Using Lithium batteries in parallel?

anotherkiwi

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I am looking for a low thrust (18 lb) motor and on most of the spec sheets they say 15 or 20 Amps, the one in the link is two speed 7-15 Amp. A single 10000 mAh 10C multistar pack can supply 7 Amps without shedding a pearl of sweat. Two in parallel would be a whole week of evenings of squid fishing at 15 Amps, I only need to go about 400 metres each way!
 
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Deleted member 4366

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I am looking for a low thrust (18 lb) motor and on most of the spec sheets they say 15 or 20 Amps, the one in the link is two speed 7-15 Amp. A single 10000 mAh 10C multistar pack can supply 7 Amps without shedding a pearl of sweat. Two in parallel would be a whole week of evenings of squid fishing at 15 Amps, I only need to go about 400 metres each way!
Can't you get a bigger motor and go and catch some real fish, like tuna? For Christs sake, even pilchards are better than squid! Next, you'll be saying that you'd prefer octopus, but you could save a lot of trouble and waste by eating your old inner tubes instead.
 

anotherkiwi

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Tuna (red) is illegal. Some days that is all there is in the water just offshore! Tuna (white) is 20 miles offshore, the other day there were catches at about 10 miles which is rare. What is really nice and can be caught in the bay is Bonite https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atlantic_bonito. I have caught small ones from the jetty and a 3 kg one was powerful enough to tow me in the boat! Probably more power than the motor above...

You'll have to come over and taste some home caught squid cooked on the plancha. I also know a couple of pinxo bars where the octopus melts in the mouth, the Basques tend to know how to prepare fish. My favorite is fresh caught squid chopped up and fried in tempura batter with a squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper. :rolleyes:

I also know a couple of spots in the bay where I can try for sea bass and gilt head bream... I will definitely be trolling for spotted sea bass just behind the breakers.

This is what the trolling motor will be going on. For the moment it is a pile of wood in my bedroom/workshop.
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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Don't use recycled 18650s. A few of us have done it. The amount of sorting and testing you need to do, plus the risk of a fire and all the cuts and burns you get from doing it, to end up with a saggy battery that may never be safe to use and with dubious life-span, it's just not worth it if you aim is to end up with a working battery.
Noted, thanks. However, I was considering news cells but still with the DIY approach?
My advice is to get those 4S lipo hard-packs. They're pretty safe and easy to handle.
So, if I wanted 12V and say 50Ah (useable) I'd need 14 packs in parallel?
Do the balance board mod that I suggested earlier, and you end up with a plug-and-play battery.
Sorry, I see the balance board you mentioned but not the mod bit (but it's late and I'm tired) nor sure why or how I would use it (other than to balance multiple packs in parallel possibly). FWIW I have an iCharger 1010B+

Cheers, T i m
 
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So, if I wanted 12V and say 50Ah (useable) I'd need 14 packs in parallel?
They're 5Ah each, so 50Ah would be 10 bricks. You can plug 6 into the balance board. I'd plug in 5 and connect the lipo alarm to the 6th. When the voltage gets to 14v, unplug the 5 from the balance board and plug in the next 5, or have two banks of 5 with two alarms and two balance board, then you only have to swap over the main connector from each bank.

use one of these type of boxes to keep everything organised. You could mount the two connectors from each balance board to the top, so that you never need to remove the top for charging or discharging:

20170801_092556.jpg
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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They're 5Ah each, so 50Ah would be 10 bricks.
But isn't that assuming a 100% DOD or are LiPo's rated in their useable capacity (and if so, what DOD does that typically represent please)?
You can plug 6 into the balance board. I'd plug in 5 and connect the lipo alarm to the 6th. When the voltage gets to 14v, unplug the 5 from the balance board and plug in the next 5, or have two banks of 5 with two alarms and two balance board, then you only have to swap over the main connector from each bank.
So this is only regarding charging?
use one of these type of boxes to keep everything organised. You could mount the two connectors from each balance board to the top, so that you never need to remove the top for charging or discharging:
That looks a neat (and waterproof) solution. ;-)

OOI, I've seen 10,000 mAh LiPo packs but they are about 100 GBP. However, it would only take 5 (or 6?) to give me my 50Ah (useable) and would make the whole charging / balancing thing easier. However, at that price we are now way above the retail price of a ready-made solution using LiIon cells. ;-(

Cheers, T i m
 

anotherkiwi

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Oh look! https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-4s-16000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us

3 x 16 Ah pack = 48 Ah nominative (about 40 Ah on the water) for £180 and it only weighs 3.87 kg - 587 Wh at 80% of nominal capacity.

http://www.nootica.fr/bateau-moteur/moteur-electrique/batteries/batterie-marine-minn-kota-decharge-lente-62-ah.html

15 kg £92 and 480 Wh (new)

Check those Wh numbers again - a 40 Ah LiPo pack gives back more Wh than a 62 Ah lead acid. So for twice the price you get 100 Wh (20%) more and 10 kg less. Which would you rather carry down to the boat?
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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Nice find. ;-)
3 x 16 Ah pack = 48 Ah nominative (about 40 Ah on the water) for £180 and it only weighs 3.87 kg - 587 Wh at 80% of nominal capacity.
Sweet.
15 kg £92 and 480 Wh (new)
No, it's worse than that mate ...

http://www.phillipsmobility.co.uk/mk-gel-mobility-scooter-battery-m34-sldg-60ah-576-p.asp

And it's 17.5kg! ;-)
Check those Wh numbers again - a 40 Ah LiPo pack gives back more Wh than a 62 Ah lead acid. So for twice the price you get 100 Wh (20%) more and 10 kg less.
Or for about the same price even!
Which would you rather carry down to the boat?
Well, in practice I don't generally *carry* the battery very far or if I do, I stick it (and all the other junk) on a lightweight folding sack barrow, and once lowered into the boat it isn't really an issue till we lift the boat out again ...

However, part of the remit was to reduce the weight to something more manageable (say 10kgs) and (ideally) increase the run time.

So, can anyone (here) personally recommend that particular pack or HobbyKing as apparently they no longer offer a UK telephone contact and seem quite restrictive re personal collection. Not that need be a deal breaker, depending on what the panel here thinks?

Cheers and thanks again for the feedback and info. ;-)

T i m

p.s. Is the general thought to not use a BMS but a battery monitor / alarm for each pack when in use and a decent balance / charger for charging? Is there a hobby spec automatic cutoff that would handle 4S / 30A continuous ?
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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I am looking for a low thrust (18 lb) motor and on most of the spec sheets they say 15 or 20 Amps, the one in the link is two speed 7-15 Amp.
They were on sale at a boat show I went to to pick up my new Seahopper Kondor but I didn't get chance to check them out (too busy rowing and electric outboarding round the lake and on the Thames). ;-)

A single 10000 mAh 10C multistar pack can supply 7 Amps without shedding a pearl of sweat. Two in parallel would be a whole week of evenings of squid fishing at 15 Amps, I only need to go about 400 metres each way!
And that is a very tempting combo eh.

Ok, in the real world, what are the chances (and under what circumstances) am I ever likely to have any issues running a LiPo pack (or multiple packs in parallel) in my boat (assuming I'm not going to drop them on the ground from 500 feet or stab them with a knife etc). ;-)

Am I going to offset any battery weight savings because of the Nomex suits and fire extinguisher? ;-)

Cheers, T i m
 

anotherkiwi

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Human error is your worst enemy. A charging error is your highest risk. If you are worried you can put them in an army ammunition box. An aquarium thermometer has been mentioned on ES to keep an eye on temperature.

Thing is I don't check my LiPo's temperature when I run for long periods at 15 Amps... I was just checking out some future rides (in the car) earlier this evening and that would be 6 to 8 km of >7% climbs so say around 20 minutes at a time drawing between 10 and 15 Amps. I did the first time I did a long climb and the battery wasn't even warm so I no longer bother.

p.s. Is the general thought to not use a BMS but a battery monitor / alarm for each pack when in use and a decent balance / charger for charging? Is there a hobby spec automatic cutoff that would handle 4S / 30A continuous ?
Alarm on each pack set to 3.65 V/cell and a beefy balance charger. You have to be there when they are charging so best idea is to make that time as short as possible. The 300W Reaktor is a good economical choice, it is a repackaged iCharger which is a charger with a very good reputation. I have a couple of Reaktors in my kit. You will hear the alarms at sea, no need for a cutoff. They can be hard to hear in heavy traffic if your battery is in the bottom of a panier bag...

Remember, salt water is the best way of neutralising/killing a LiPo pack.
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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Human error is your worst enemy. A charging error is your highest risk.
So, am I right to conclude from that that assuming those things don't happen, these things are very very reliable / safe?
If you are worried you can put them in an army ammunition box.
I was thinking about that and wasn't sure if that would then turn it into a grenade?
An aquarium thermometer has been mentioned on ES to keep an eye on temperature.
Ok.
Thing is I don't check my LiPo's temperature when I run for long periods at 15 Amps... I was just checking out some future rides (in the car) earlier this evening and that would be 6 to 8 km of >7% climbs so say around 20 minutes at a time drawing between 10 and 15 Amps. I did the first time I did a long climb and the battery wasn't even warm so I no longer bother.
Something a mate once said that I've never forgotten (not only because he rarely said much of real value but that it has been really handy <g>) and that is 'You can manage what you can measure'. However (as you have already observed), once you have taken your measurements you rarely need to take them again. The exception being battery / cell volts, *unless* you have that automatically monitored etc (audible alarm / cut-out etc).
Alarm on each pack set to 3.65 V/cell and a beefy balance charger. You have to be there when they are charging so best idea is to make that time as short as possible. The 300W Reaktor is a good economical choice, it is a repackaged iCharger which is a charger with a very good reputation.
I have the 1010B+, will that do?
I have a couple of Reaktors in my kit. You will hear the alarms at sea, no need for a cutoff. They can be hard to hear in heavy traffic if your battery is in the bottom of a panier bag...
Ok
Remember, salt water is the best way of neutralising/killing a LiPo pack.
I'll need to take my own bag of salt then as we normally boat in freshwater. ;-)

So, those 16000 mA 4S Heli packs from HobbyKing seem very very cheap and I understand that is because of a reduced C rate that wouldn't impact me once I had at least two packs in parallel. Can we be sure that such (cheap) cells are intrinsically safe when compared with some twice the price? Is this just down to tighter margins / specials?

Cheers, I'm learning a lot here. ;-)

T i m
 

anotherkiwi

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So, am I right to conclude from that that assuming those things don't happen, these things are very very reliable / safe?

I was thinking about that and wasn't sure if that would then turn it into a grenade?
The ammo box stops projected flames from melting your plastic boat. LiPo doesn't explode it projects smoke/flames, watch those axe man/plane crash/car crash youtube videos again. Isn't there one that gets shot with a .38??? :rolleyes: Yes it is a violent projection of energy but doesn't get classed as an explosion in my book. An Ammo box is designed to prevent exploding munitions from doing too much damage so you can imagine a LiPo brick fire isn't going to scare it.

I have the 1010B+, will that do?
You would have wouldn't you... :mad: yep it is a 300 W 10 Amp charger. Great charger for home made 36V Li-Ion batteries without a BMS btw...

So, those 16000 mA 4S Heli packs from HobbyKing seem very very cheap and I understand that is because of a reduced C rate that wouldn't impact me once I had at least two packs in parallel. Can we be sure that such (cheap) cells are intrinsically safe when compared with some twice the price? Is this just down to tighter margins / specials?
10C x 10 Amps = 100 A or about 25 Amp real world discharge rate. You could run your motor at 15 Amps off one pack if you needed to (I do on a daily basis - 6S+4S 37 V 10 Ah battery), it has the juice. I am only going to use the 2 x 10000 mAh 4S for my boat because I have them on hand and am changing my LiPo strategy on my bike - moving up to 12S.

Most of us using LiPo on here wait for the special offers to get the most Ah for our buck. They are usually on sale several times a year.
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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This is what the trolling motor will be going on. For the moment it is a pile of wood in my bedroom/workshop.
She's going to be cute. ;-) I was looking (fairly recently) to build a light plywood rowing / outboarding skiff but really don't have the room or time (and why I ended up first with the 12' Porta-Bote and then, because it wasn't very rewarding to row, the 10' Seahopper Kondor).

Going back nearly 50 years ... at school woodwork lessons I didn't want to make bookends or a bathroom cabinet so I built a 6' pram dinghy. ;-)

We didn't have a steam box so I soaked the wood in the school swimming pool, collecting the bits from the bottom (weighed down by rubber bricks) as and when I needed them during swimming lessons. ;-)

Cheers, T i m
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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The ammo box stops projected flames from melting your plastic boat.
Or setting fire to your wooden boat / leg / coat / picnic in our case. ;-)
LiPo doesn't explode it projects smoke/flames, watch those axe man/plane crash/car crash Youtube videos again.
Yes, the videos seem to show a rapid expulsion or flame / gas and if allowed to vent away from anything combustible, are fairly short lived and so should be safe. Trap that pressure in a metal container with a rubber seal ... ? I'm not saying it wouldn't be fine or better than having them in a plastic box, just that when you see the HobbyKing 'Batbox', that seems to be more of what I would imagine would be a 'good solution' to the problem. And that brings me back to the safety thing ... it's obvious that LiPo (or lithium in general) seem to be more dangerous and I don't *remember* seeing so many charging / safety products surrounding most other rechargeable chemistries prior to Li? Lead acid batteries have been known to explode but that doesn't seem to be that common from simple overcharging? 'The nature of the beast' I guess and a 'cost' of having so much energy in such a small space?
Isn't there one that gets shot with a .38??? :rolleyes: Yes it is a violent projection of energy but doesn't get classed as an explosion in my book.
Agreed ... it's a little pocket sized flamethrower. ;-)
An Ammo box is designed to prevent exploding munitions from doing too much damage so you can imagine a LiPo brick fire isn't going to scare it.
Yes, you are probably right. ;-)
You would have wouldn't you... :mad:
Hey, that's about the only good thing I've got by the sounds of it. ;-(
yep it is a 300 W 10 Amp charger. Great charger for home made 36V Li-Ion batteries without a BMS btw...
Cool. ;-)
10C x 10 Amps = 100 A or about 25 Amp real world discharge rate. You could run your motor at 15 Amps off one pack if you needed to (I do on a daily basis - 6S+4S 37 V 10 Ah battery), it has the juice.
Yes, I was amazing at that ...
I am only going to use the 2 x 10000 mAh 4S for my boat because I have them on hand and am changing my LiPo strategy on my bike - moving up to 12S.
Makes sense. However, we are looking for longer than 400 yard trips <g> and a goal of being able to electric outboard all day.
Most of us using LiPo on here wait for the special offers to get the most Ah for our buck. They are usually on sale several times a year.
So that would be the likes of the HobbyKing 16A 4S's? Should I get several of those while I can and how sure that I'll not regret it (as it's going to be quite a financial commitment for us)?

Another thought that came to mind ... I see they (HK) do a 40A brushed esc for less than 10 quid ... if I stuck a servo tester on the front of it, (or I'd make my own using an Arduino) would I get a cheap PWM speed controller for my Minn Kota / Yamaha?

Cheers, T i m
 

anotherkiwi

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Another thought that came to mind ... I see they (HK) do a 40A brushed esc for less than 10 quid ... if I stuck a servo tester on the front of it, (or I'd make my own using an Arduino) would I get a cheap PWM speed controller for my Minn Kota / Yamaha?
There are howtos on Endless Sphere IIRC, they have an electric boat section :)
 
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You're getting all worked up about nothing. You need to be aware of the risks and you need to handle lipos properly, but you don't need to worry about them exploding spontaneously.

The main real dangers are:
Charging them incorrectly, especially after over-discharging.
Dropping a non-hard-pack
Shorting of any of the wires
Connecting them incorrectly
Piercing them

If you're going to put them in an ammo box, you might as well use a lead battery.

Avoid complicated parallel looms. that's why I recommend the balance board connection system. There's no wires other than what's already on the packs from the manufacturers, so nothing to short out. If you pack them in a light-weight plastic box, they will be protected from dropping and piercing.

In all the videos I've seen, where they were deliberately or accidentally set alight, the combustion started slowly. They start with fizzing and smoking. You'd have plenty of time to sling the box overboard. Personally, the last thing I'd ever do is chuck them in salt water. It's highly conductive. Probably, only one pack or cell would be burning. When you chuck the whole lot in salt-water, they'll all start burning at once. My mobile phone got totally burnt all around the battery connections when it went in salt water.

I used lipos for a couple of years on my electric bikes. they got a lot of abuse - bumped about in my panniers, dropped on the floor, etc, but they never caught fire. I had several big flashes and burns when I connected them up incorrectly. see this burn on my forefinger:

Burn_zpsf37f4e71 (1).JPG

I'm perfectly relaxed using lipos with my trolling motor on my inflatable dinghy. It's nothing to worry about provided that you know how to handle them.
 

T i m

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Nov 28, 2009
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You're getting all worked up about nothing.
With respect, I'm not 'getting worked up' about anything, this is a new field for me, we are talking a lot of money and it's not just me on a bicycle on the road (when talking about the on-topic use of LiPo's here) but potentially my family, in a small wooden boat, some distance from the land (in time if not actual distance etc). So, part of my questioning here is playing devils advocate and testing for the 'worst case'. Once I know that I can then work back to a more 'real world' usage but whilst accepting there are (extra, over say lead acid) risks. ;-)
You need to be aware of the risks and you need to handle lipos properly, but you don't need to worry about them exploding spontaneously.
Understood.
The main real dangers are:
Charging them incorrectly, especially after over-discharging.
Dropping a non-hard-pack
Shorting of any of the wires
Connecting them incorrectly
Piercing them
Understood.
If you're going to put them in an ammo box, you might as well use a lead battery.
Depending on the size of the box of course. ;-) Whilst I get your point, I'm pretty sure 4 x 4s 16000mA LiPo packs, even in a small ammo box aren't going to be anywhere near the weight and size of my existing battery! ;-)
Avoid complicated parallel looms. that's why I recommend the balance board connection system. There's no wires other than what's already on the packs from the manufacturers, so nothing to short out.
Understood. That said, I am an electronics / field support tech (BT, Kodak, Datacomms Co) and have been soldering since I was about 7 and pride myself in both the care and neatness of my work. However, I have no issues re using a balance board either.
If you pack them in a light-weight plastic box, they will be protected from dropping and piercing.
I'm assuming that if I went with 4 x 4S, 16A LiPos ... and was drawing a continuous 15A for 3 hours, the batteries wouldn't suffer from lack of ventilation (cooling)?
In all the videos I've seen, where they were deliberately or accidentally set alight, the combustion started slowly. They start with fizzing and smoking. You'd have plenty of time to sling the box overboard.
.
That's the sort of practical / real-world advice that I like. ;-)
Personally, the last thing I'd ever do is chuck them in salt water. It's highly conductive. Probably, only one pack or cell would be burning. When you chuck the whole lot in salt-water, they'll all start burning at once. My mobile phone got totally burnt all around the battery connections when it went in salt water.
I guess that is like the 'what would I grab first when running away from your burning house'. Ignoring the idea that any reaction could make matters worse, I think once I saw smoke coming from my battery box I wouldn't be worrying about potentially throwing good packs away!
I used lipos for a couple of years on my electric bikes. they got a lot of abuse - bumped about in my panniers, dropped on the floor, etc, but they never caught fire. I had several big flashes and burns when I connected them up incorrectly. see this burn on my forefinger:
<burnt hand picture> Ouch. ;-( Trust me, with 48V (8 x 6V X 200Ah LA monoblocks) and a potentially massive short circuit current available in the EV I've had for over 30 years now, I treat all these things with a high level of caution and respect. ;-)
I'm perfectly relaxed using lipos with my trolling motor on my inflatable dinghy. It's nothing to worry about provided that you know how to handle them.
Quite, as I'm sure I will be, once I have some usage under my belt. Until then, I'll be proceeding with caution! ;-)

Thanks very much for your help and advice. It's all filed away and fully considered I promise. ;-)

Cheers, T i m
 
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Deleted member 4366

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You can theorise any problem, but the risk is very low in reality. Petrol is loads more dangerous that lipos. It catches fire more easily, burns at a much higher rate and is almost impossible to deal with, but hardly anybody thinks twice about filling up their outboard and going out on the sea. have a look at this Google search:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=outboard+caught+fire&rlz=1C1CHZL_enGB733GB733&oq=outboard+caught+fire&aqs=chrome..69i57.6832j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

In reality, there's probably more chance of getting run down by an errant speedboat or swamped by a rogue wave, but that doesn't stop us from going out either.
 

T i m

Pedelecer
Nov 28, 2009
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You can theorise any problem, but the risk is very low in reality.
I'm sure you are right, but keeping it in context (and comparing apples with apples), would you say Lithium batteries are *as safe* as Lead Acid (in general)? Yes/No ;-)
Petrol is loads more dangerous that lipos. It catches fire more easily, burns at a much higher rate and is almost impossible to deal with, but hardly anybody thinks twice about filling up their outboard and going out on the sea. have a look at this Google search:
Again, I'm sure you are right but this really isn't about questioning all the risks but just the comparison between what I already have / do and an alternative. I'm considering any potential *increase* in risk whilst still propelling my boat electrically.
In reality, there's probably more chance of getting run down by an errant speedboat or swamped by a rogue wave, but that doesn't stop us from going out either.
Well (and playing devils advocate again here), it (and other things, like tides etc) do stop me from going on such waters and that's why I don't. So, to fully understand my POV (re the risk analysis) you would have to know the environment of how 'we' (because there are generally others in my boat who would have a different POV on what could be considered 'risky' to me) do what we do. Like, if rowing along a slow moving river we wouldn't generally wear buoyancy aids because: 1) We are unlikely to fall in for any reason (we don't stand up or jump around) 2) could stand on the bottom in most places and 3) we can swim. We might however wear them when rowing across a deep lake because of the depth or when sailing when there are real risks of capsize.

Anyway and whilst talking of safety and with battery packs that have very low internal resistance and so potentially very high currents available ... if running multiple packs in parallel (where they are connected together all the time), is it common practice to protect each battery leg with a fuse or trip of some sort please (and if not why not)?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I've ordered some LiPos, monitors and some more foil to make a hat. ;-)
 

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