Very Bright Very Cheap Light runs from battery

Somebody recommended these a couple of weeks ago, so I ordered a couple. Whoever it was, thanks.

 

We just fitted one, which didn't take long. They come with a L- shaped bracket, which we smashed it flat with a big hammer. we then enlarged a hole and bolted it directly to the fork crown. It's very bright and gives a nice even spread of light to enable riding on unlit roads and cycle paths - probably as much light as those single Cree T6 type, but a better spread.

 

Their main advantage is that they run directly from any battery up to 60v, so no dc/dc converter required. There's a little circuit board stuffed in the back. To make it waterproof, you should seal round the bracket with silicne sealant or similar.

 

There's no switch, so you have to add your own. I think I paid about £20 for them, but when I just checked, I see that they're only £4.53, which is the bargain of the century. I just ordered another two.

 

http://www.banggood.com/Motorcycle-Bicycle-Assist-Lamp-LED-Headlights-Modification-Spotlight-p-919876.html

Which lens type did you go with?

Good find I'll order some of them as that controller has a light output if I remember, wonder if I could use some red filter gel and have one at the back as well?

I think they're Astigmatic lenses because I didn't select, and that's the default. does that mean a good even spread?

 

Good find I'll order some of them as that controller has a light output if I remember, wonder if I could use some red filter gel and have one at the back as well?

 

Good point. Many controls with LCD or LED panels have the switch and connector for lights that can run from the battery. the one we fitted to was a KU93 controller that doesn't have that switch.

 

We just need a 36v rear light to go with it.

Nice find Dave,

The expression cheap as chips comes to mind, but seems a tad expensive when you can buy a complete bike for a fiver;)

BTW, the blurb says up to 80v:eek:

 

We just need a 36v rear light to go with it.

 

These are good:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-4-Color-LED-Day-Spot-Light-Motorcycle-Car-Truck-Bulb-Lamp-12-80V-LS4G-/131004478373?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

 

But worth sealing the cable entry with a bit of silicon and angling downwards onto the road to prevent glare.

Thanks, ordered one this morning.

I think they're Astigmatic lenses because I didn't select, and that's the default. does that mean a good even spread?

 

 

 

Good point. Many controls with LCD or LED panels have the switch and connector for lights that can run from the battery. the one we fitted to was a KU93 controller that doesn't have that switch.

 

We just need a 36v rear light to go with it.

I posted about them previously but dont really need any more lights

Astigmatic would be un focused so a wide beam would make sense.

For a tail light I just used a red photography gel to cover the lens on their earlier version of these lights, works well.

Their main advantage is that they run directly from any battery up to 60v,

 

It says upto 80v in the description.

Thanks for the tip. This should mean no wasteful DC-DC converters for me

I think they're Astigmatic lenses because I didn't select, and that's the default. does that mean a good even spread?

Dave,

If you measure the length of your light from front to back, that should clear up which lens type it is that you have bought.

According to the web page, 6cm from front to back makes it a condensing lens, and 6.5cm makes it astigmatic. HTH.

I just ordered a pair of these last week:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221383200009

 

I'm hoping they work out well, and maybe I can also run just one during the day, and have hi/lo for night use (I ride to work early in the mornings, but riding home is between 3-30 and 4PM).

 

Also managed to get a 36V rear light too

d8veh, is there any scope with the bang good light for getting into the casing, and importantly electronics, without destroying it?

I'd like to fit a small jack socket to the case, so that I can run the light off the jack plug from the CA.

Want to make it as professional looking as possible.

 

When you receive your new light NZgeek, could you let me know if it's possible with your style of casing too please.

Let me try and describe it: The back is sort of hollow - about 25mm diameter and 30 to 40mm deep. Inside, floats a PCB, which is covered in shrink-sleeve. I think it's a DC/DC converter, but it might be the driver for the LEDs. There's two short wires between the inner end of the PCB and the back of the LEDs, which prevent you pulling the PCB right out. On the inner end are two long wires to connect it to a battery and swiitch. The bracket screws to the back and holds the PCB inside, but there's gaps, which we filled with silicone sealant to keep the PCB dry. The bracket is 1mm pressed mild steel.

I just ordered a pair of these last week:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221383200009

 

I'm hoping they work out well, and maybe I can also run just one during the day, and have hi/lo for night use (I ride to work early in the mornings, but riding home is between 3-30 and 4PM).

 

Also managed to get a 36V rear light too

 

Thanks for the detailed answer d8veh.

 

NZgeek, if you're feeling brave when you receive your lights, I would be grateful if you could see if it's possible to get to the electronics inside the casing.

Please don't break them though

Check the bike magazines now and again, I remember when I went to the london bike show a couple of the magazines we walked away with had offers of a free pair of tyres if you spend £15 on a 6 month subscription.

NZgeek, if you're feeling brave when you receive your lights, I would be grateful if you could see if it's possible to get to the electronics inside the casing.

Please don't break them though

 

I break stuff all the time... and hopefully fix it - It's my Job I'm thinking about something similar as a possibilty anyway. I'll let you know... if they ever get here - there are some very slow boats from China, I'm told.

NZgeek, if you're feeling brave when you receive your lights, I would be grateful if you could see if it's possible to get to the electronics inside the casing.

Please don't break them though

 

Easy Peasy! One screw, turn and pull:

 

I'm going to add somme glue, or foam to stop the innards rattling around - they look pretty bright, but probably not upto the level of proper expensive lights.

Easy Peasy! One screw, turn and pull:

 

I'm going to add somme glue, or foam to stop the innards rattling around - they look pretty bright, but probably not upto the level of proper expensive lights.

 

Excellent mate Looks like plenty of room for adding a small jack socket and a switch. Nice find

I'll try to get piccies on the actual light output... hopefully they're reasonable - I'm not sure wheather to aim one really high, as a "high beam" and switch it, or just have them both on all the time. Depsnds on the output I guess.

My light arrived today, will get it fitted Asap.

 

My light arrived today, will get it fitted Asap.

 

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Did you order the light from Gdread's post, coz it looks different from the one on his link?

 

Gdread's original post:

 

These are good:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-4-...4G-/131004478373?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

 

But worth sealing the cable entry with a bit of silicon and angling downwards onto the road to prevent glare.

Did you order the light from Gdread's post, coz it looks different from the one on his link?

 

Gdread's original post:

 

These are good:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-4-...4G-/131004478373?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

 

But worth sealing the cable entry with a bit of silicon and angling downwards onto the road to prevent glare.

 

 

No its the original that Dave recommended start of thread, just been testing it, works great, very bright. But thanks for the link.

Got a few of D8veh's recommended type also, but I am unsure how best to get it wired up to my battery (Impulse 2 36v 17aH) any idea how might be best to wire it up, I can manage to add in a switch all right, just making the connections to the batt is a bit beyond my pay scale!

 

Thx for any advice.

I have wired mine from the power wires at the controller, so just tapped in

On the cables. Not on the controller side of connectors, in case of replacing controller at some point if you have bullet connectors. I doubled the insulation on cables for the light cable too using heat shrink. But thats just my preference. Mine works well, I made bracket fit on the stem handle bar 4 bolt, so I can point it down easy.

You could fit a separate inline fuse, I havent though, I like the sparks effect.