Torq or Wisper 905se which one to buy?
- Thread starter Basingstoke
- Start date
I can't say for all their types UrbanPuma, but I'd deduce that the LPX battery on your bike is made by the Tianjin Lishen Battery Joint-Stock Co., Ltd.
My reason for saying that is that your bike is also sold as the Wisper Works 805fe, so made by the same engineering company in China, using Lishen.
The NiMh batteries on some other Powacycle models could have cells from several specialist manufacturers of NiMh, and be assembled into cases by anyone. Lithium types are more complex and incorporate extensive electronic circuitry, so are usually manufactured throughout by a single facility like Lishen or Phylion.
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My reason for saying that is that your bike is also sold as the Wisper Works 805fe, so made by the same engineering company in China, using Lishen.
The NiMh batteries on some other Powacycle models could have cells from several specialist manufacturers of NiMh, and be assembled into cases by anyone. Lithium types are more complex and incorporate extensive electronic circuitry, so are usually manufactured throughout by a single facility like Lishen or Phylion.
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But it was an older design cobalt based one I believe, Allotmenteer, they were vulnerable.
For safety, Lishen now use a composite manganese cobalt cathode in their Li-ion types, and UrbanPuma's battery is also the latest polymer type, not so prone to this type of fault anyway.
Best bet for your NiMh is to order one from eZee, as they arrive regularly in small quantities. I got one just at the end of last month, the end of batch I think.
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For safety, Lishen now use a composite manganese cobalt cathode in their Li-ion types, and UrbanPuma's battery is also the latest polymer type, not so prone to this type of fault anyway.
Best bet for your NiMh is to order one from eZee, as they arrive regularly in small quantities. I got one just at the end of last month, the end of batch I think.
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Thanks flecc. I'll put in an order soon (when I've sold my electrodrive). Before I do what sort of connector do the eeze batteries have? Could you post a picture?
Regards
Paul
Edit: just had a look at your site and seen a pic. Looks like I'll need to source a suitable connector or (more likely) open the case and connect the wires to a new connector, maybe drilling a hole in the case as well.
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Whilst competition between ebike suppliers is healthy I don't think we want threads degenerate into a slanging match between suppliers. A few threads have gone this way recently. Perhaps a new forum category can be set up. May I suggest it be titled the 'My dad's bigger than your dad' forum.
Oh, but such fun though! Seriously, I do agree with the sentiment but I think it's great that two such prominent companies are willing to post so openly on this forum and I do think we get access to some information that might not be forthcoming if they weren't winding each other up.
If you have a look on the page below on my Twist site Paul, you'll see a flylead method of adapting from one to another. The eZee battery connector is an XLR socket. The text gives you the Maplin part numbers for the XLR connectors.
Alternatively, alongside the fuse on the eZee battery there's space to fit a chassis socket of most types to suit. You could either switch the existing three wires across or just put jumpers across to leave both sockets usable.
Don't forget the centre connector is for the thermistor and you'll need an appropriate NiMh charger to suit the battery's thermistor. Most 36 volt nominal Li-ion chargers cut out at about 41 volts, leaving an NiMh battery undercharged.
The eZee charger has 53 volts quiescent for NiMh headroom, and cuts out on temperature at about 44.5 volts.
Connectors
When opening up the eZee case, it's the base screws first and the base slid off, then the three case screws. There are two u shaped latch plates on each side which you can probe for on one side with a very thin blade and press in to release them as you part the sides , or they just break off which does no harm, except to the warranty.
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Alternatively, alongside the fuse on the eZee battery there's space to fit a chassis socket of most types to suit. You could either switch the existing three wires across or just put jumpers across to leave both sockets usable.
Don't forget the centre connector is for the thermistor and you'll need an appropriate NiMh charger to suit the battery's thermistor. Most 36 volt nominal Li-ion chargers cut out at about 41 volts, leaving an NiMh battery undercharged.
The eZee charger has 53 volts quiescent for NiMh headroom, and cuts out on temperature at about 44.5 volts.
Connectors
When opening up the eZee case, it's the base screws first and the base slid off, then the three case screws. There are two u shaped latch plates on each side which you can probe for on one side with a very thin blade and press in to release them as you part the sides , or they just break off which does no harm, except to the warranty.
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Are you talking about the only charging connector here? I'm not worried about that as I will buy a charger with the battery. I meant what is the connector to the controller like on the ezee batteries? As you know I've used Grandad's (I think) idea of the american plug to connect to my powacycle nimh battery. Will I have to do something similar with the eeze battery?
Paul
Understood Paul. They are exactly the same dimensions as the clip part of 13 amp sockets that we have in our homes. Here's a photo showing the battery base area and clips in their housings. The bike's base has two 13 amp plug type brass blades. These are of course thicker than the ones in Grandad's mod. Ignore the white bit sticking out:
You could just salvage two blades (+ & -) from a 13 amp plug and mount them in some way to make a connector.
Alternatively, when the eZee base is slid off the battery, there's two quite long wires there which could have inline connectors added:
You could just salvage two blades (+ & -) from a 13 amp plug and mount them in some way to make a connector.
Alternatively, when the eZee base is slid off the battery, there's two quite long wires there which could have inline connectors added:
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Competition is a wonderful thing. We will all benefit from having 2 suppliers wanting to be the best in the business. Its good for the consumers who get better value, the suppliers who get more intelligent, and e-bikes all-round by more people realising that they are valid replacements for cars.
Keep up the good work both of you
John
Keep up the good work both of you
John
Hmmm. Did anyone actually answer the question posed - which was - which bike to buy - Torq or 905se?
I don't think so Bill, but some info has come out of it that may help any prospective purchasers come to a decision, or frighten them off both.
Took me blinking ages to read all those messages only to get no real answer - and anyway I'd buy another Forza.
I think as Ian implied in his first post Bill, the Wisper 905se not being available and never seen or tried made it an impossible question. Basingstoke also appeared to be making a statement about UK versus US pricing and supplier's service as much as anything.
And of course we still don't know until the 905se appears and is tested, hence my jogging David about getting reviews done in a parallel thread, as you'll see on this link and the three subsequent entries.
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