No wires to disconnect Nigel, just make sure you don't pull on the ones coming out of the front spindle. At the front, release the V brake cable, then there's an anti-rotation plate with an allen bolt securing it which you need to undo, then loosen both wheel nuts well. Those front wheel nuts need an open-end 18 mm spanner, a somewhat unusual size, often not included in spanner sets. If in difficulty with that, see
here.
To avoid pulling on the wires, gently prise the harness out of the L clips on the fork so there's some slack, then lay the bike on it's left side. When you remove the wheel then, you'll find enough slack on the wiring harness to do the tyre change.
Then reverse the procedure, engaging the thread a little on the anti-rotation plate first. Then tighten the wheel nuts evenly, a bit each side at a time, making sure you don't over-tighten them or tighten one much more than the other.
Finally it's the harness back into place behind the L clips.
On the back wheel there's the hub brake. When the bike's new it's sometimes a bit difficult lifting out the stirrup at the end of the brake inner cable to release it from the actuator arm. Just persist and it will jiggle out. Then you have to undo the bolt that secures the brake torque arm to the frame tube clip. You'll need two 10 mm spanners for that. Then the wheel can be removed without difficulty the usual way.
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