TSDZ2 Crank fell off - what spec for replacement nut?

[not dave]

Riding home last night my crank arm fell off... Obviously i didn't fit it correctly when fitting my TSDZ2 motor. Is the nut that holds the crank a standard size? Need to hunt round the local bike shops but dont know what the size or thread i need to ask for.
PS, its the left crank if that makes a difference.

 

[Gavin]

They're a PITA- I check my crank bolts every week now and they're loose at least half of the time, even with threadlock.

I've just measured mine and it's M8 x 1.00 (M8 fine).

Based on your experience I might even start carrying a spare....

 

[not dave]

They're a PITA- I check my crank bolts every week now and they're loose at least half of the time, even with threadlock.

I've just measured mine and it's M8 x 1.00 (M8 fine).

Based on your experience I might even start carrying a spare....

Thanks Gavin, will make sure i have my bike multitool and a spare in my bag.
PS, i tried the 6kmh walk mode, but soon realised how slow 6kmh is! I tried changing the wheel size hoping this would trick the motor to go faster but no such luck, the speed felt the same but the display just showed different speeds.

 

[Gavin]

i tried the 6kmh walk mode

Yeah, it's a pointless gimmick in my opinion. There might be some bizarre set of circumstances where I might use it but it's much easier just to give the throttle a little flick to make the bike move on it's own.

 

[JohnDaBike]

After reading this I checked the crank bolts before going out today and found that both required half a turn to reach full tightness. So after just two gentle rides , 10 mile + 14 miles, the crank bolts required tightening. I'll check them before each ride from now on.

 

[sjpt]

Are you sure they are tightened enough? I think they are meant to be 40Nm (*) which is pretty tight. I've not worked on a bike with allen key crank bolts, but the (to me normal) hex ones need to be pretty firm even with a socket set. I'd have thought it would be difficult to get the required torque with a regular 8mm allen key.

Also, make sure you do NOT grease the inside face of the bolt.

(*) https://wooshbikes.co.uk/manuals/TSDZ2.pdf
I've not actually tightened crank bolts with a torque wrench so maybe I don't have the correct feel for what 40Nm is. Woosh can give much better advice than me on tightening.

 

[Gavin]

Are you sure they are tightened enough? I think they are meant to be 40Nm (*) which is pretty tight. I've not worked on a bike with allen key crank bolts, but the (to me normal) hex ones need to be pretty firm even with a socket set. I'd have thought it would be difficult to get the required torque with a regular 8mm allen key.

Also, make sure you do NOT grease the inside face of the bolt.

(*) https://wooshbikes.co.uk/manuals/TSDZ2.pdf
I've not actually tightened crank bolts with a torque wrench so maybe I don't have the correct feel for what 40Nm is. Woosh can give much better advice than me on tightening.

In my case I'm confident that they're tight enough. 40NM isn't massively tight. I don't measure mine when I do them up but if anything they're probably tighter than that.

I've also had the main shaft "nut" come loose a couple of times as well. I'm wondering if a combination of motor vibration and (in my case) off road use is playing a part in the problem.

Long term I'll probably knock up some sort of locking attachment for them...

 

[tonyw]

Always worth doing them up well, and rechecking after you ridden a few miles. Trouble with them coming loose is that riding with loose crank for even a shortish distance can damage the crank and spindle, and then it will never stay tight.

 

[not dave]

In my case I'm confident that they're tight enough. 40NM isn't massively tight. I don't measure mine when I do them up but if anything they're probably tighter than that.

I've also had the main shaft "nut" come loose a couple of times as well. I'm wondering if a combination of motor vibration and (in my case) off road use is playing a part in the problem.

Long term I'll probably knock up some sort of locking attachment for them...

Let us know what you come up with. I hope this isn't going to be a long term problem on my bike. For the past five years my bike has been 100% reliable, not even a puncture (I really shouldn't have typed that out, I feel fate's shadow looming, aaargghh).

 

[Gavin]

Let us know what you come up with. I hope this isn't going to be a long term problem on my bike. For the past five years my bike has been 100% reliable, not even a puncture (I really shouldn't have typed that out, I feel fate's shadow looming, aaargghh).

How long have you had the TSDZ on it?

 

[not dave]

How long have you had the TSDZ on it?

About three weeks i think.

 

[Gavin]

About three weeks i think.

Ah, I geddit. Based on your previous post I thought you'd had the TSDZ for 5 years- I thought you were in line for the "TSDZ high-mileage award"!

 

[not dave]

Ah, I geddit. Based on your previous post I thought you'd had the TSDZ for 5 years- I thought you were in line for the "TSDZ high-mileage award"!

I can see it wasn't clear! The donor bike for the conversion is five years old, but only recently converted.

 

[not dave]

#NotMuchLuck
So now my charger has decided to stop working!
Got home with battery quite low, flicking between one and two bars on the VLCD5, and one red and one green on the battery.
Plugging the battery charger in and no lights are showing on the charger block. Have tested the lead between the block and the mains and that is working fine, so the problem is either with the charger, connection or battery.
I will be contacting pswpower, but dont anticipate getting a charger from them in the next couple of days. So i am on the hunt for a spare.
Are there any chargers that are well regarded, or brands i should look for?
I have seen the following on Amazon, would this be suitable or would something else be better?

JUNSTAR Ebike Charger 36V/48V/52V Lithium Battery Charger Electric Bike Battery Charger with 3 Pin XLR Male

PS this is the battery I have

48V 14.5Ah Hairon the interior battery SAMSUNG INR18650-29E ebike battery fit 48V 750W/ 1000W

 

[Gavin]

Bummer.

Before you condemn the charger however, have you tried probing the charger output to see if you've got 55ish volts coming out?

 

[not dave]

Bummer.

Before you condemn the charger however, have you tried probing the charger output to see if you've got 55ish volts coming out?

Ive left it connected today and the battery is still showing the same charge...

 

[Gavin]

Ive left it connected today and the battery is still showing the same charge...

Those battery charge indicators aren't always reliable. Multimeters don't (usually) lie...

 

[Pedant peddler]

Ive left it connected today and the battery is still showing the same charge...

Apologies if I missed it though you are aware the battery has to be switched on to enable charging?

 

[Gavin]

Apologies if I missed it though you are aware the battery has to be switched on to enable charging?

Where are you getting that from PP? Do you mean when it's on or off the bike?

I take my battery off the bike to charge and leave the switch in the "off" position and it charges fine....

 

[Pedant peddler]

Where are you getting that from PP? Do you mean when it's on or off the bike?

I take my battery off the bike to charge and leave the switch in the "off" position and it charges fine....

Hairon linked in post #14...
Note: Please turn on the power switch when you charging this battery pack.