire (uart comms ) and communicate with more info via a paired compatible controller, extra functions and parameters are available that can be adjusted by the end user.

LED are 4 wire (analog) and don't have these extra functions they are basic on/off switches with battery led indicator and 3 power levels. They don't have the extra GREEN comms wire which you are mentioning that the LCD has.

 

[scott gaza]

Hi Quantums. Don't go cutting wires just yet! Am I right you have already bought a new controller and display ? They are both compatible except you are missing the main wiring loom that connects them together, try and contact vendor of you're controller and get the 4 in 1 lead for £6.90 it has 2 x red 1 x green and the 1 x yellow display connection you need as mentioned by wheeliepete! The one on the controller is orange and is for pas. I use the same system myself. looks like the same as on the new Viking mt tobin system. Could you post pictures of the motor/battery connections you have on you're bike?

 

[Quantums]

Hi Quantums. Don't go cutting wires just yet! Am I right you have already bought a new controller and display ? They are both compatible except you are missing the main wiring loom that connects them together, try and contact vendor of you're controller and get the 4 in 1 lead for £6.90 it has 2 x red 1 x green and the 1 x yellow display connection you need as mentioned by wheeliepete! The one on the controller is orange and is for pas. I use the same system myself. looks like the same as on the new Viking mt tobin system. Could you post pictures of the motor/battery connections you have on you're bike?

Thanks but too late. Wires are cut.

IT was Topbikekit sales that posted the parts links to me to buy, and I asked them if they would fit together and I posted pictures of my bike old controller etc., OK, and they said yes. But they sent 2 female connectors at the handlebar display and 1 too large connector at the controller. How do I know it is actually not the hub motor at fault? Looks like I am going to have to buy the whole kit again. Also not sure if I have to buy a compatible magnet too? TO be honest I don't like the LCD displays I liked the simple controller I had that came with the bike. This is my bike here but its out of warranty. e-bikesdirect.co.uk/brands/viking/viking-mt-tobin-electric-mountain-bike

 

[scott gaza]

O WELL put it down to experience then or you could get a pas for £5.35 and £6.90 for 4 in 1 cable, and solder all the cut wires together.

 

[Quantums]

This is the one I had recommended topbikekit.com/36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html

Also they said to buy the KT LCD 8s color display https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/KT-LCD8S-Meter-display-with-Julei-5pins-waterproof-connector-for-ebike-KT-display-meter-KT-LCD8S/4709069_32967889146.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.149038989VTD5V

 

[Quantums]

Hi Quantums. Don't go cutting wires just yet! Am I right you have already bought a new controller and display ? They are both compatible except you are missing the main wiring loom that connects them together, try and contact vendor of you're controller and get the 4 in 1 lead for £6.90 it has 2 x red 1 x green and the 1 x yellow display connection you need as mentioned by wheeliepete! The one on the controller is orange and is for pas. I use the same system myself. looks like the same as on the new Viking mt tobin system. Could you post pictures of the motor/battery connections you have on you're bike?

Looks like I am going to have to buy the whole kit again and not sure about having to buy a magnet also? Are you talking about this one? topbikekit.com/1electric-bike-waterproof-cable-connector-for-meterbrake-and-throttle-p-523.html

 

[scott gaza]

They even have a diagram of all the wire identifications. PS: yes electric-bike-waterproof-cable-connector-for-meter brake-and-throttle. meter is display, aka 4 in 1 cable. It connects to the medium size connection out of the three available.

 

[Quantums]

The display may switch on but all or some other functions won't work.

LCD displays are 5 wire (uart comms ) and communicate with more info via a paired compatible controller, extra functions and parameters are available that can be adjusted by the end user.

LED are 4 wire (analog) and don't have these extra functions they are basic on/off switches with battery led indicator and 3 power levels. They don't have the extra GREEN comms wire which you are mentioning that the LCD has.

Actually my handlebar display the original one had 5 power levels. See picture in earlier posts

 

[wheeliepete]

original one had 5 power levels

You were lucky, most have 2 or 3, but your new LCD8 has 5, so happy days. Lets try and salvage something from this mess and start again Have you removed any connectors from your new controller?

 

[Quantums]

You were lucky, most have 2 or 3, but your new LCD8 has 5, so happy days. Lets try and salvage something from this mess and start again Have you removed any connectors from your new controller?

no I just cut the plug off to access all the wires on the display and also the controller lead which goes I think to the display as people said here

 

[wheeliepete]

OK, I think that's a no, does your pedal sensor fit the small yellow connector on the controller?