V-Brakes grabbing question

[Wayners]

My 10+ year old V-brakes are grabbing on both the front and back wheels giving uneven braking?
Worth replacing levers and blocks or other problem?
Front wheel is a new 250w hub .

Current breaks are unbranded and low quality I guess, based on everything else ok on bike.
For £15 I could replace with Clarks to try and improve braking?
Thanks

 

[sjpt]

Cable is as likely (or more) than the levers or brakes. Are the screws holding the brakes to the support properly tightened (not too much) and the support clean and properly lubricated?

 

[Wayners]

New inner cable fitted and new brake leavers with motor cutout switches built in.

The bike was left in a garden for 3 years so I've replaced many rusty parts. The adjustment screws on the actual brakes don't seem to do much and I feel even with new grease applied they don't move for adjustment as they should. I also had difficulty getting pads to sit correctly and still don't think they are.
It seems like both rims are not true but is that possible? and can they be fixed if that's the case?
I'm thinking new brakes first?

 

[saneagle]

You should look at the gap between the two brake arms that hold the blocks. The arms should be approximately parallel when the blocks touch the rim. If they're a long way from parallel, you need to swap the spacers around. I sometimes add washers to the flat side of the spacers to get closer to parallel. You don't have to get it exact.

Before you do that, you should true your rims, otherwise you have to have too much gap between the blocks.

 

[Wayners]

Think I need a wheel truing stand then.
I know the back axel is not right having swapped it for a new one that didn't fit properly, so I used one old cone and some washers to get it to fit.
Think I need a new back wheel and true that and the test the front wheel
Any recommendations for stand to do it?

Other option is take wheel to bike shop and get them to do it?

 

[Raboa]

Here are my recommendations for the brakes
1. Fit Jagwire compressionless housing
2. Fit Koolstop Supra 2 brake blocks
3. Take the brakes off and clean the frame brake attachments and apply a very small layer of grease.
4. If this does not work then buy a new brakes, they are not that expensive. If you do this I would still recommend doing 1 and 2 when pads wear out
I have used this for brakes and other parts, you might find a cheap wheel.

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[Nealh]

If the inner wire was bad or corroded then the outers will also be so, bets to swpa out both inners and outers in case of any snags.
The best upgrade though are HDB's but will cost a bit more money though depends if the forks are Disc capable.

 

[Wayners]

Forks don't have disc mounts. Could not find any online either that would fit

 

[Raboa]

What size wheels do you have? I have a new unused 26" wheel disk compatible fork
Measure the internal space between the dropouts before buying new wheel, this can vary.

 

[esuark]

it all starts mounting up cos you'll need disc capable wheels as well as the disc brakes..............

 

[Wayners]

What size wheels do you have? I have a new unused 26" wheel disk compatible fork
Measure the internal space between the dropouts before buying new wheel, this can vary.

Forks are for a 26 Inch wheel. 1 Inch steerer threaded that's 175mm long, although they can be cut. I could not find one online that size that would take a disc

 

[Wayners]

it all starts mounting up cos you'll need disc capable wheels as well as the disc brakes..............

Front wheel is disc ready hub motor fortunately

 

[jimriley]

If you are replacing the brakes, try magura hydraulic rim brakes, I recently swapped the v brakes on my hybrid for maguras sourced on eBay. There are some copies available too, as well as s/h ones.

 

[Wayners]

If you are replacing the brakes, try magura hydraulic rim brakes, I recently swapped the v brakes on my hybrid for maguras sourced on eBay. There are some copies available too, as well as s/h ones.

Wonder if I could get them with switches to cut hub motor? I have ebike

 

[Raboa]

I have never used these, I imagine other variants are available

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[FastFreddy2]

I have a MTB ebike.
I'm running 26- 1.35 road tyres at 80psi with no suspension and its a hard ride!

Forks don't have disc mounts. Could not find any online either that would fit

Where are you looking?






I've acquired working bikes for free on Freecycle, and our council recycling centres have whole bikes looking for new homes at realistic prices. I haven't ridden a bike with v-brakes for 20+ years and as long as your hub has the means of attaching a disc, I would strongly recommend at least the front brake is a disc.

On the downside, an inexpensive elastomer suspension fork will dramatically increase the weight at the front of your bicycle, as likely did fitting the electric hub.

26" or greater rigid forks with the caliper bush, are aimed at the gravel/racer crowd and can come up quite expensive if made of carbon, but these seem a reasonable price?




The suspension option seems more attractive overall though....

OOPS!

This was added while I was writing/searching.....

Forks are for a 26 Inch wheel. 1 Inch steerer threaded that's 175mm long, although they can be cut. I could not find one online that size that would take a disc

 

[jimriley]

Wonder if I could get them with switches to cut hub motor? I have ebike

I bought a pair of magnetic switches , glued with superglue onto the brake levers.

 

[FastFreddy2]

Forks are for a 26 Inch wheel. 1 Inch steerer threaded that's 175mm long, although they can be cut. I could not find one online that size that would take a disc

Eureka ??

1" threaded suspension fork with disc mount




Steerer is 180mm long so suitable?

 

[Wayners]

Eureka ??

1" threaded suspension fork with disc mount

View attachment 52790


Steerer is 180mm long so suitable?

Thanks

They look almost identical to the original zoom suspension forks I took off. The problem is the motor rubs against the forks. I need the fixing to be inline with the inside of forks to take hub motor without rubbing

 

[saneagle]

Think I need a wheel truing stand then.
I know the back axel is not right having swapped it for a new one that didn't fit properly, so I used one old cone and some washers to get it to fit.
Think I need a new back wheel and true that and the test the front wheel
Any recommendations for stand to do it?

Other option is take wheel to bike shop and get them to do it?

You don't need a truing stand. Turn the bike upside down. Sit on a stool or chair with the wheel between your legs. You use the brakes as a guide. Adjust them until the wheel touches when it spins. Wherever the rim touches, adjust the nipples for the spokes on the other side 1/4 turn to pull it away. Repeat until the wheel runs true.

If you don't already have a spoke key, get one that holds the spoke on four sides like this, but make sure it's the right size for your nipples. Look at the slot. It's diamond-shaped not square. If you have a motor wheel with 13g spokes, you'll need two keys because normal spokes are 14g or less: