Think about buying a Yose power need help guys

[Michael 2025]

@Michael 2025

eBay. Item 256369636190

Here

That's what I've ordered

I'm winging it with some advice from here so I am no expert

That’s what am hoping to do , think this looks better route to take That means could swap the battery from 36v to 48v with this controller ??

 

[Michael 2025]

From experience I prefer the 22a S09S over the S06S , but that is down to my use and my slowish cadence .
Downside is the 9fets are in a larger size box.

See want to keep stealth as possible draw less attention to me self so don’t want big control boxes or huge battery’s

 

[Wayners]

I'm putting my older yose 250w front hub on a spare bike with a 48v battery. Will be mostly a backup. Flat tyre mornings ect. Might be good for my son when he comes riding with me.

The 48v battery will also fit a step through bike I'm building but will have a different rear wheel hub.

@Michael 2025

Don't know about swapping batteries without swapping settings like speed and amps tbh
Why would you?
But yes you can

 

[Baz the balloon man]

I was also considering the battery required for a 17amp controller vs 15amp.

Would think 36 or 48 but if 48 then quality of the gears will be a concern seen Suntours motors stripped by any thing bigger than 36v .
I have not opened a Bafang motor yet but would hope to see metal gears as a brand leader in this field !

I am sure the lime bikes in London must have Bafang commercial quality components considering the abuse they receive especially from the kids lol like I would have given then in the 70s

 

[Baz the balloon man]

So this controller paired with a 250w or 350 w better that the Yose power controller ??

I have been looking at KT 17amp with lights and KT3 too just have to check it will fit in the controller housing on the Carrera and Raleigh bikes

 

[Wayners]

If my yose motor dies I won't be too upset. I'll buy a decent rear hub

 

[Baz the balloon man]

Well I went down this rabbit hole thinking bigger is better ( ‘said the actress to the bishop ‘)
And always worrying that I would not have enough battery or how long my battery would last ie how much should I spend for quality cell’s.

But what I have found with the right road conditions going from A to B or just going out for the day say to the pub .

Is the lighter and faster the bike e bike or not the better lighter bike = less power or effort to ride without going OTT .

Miss my Giant I made when a local doctor came round to ride my bird and went home with a Giant boom boom .

 

[thelarkbox]

Fwiw i installed a 250w yose rear wheel kit circa 2 years ago, i also bought a kt dual voltage controller with the intention of sourcing a 2nd 48v battery as i am a larger non enthusiastic cyclist.

2 years on and im still riding with the stock system, the kt controller is installed on a 2nd 'backup' bike..
limited experience 'test ridding' the kt 17a controller with 36v and no speed limit and i achieved 22mph but the last few miles were slow painfully slow to attain on the flat.

I would suggest buying a 250w kit and if you find the 15.5 mph speed limit too restrictive and you have confidence in your bikes brakes and stopping distance a 17a controller upgrade alongside a battery upgrade to 48v will give you both 33% more torque and speed putting 20 mph clearly at the optimum running speed (15 + 33% = 20)
Though moving at 20 mph in unlikely conditions (anything but down hill) is likely to draw interest and with a bike unrestricted to 15mph, it might not remain in your possession.
And you might want to monitor the motor temp considering the extra amps you will be providing it.

 

[saneagle]

Weight is 15 half stone
Hill grade about 5% to 10 % no heigh than that
10 miles there and back to work

15A at 48v should be fine for your weight and 5% hills. For 10%, 17A would be better.

 

[saneagle]

I was also considering the battery required for a 17amp controller vs 15amp.

It depends how far you want to go. 20Ah 48v batteries are pretty cheap these days from Greenlance and Yose, so why have any less.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

One of the things about speed on a bike, especially at higher speeds, on the flat it is very much affected by riding position and tyres. A rider on a road bike with drop handlebars and road tyres with 300 watts of power will do 25 mph, on a mountain bike with flat handlebars and MTB tyres they will do 20mph. To do 25 mph on the mountain bike needs 500 watts of power.

Going up hills it is much more about the combined weight of rider and bike

 

[Michael 2025]

Guys still don’t know what to pick , my carrea hellcat is light bike , think about going 250w change the cassette to high speed for hills and flats to go faster ( but what cassette will be best and know much about cassette teeth etc ???

And thinking about getting thin road tyres instead off 2.3 a have on now ,

so if change all that should get speed comfortable of 18/ 19 mph and good for 5% to 10% hills ??

am 15.half stone would this 250 w cope with my weight ??


think leave the it controller if not needed as ads extra bulk to my bike want look clean as possible to not draw attention

Thanks all help guys
So much chose from

 

[Michael 2025]

Some pictures of my bike , on the way to work

 

[saneagle]

Some pictures of my bike , on the way to work

When you convert a normal bike to an electric one, you have desired performance characteristics and aesthetic characteristics. The problem is that the various characteristics conflict with each other: range vs weight; appearance vs utility; power vs stealth; speed vs legal requirements; unavailability vs cost; etc.

The only person, who can decide on the correct balance. You can achieve more of the characteristics if you source parts specially, but then they're more expensive. You need a motor, a controller with a HID, a battery and some sensors. You can get them in a kit or source them individually.

My recommendations are a rear 250 rpm 48v geared cassette hub-motor or a 201 rpm 36v one; a 15A minimum KT controller with LCD4 for stealth otherwise LCD3 or LCD5, or 17A if you can find one; any 48v battery from Yose or Greenlance; any KT pedal sensor and any throttle.

If you don't want to spend time sourcing those parts to get the nicest conversion, you can get the 250w 48v Woosh kit with the big geared motor that's heavy, but will last a lifetime of commuting.

The Woosh 48v TSDZ8 kit is also powerful. Crank-motors are a bit less durable and wear the drive-train parts quicker, and they're a little less dependable than hub-motors, but they're very quick and easy to install. The only problem I've had is the chain coming off because of the single chain-ring and 9 gears alignment, but that's easily cured with a chainguide, either self-made or bought. I'm 100kg and use the less powerful 48vTSDZ2 quite a lot, but it's slower than a hub-motor because you have to change right down to first gear to go up steep hills. It lacks power by comparison. The TSDZ8 is more powerful than the TSDZ2. If I were to guess, I'd say the TSDZ2 is somewhere around 12A to 15A, and the TSDZ8 18A to 20A. The only problem with powerful crank-drives is that the chance of mashing your gears is higher, which could leave you stranded.

 

[Wayners]

@Michael 2025
I just bought marathon plus tour 26 x 1.75 tyres
I like a bit of grip over grass and mud sometimes

 

[Michael 2025]

When you convert a normal bike to an electric one, you have desired performance characteristics and aesthetic characteristics. The problem is that the various characteristics conflict with each other: range vs weight; appearance vs utility; power vs stealth; speed vs legal requirements; unavailability vs cost; etc.

The only person, who can decide on the correct balance. You can achieve more of the characteristics if you source parts specially, but then they're more expensive. You need a motor, a controller with a HID, a battery and some sensors. You can get them in a kit or source them individually.

My recommendations are a rear 250 rpm 48v geared cassette hub-motor or a 201 rpm 36v one; a 15A minimum KT controller with LCD4 for stealth otherwise LCD3 or LCD5, or 17A if you can find one; any 48v battery from Yose or Greenlance; any KT pedal sensor and any throttle.

If you don't want to spend time sourcing those parts to get the nicest conversion, you can get the 250w 48v Woosh kit with the big geared motor that's heavy, but will last a lifetime of commuting.

The Woosh 48v TSDZ8 kit is also powerful. Crank-motors are a bit less durable and wear the drive-train parts quicker, and they're a little less dependable than hub-motors, but they're very quick and easy to install. The only problem I've had is the chain coming off because of the single chain-ring and 9 gears alignment, but that's easily cured with a chainguide, either self-made or bought. I'm 100kg and use the less powerful 48vTSDZ2 quite a lot, but it's slower than a hub-motor because you have to change right down to first gear to go up steep hills. It lacks power by comparison. The TSDZ8 is more powerful than the TSDZ2. If I were to guess, I'd say the TSDZ2 is somewhere around 12A to 15A, and the TSDZ8 18A to 20A. The only problem with powerful crank-drives is that the chance of mashing your gears is higher, which could leave you stranded.

Thanks for take time to reply , a wouldn’t go mid drive as if me chain snaps a be left
Stranded 4 clock in the morning pushing me
Bike back 10 miles , to risky that , think going go the route yose power 250w rear hub then if it’s not powerful enough upgrade to yose power controller as that give me few more amps won’t it ??
Just ordered 10 speed 11-34 cassette to make more stealth and to help get up hils etc

a got free shimano SLX M675 10 speed derailleur. Given at work so going not cost much going from 8 speed to 10 speed

 

[Michael 2025]

@Michael 2025
I just bought marathon plus tour 26 x 1.75 tyres
I like a bit of grip over grass and mud sometimes

That’s exactly one am looking at , as there supposed be good for punctures