Got one of the 1000w hub motor kits for 154 quid off ebay a while ago, then later got another controller with lcd3 unit which is now running great once the correct p and c setting put in, and now wondering if i should get a 1500w controller for more torque, i know the battery can supply the juice but can the motor take it? last time i took it out for an extended run around my town and used most of a full charge(48v 10.4ah) the motor was only a bit warm.
upgrading from 1000w to 1500w controller
- Thread starter gkspud
- Start date
im confident the frame can handle it, upgraded to disk brakes and better forks few weeks ago and made a fair bit of difference over the v brakes and non dampened suspension, tho i need to get a new rear unit at some point.You've got a gearless direct drive wheel, so should be perfectly fine to pile on the power
im usually wearing my hardhat for work
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Deleted member 4366
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I don't think your battery can take it. 1000w controllers are normally 25 amps, which would be on the limit of your battery. unless you have something special, like Samsung 30Q cells. 10.4 Ah usually means 13S4P Samsung ICR18650- 26F, which give a maximum of 5.2 amps each. That's 20.8 amps total or 2C.
http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/ICR18650-26F.pdf
Tell us a bit more about your battery if that's not it.
http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/ICR18650-26F.pdf
Tell us a bit more about your battery if that's not it.
samsund 13q cells in 13s8p config, built from macallister garden tool batteries, i think they are 17 amps continuous a cell, 1300mah capacity not great but they were cheap, about 25 quid for 20 cells. battery wired direct rather than going through bms output but its only a 20amp one from the 48v pack i bought off ebay and later converted to 36v as it was full of recycled laptop cells unlike the one i built for cheaper, bms was also bypassed on that pack from "new", was using macallister pack as 36v but later added more cells from more macallister packs to make into the 48v it is now, forgot to get pics of it as 48v before boxed up.
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Deleted member 4366
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The battery should be OK then. Torque is proportional to current, so get a controller that gives more current. The 1000w/1500w is meaningless. Don't go by that or you could end up with lower power. Just go by the controller's maximum current.
current controller is 26A, have a choice between a 1200w 35A or 1500w 45A, looking at amps the 1500w is near double what i have and im guessing would top out near 2kw? maybe i should just get the 1200w one.
yeah got another bike to build up for then but unsure if should electrify at some point, its a merida 120 carbon got cheap off ebay, , prob want a mid drive or some light hub motor, getting nice bits for it is expensive tho.Yep, 30Q's are the way to go. Just saving up for a 13s5p myself. Roll on the Summer
Direct drive motors lack torque just by virtue of their design, and require bags of amps to get the best out of them. If the controllers are programmable, then I would go for the 45A.
You can always dial down the power, if it it too much for you or your battery.
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the 1500w controller is gonna be a pain to mount
tho if you know of an alternative that works with the lcd unit would consider that
Could you not mount it on a seat tube rack, something like this?the 1500w controller is gonna be a pain to mount
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Deleted member 4366
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45 amp controllers are normally massive. You should find 35 amps plenty enough.
You can get a bit more power out of your present one, which will be the easiest solution.
Add thick solder blobs to about 25% of the length of the shunt to take the current up to 33 amps. As long as you put it out where it can get decent airflow, it should be OK at that. Maybe do 10%, test it, then 20% test again, and then 25% if OK.
You can get a bit more power out of your present one, which will be the easiest solution.
Add thick solder blobs to about 25% of the length of the shunt to take the current up to 33 amps. As long as you put it out where it can get decent airflow, it should be OK at that. Maybe do 10%, test it, then 20% test again, and then 25% if OK.
could do, just the carrier currently has the battery on it, and the controller and wiring fits kinda neatly in a triangle of the frame, was thinking of hanging underneath where front frame mudguard used to sit, http://i.imgur.com/c4QENN5.jpg
will prob just pick up the 1200w, an extra 10 amps should be enough as i want to have some range left lol.