TSDZ2 non-drive side crank binding against BB when tightened

Peddlin' Pedro

Pedelecer
Jan 22, 2017
144
65
West Sussex, UK
Apologies if this is covered elsewhere but a search didn't show anything immediately related.

On fitting the non-drive side crank to the TDSZ2 today and tightening to a (very) modest 35 N m, the crank arm bottomed out and bound completely against the unit's BB face.

Is this a known issue or have I just been unlucky and got a crank made of cheddar?
 

peter.c

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 24, 2018
1,612
493
thurrock essex
The cranks are made of cheese and the taper is far worse than before, my last tsdz2build had to use the original cranks quality has gone to cheap and cheerful suspect the casting mould is near end of life
For latest bike have gone back to a bafang mid -drive
 
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Swizz

Pedelecer
Oct 1, 2017
211
161
49
Sk14
Apologies if this is covered elsewhere but a search didn't show anything immediately related.

On fitting the non-drive side crank to the TDSZ2 today and tightening to a (very) modest 35 N m, the crank arm bottomed out and bound completely against the unit's BB face.

Is this a known issue or have I just been unlucky and got a crank made of cheddar?
I have replaced mine with Bafang ones for a narrower q factor, so have a pair going spare unless you take a punt on some Bafang ones too
 
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Gavin

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 11, 2020
316
179
Thank you. Think I’ll grab some Bafang ones instead though. Bloody annoying as thought I’d finally get it on the road this weekend
There was another guy on here a few weeks ago with a similar problem, so you're not alone.

This suggestion is a bit brutal, but if you're desperate to get rolling this weekend you could always use an angle grinder/ flap disc and remove some meat from the back of the arm- you only need a little bit of clearance...
 
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Peddlin' Pedro

Pedelecer
Jan 22, 2017
144
65
West Sussex, UK
This suggestion is a bit brutal, but if you're desperate to get rolling this weekend you could always use an angle grinder/ flap disc and remove some meat from the back of the arm- you only need a little bit of clearance...
In line with your suggestion I decided to at least get it running and check for any other issues with the unit before spending money on other parts. I put the crank in the vice and took a file to it; had to remove around 1.5-1.8mm to get adequate clearance at 35 N-m. Hoping to get it going this afternoon, if it stops raining.

Does mean it currently has a hefty NDS q-offset of around 15mm, which is pretty bad. Will need to deal with that.
 
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