tyre pressure and punctures

billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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my 1st question is i have 24x175 bmx tyres on my electric bike I was pumping them up to 60 PSI front and back but noticed today it says inflate to 40 PSI on the Tyre rims which i have but it does seem a bit too soft would it hurt to increase to say 50 PSI

my 2nd question is whats a quick fix if you get a puncture miles from home. and no where near water to check tube. I was told about some foam you inject into Tyre to get you home. but dont know anything about whats it called or what to do. can someone help. btw i am in the UK
 

RobF

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Sep 22, 2012
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The pressure guide on the tyre is just that, but best not to go too far outside it.

I wouldn't put 60psi in a tyre marked for 40, but 50 is probably OK.

You can buy a tin of compressed air and sealant which is designed to seal and inflate a punctured tyre.

I've never used it, and much will depend on the size of the puncture.

Most cyclists carry a spare tube, but of course you have to be able to install it at the roadside.

https://www.evanscycles.com/zefal-sealant-spray-00104698
 
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billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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The pressure guide on the tyre is just that, but best not to go too far outside it.

I wouldn't put 60psi in a tyre marked for 40, but 50 is probably OK.

You can buy a tin of compressed air and sealant which is designed to seal and inflate a punctured tyre.

I've never used it, and much will depend on the size of the puncture.

Most cyclists carry a spare tube, but of course you have to be able to install it at the roadside.

https://www.evanscycles.com/zefal-sealant-spray-00104698

thats probably best idea to carry a spare tube. but that Zefal Sealant Spray looks good. will get a tin for emergencies. I have a Evans Cycle store here will it need to be removed when i get bike home. or just leave it in tyre, as i just assumed it means a quick fix to get you home

yes i will probably try 45 PSI of 50 PSI see how it goes

 
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Croxden

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Jan 26, 2013
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I've had success & a failure with the stuff Aldi have in occasionally.

The success was a thorn in the side of a Marathon about 7000 miles ago.

The failure was in the Hand Dampf front tyre on my Haibike, two containers
did nothing other than making twice the mess, to be cleaned up later. I went tubeless on that wheel.

So do I still carry one, yes but also have other precautions in hand.
 
D

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Punctures:

Is best not to get them. Use tyres like Schwalbe Marathon Plus with proper puncture protection. Ive had a 3" nail in my MP. Only an inch was showing, but it still didn't go through the tube. Have a look at this:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/do-puncture-resistant-tires-work.20489/

If you are unlucky enough to get a puncture, most can be fixed by the roadside with a puncture kit from Tescos. You don't need to take the wheel off. Just break the bead all round, then lever the tyre off on one side and pull the tube out. Pump a bit of air into it and run yout hand round. You can normally hear or feel the air coming out when your hand is close. Check from the puncture in the tube to its corresponding position in the tyre to see if whatever caused the puncture is still in the tyre. If you got a pinch-flat because your pressures were too low, there's normally two slits about 1 cm apart, so make sure you fix both of them. Use the sandpaper in the kit to clean up the surface of the inner tube where you want to stick the patch.Fix the puncture/s and re-assemble the tyre. That's it - about 10 minutes, and you're on your way.
 

Alan Quay

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 4, 2012
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Punctures:

Is best not to get them. Use tyres like Schwalbe Marathon Plus with proper puncture protection. Ive had a 3" nail in my MP. Only an inch was showing, but it still didn't go through the tube. Have a look at this:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/do-puncture-resistant-tires-work.20489/

If you are unlucky enough to get a puncture, most can be fixed by the roadside with a puncture kit from Tescos. You don't need to take the wheel off. Just break the bead all round, then lever the tyre off on one side and pull the tube out. Pump a bit of air into it and run yout hand round. You can normally hear or feel the air coming out when your hand is close. Check from the puncture in the tube to its corresponding position in the tyre to see if whatever caused the puncture is still in the tyre. If you got a pinch-flat because your pressures were too low, there's normally two slits about 1 cm apart, so make sure you fix both of them. Use the sandpaper in the kit to clean up the surface of the inner tube where you want to stick the patch.Fix the puncture/s and re-assemble the tyre. That's it - about 10 minutes, and you're on your way.
Sound advice, as ever.

I'd just add that if you can't feel the air with your hands (perhaps 'cos they'm all rough n manly) then use your face. Much more sensitive.

If you still can't feel the air escaping, put some air in it, it'll get you home but be flat in the morning.
 
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Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Eddie and SW swear by tubeless set ups and is generally probably very good unless your are unlucky and have a slashed tyre. Slime tubes are available already with the green gunk inside so should be self sealing, my self I'm old school and use plain tube set up and carry 2 spares with me and a puncture kit for back up.
 
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soundwave

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May 23, 2015
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if you go tubeless you can still use a inner tube as just remove the valve to put one in.

it might cost a bit to get a kit if the rim is not tubeless ready but its much better in the long run if you keep getting flats.

last 2 times up forest with my m8 he had two punctures and broke a spoke in his back wheel.

my bike is more than double his bikes waight and got none.;)
 

billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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if you go tubeless you can still use a inner tube as just remove the valve to put one in.

it might cost a bit to get a kit if the rim is not tubeless ready but its much better in the long run if you keep getting flats.

last 2 times up forest with my m8 he had two punctures and broke a spoke in his back wheel.

my bike is more than double his bikes waight and got none.;)

Thanks all will take note of all your replies
 

Twinkleten

Pedelecer
Apr 18, 2015
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Any thoughts on the merits (or otherwise) of Hydraulic Hub brakes as opposed to Rim brakes (Hydro or cable) when removing wheels for a puncture repair? Are there any special precautions necessary?
 

Alan Quay

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Dec 4, 2012
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Any thoughts on the merits (or otherwise) of Hydraulic Hub brakes as opposed to Rim brakes (Hydro or cable) when removing wheels for a puncture repair? Are there any special precautions necessary?
At the risk of inviting the wrath of old Billy Bob (since he's made a staggering 34 posts it's his forum apparently, and he can decide how the conversation progresses!)

Removing/replacing a wheel with disk brakes is easier than with rim brakes. There's no faffing about with cables/noodles/adjusters. Just turn it upside down and take the wheel out. Very easy.

Just don't squeeze the levers until the disk is back in.
 
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Nealh

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Little tip when you remove the wheel if you haven't got a plastic disc pad spacer use some folded card board to use instead, that way if you accidently apply the brakes you won't have to pry the pads apart..
 
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Nealh

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you need to make your own posts not jump onto other peoples
A simple question on a related topic hardly warrants a new thread to be started.
 

anotherkiwi

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Jan 26, 2015
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Magura hydraulic rim brakes have a quick release lever. I know, oh the complication of releasing two quick release levers instead of one :rolleyes:
 
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Alan Quay

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Dec 4, 2012
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Magura hydraulic rim brakes have a quick release lever. I know, oh the complication of releasing two quick release levers instead of one :rolleyes:
I'm not saying its hard with either, just that the easiest is disk.

Here's the routine I use for removing a wheel from a bike with cable V-brakes.

1. Turn the bike over.
2. Release the skewer.
3. Attempt wheel removal.
4. Remember you didn't release the brakes.
5. Attempt to release the brakes with the bike upside down. This is awkward, and usually fails.
6. Turn the sodding thing back over, and prop it up somewhere.
7. Release the brake cable. If its a bit tight, run the barrel adjuster in.
8. Repeat 1-3
 
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billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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Thanks Alan, just the sort of information I needed. :)
I am posting here so as to apologies to you for my shocking behavior. I wasn't having a good day, when i said what i did. I was just going by other forums where as they dont allow that. But it was very rude of me and i hope you can forgive me

This also applies to all here too,
 
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