August 16, 20205 yr Dear e-bikers, I ran into a problem, cannot figure out what to do next. I kindly ask for your help. Almost new Tsdz2 48V 750w stopped working during the ride. The display (VLCD6) switches on, it indicates one bar battery charge (although the battery is charged to ~80%). Walk assist (holding "+") is not functioning either. The booting routine is strange - when I turn on the display it immediately shows one bar battery, there is no sense of loading/calibrating process (i.e. when all battery bars on the display light up for a second or so and then settle on the actual battery charge level, as it used to be when the tsdz2 was functioning fine). I have checked all cables outside and speed sensor, however, I have not yet dismantled the motor. I have riden it 100km without putting too much stress on the motor, all was working fine (maybe some weird noises from time to time, although I cannot claim that they were 'problematic'). The battery is 12Ah with Sony cells, made by German pro's (enerprof.de), so I exclude the battery problem. It was my first conversion project, and I feel so dissapointed that I was able to ride it only 100km : ( Please advise me, where should I start? Is there a troubleshooting routine? I have purchased it from pswpower. Is there a some kind of hard reset, to try to properly reboot the system? Or it is likely a hardware problem...? I'd greatly appreciate your help.
August 16, 20205 yr It sounds like it's hit the LVC What voltage is the battery showing? (Forget how many bars are on the display)
August 16, 20205 yr Author It sounds like it's hit the LVC What voltage is the battery showing? (Forget how many bars are on the display) It now shows 49.7V via multimeter (VTC6 cells).
August 16, 20205 yr It now shows 49.7V via multimeter (VTC6 cells). Does the problem go away when the battery is charged back up. Fully charged should be around 54.5v... Also, just a thought here- is the motor running 52v firmware?
August 16, 20205 yr Author Does the problem go away when the battery is charged back up. Fully charged should be around 54.5v... Also, just a thought here- is the motor running 52v firmware? Thanks, Gavin, for your prompt reaction. I will fully recharge the battery in the morning and report back. As regards 52v firmware - I have no clue how to check it, VLCD6 functionality is rather limited.
August 16, 20205 yr Forget the battery bars how many miles have you done since the last charge ?If 100km on one charge that is excellent range Edited August 16, 20205 yr by peter.c
August 16, 20205 yr Author Forget the battery bars how many miles have you done since the last charge ? Approx 20 miles. The battery was charged ~70-80%.
August 16, 20205 yr That is ok if on high assist range is dependant on terrain rider weight wind etc all quoted ranges are on low levels of assist at legal speed limit and max human effort I have 17.5 ah battery lg cells from psw and pushed hard 25-30 mile range is normal But in eco and at lower speed 50-60 miles range is still hard to achieve Not used that display but the vlc5 and x18 battery bars are not accurate and the new factory 850 version is even worse
August 16, 20205 yr Author That is ok if on high assist range is dependant on terrain rider weight wind etc all quoted ranges are on low levels of assist at legal speed limit and max human effort I have 17.5 ah battery lg cells from psw and pushed hard 25-30 mile range is normal But in eco and at lower speed 50-60 miles range is still hard to achieve Not used that display but the vlc5 and x18 battery bars are not accurate and the new factory 850 version is even worse Thanks! Now the battery is at 49.7V, the motor should not cut off. Total weight - 120kg (inc. bike), terrain - almost flat, few light uphills, average speed 25 km/h, assist level 2 and occasionally 3. I still think something is not right, but I will see if there are changes when the battery is fully charged.
August 16, 20205 yr The fully charged battery will tell the 54v+, on load voltage sag might be below the low voltage cut off this set by the display [this is factory setting ] by the time you tested with a multi meter it can bounce back up The current drawn by the motor is 15 amps+ under load in bursts and the running current is less with human effort added if you have a throttle the range is drastically reduced
August 17, 20205 yr Author Battery is charged to 54.2V. Motor doesn't work, shows one battery bar. What else could I do?
August 17, 20205 yr So has this kit ever worked properly or have you not had it long enough to tell? Basics first- make sure all connectors are clean and properly seated. If you're running ancilliaries (lights, throttle etc then disconnect them) If it's voltage sag as [mention=19370]peter.c[/mention] suggested then an inline voltmeter wired into the battery line will show it. They only cost a few quid. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Monitor-LCD-Watt-Meter-Ammeter-RC-Battery-Power-Amp-Analyzer-DC-60V-100A/402359623397?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225120%26meid%3Dd357461a348a49619f99da2bdf660218%26pid%3D100935%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D143672794228%26itm%3D402359623397%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV1Filter%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c100935.m2460 I'm still wondering if it's a mismatched controller and/ or display voltage. Have a read of this post and you'll see why I say that. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/tongsheng-tsdz2-making-a-weird-noise-after-10-minutes-use.37402/#post-569015 Once you've eliminated the basics it might be worth contacting the retailer of the kit....
August 17, 20205 yr Remove the supply [battery] wires leave powered off for a while then reconnect The display or controller could be the problem as both are flashed for volts and settings and unlike a bafang you cannot just use another model some are 6 wire and some 8 wire and the 2020 motors are different again The model i use most is the vlc5 tried the basic 18 model, and the new colour version based on the 850c from the factory does not improve matters
September 2, 20205 yr Author I have contacted pswpower (where I purchased tsdz2 from), they told me it is a controller issue and advised to order a new one. I really don't know why they are so determined that this is a controller problem, as they did not explain that this is a common problem. Perhaps they have had similar complaints... As some of you mentioned, it is likely that there's a mismatch between my batter (48V) and tsdz2. The label on the motor states that it is 48V. Could it still be the case that the controller firmware is not 48V? Furthermore, even if controller's firmware is 36V, how come I could ride 100km without any issues? As regards a potential display mismatch - aren't all original displays the same for 36V and 48V versions? Is there a way to find out what version display do I have? I have order a new controller, but there are shipping problems. In the meantime, would you advise re-flashing original firmware for 48V? Could that help to resolve the issue? I really need my bike : ( If yes, where could I get original 48V firmware? Is the flashing the same as Open Source Firmware? And last question - I am planning to flash OSF, my new monitor 860C is on the way. Would you advise trying OSF, or it is better to stick to original firmware until I am able to figure out what is actually the problem with tsdz2. Again, I am hugely appreciating all the comments you provide, guys. In no way I would be able to find out way out without your help. Thank you!
September 2, 20205 yr I have contacted pswpower (where I purchased tsdz2 from), they told me it is a controller issue and advised to order a new one. I really don't know why they are so determined that this is a controller problem, as they did not explain that this is a common problem. Perhaps they have had similar complaints... As some of you mentioned, it is likely that there's a mismatch between my batter (48V) and tsdz2. The label on the motor states that it is 48V. Could it still be the case that the controller firmware is not 48V? Furthermore, even if controller's firmware is 36V, how come I could ride 100km without any issues? As regards a potential display mismatch - aren't all original displays the same for 36V and 48V versions? Is there a way to find out what version display do I have? I have order a new controller, but there are shipping problems. In the meantime, would you advise re-flashing original firmware for 48V? Could that help to resolve the issue? I really need my bike : ( If yes, where could I get original 48V firmware? Is the flashing the same as Open Source Firmware? And last question - I am planning to flash OSF, my new monitor 860C is on the way. Would you advise trying OSF, or it is better to stick to original firmware until I am able to figure out what is actually the problem with tsdz2. Again, I am hugely appreciating all the comments you provide, guys. In no way I would be able to find out way out without your help. Thank you! I'm pretty sure it's not a battery issue. It sounds more like a blown mosfet or two in the controller, especially as you said the motor made weird noises before it packed up. When you get the controller out, you can test it to confirm.
September 2, 20205 yr Author Guys, I think I found the problem! I disassembled the display (VLCD6). White cable is not connected. Github states that white cable function is ground when LCD disabled and P+ (battery voltage) when LCD is enabled . Could somebody please advise me which place do I need to solder the white cable back?
September 2, 20205 yr Line up the white wire with the others, it’s length will show you where it was detached
September 2, 20205 yr Line up the white wire with the others, it’s length will show you where it was detached Zooming into the pic, it looks to my eyes that there are remaining strands of wire on the pad next to the green wire but....disclaimer time....I dunno so am hoping someone else can confirm!
September 2, 20205 yr Zooming into the pic, it looks to my eyes that there are remaining strands of wire on the pad next to the green wire but....disclaimer time....I dunno so am hoping someone else can confirm! Looks very likely!
September 2, 20205 yr You can see it's the pad next to the green wire. The pair will be the Tx or Rx wires for comms to the controller.
September 2, 20205 yr Zooming into the pic, it looks to my eyes that there are remaining strands of wire on the pad next to the green wire but....disclaimer time....I dunno so am hoping someone else can confirm! Yep, Swizz has it nailed. A blow up of the pic shows two broken wire strands.
September 2, 20205 yr Author Zooming into the pic, it looks to my eyes that there are remaining strands of wire on the pad next to the green wire but....disclaimer time....I dunno so am hoping someone else can confirm! Thanks! Yes, indeed, there's a single strand of wire remaining next to the green cable. Perhaps somebody knowledgeable in schematics of VLCD6 will confirm.
September 8, 20205 yr Author FIXED! Soldered back the white wire next to the green one. Works fine now. Thanks everybody for your help!
September 8, 20205 yr FIXED! Soldered back the white wire next to the green one. Works fine now. Thanks everybody for your help! Awesome news
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