the wheel won't stop spinning when ignition cable is connected

[zilvi]

Hi guys in simple words I bought a new controller that has an alarm system and I when I connect the ignition cable to the battery +36v it just starts spinning with no cotroll what's so ever . Anyone that has been throughout a similar issue , the controller is Dioche2smnpotyiu 36/48v 38amps
Running on 36v 15a battery

 

[Nealh]

EBS wire is plugged together, disconnect it.

 

[vfr400]

Most likely, that's the self-learning procedure that the controller will do every time you switch on with the two green wires connected. You should disconnect them.

 

[zilvi]

When I disconnect the self learning wire the wheel stops spinning but still no response from the throttle

 

[zilvi]

Most likely, that's the self-learning procedure that the controller will do every time you switch on with the two green wires connected. You should disconnect them.

The grey EBS wires are disconnected and If I turn it on with the green ones connected the intelligent sensor or learning wires the wheel will spin with no control if I turn it on with the wires disconnected nothing happens no response from the throttle .

 

[vfr400]

It's the self-learning procedure that makes the motor spin. It'll do that with or without the throttle connected, so it doesn't mean that your throttle works.

Start by disconnecting everything from the controller except the motor, battery and any control panel if you have one. Check that the throttle wires match what's on the controller's connector, i.e. red to red, black to black and signal wire to white, then connect the throttle.

Switch on the controller and test whether the throttle works. If it doesn't, check whether you have 5v between the red and the black on the throttle connector, then check that the signal wire gives 1 to 4 volts when operating the throttle.

If you intend to use a PAS, you'll need a three position switch on the connector marked "gear selection". You get low speed when one of the outer pins is connected to the middle one, medium when no pins are connected and high speed when the third pin is connected to the middle. Sometimes, you only get a small difference between medium and high speed. Without that three-speed switch, PAS will be useless.

Use the low potential brake connector, not the high one.

 

[vfr400]

Something I just noticed. That controller says 38 amps on the label, and you say that you have a 36v 15Ah battery. Are you sure your battery can supply 38 amps. I would have thought that around 25 amps would be the best you can expect. That's if it's a good one! A normal one would be around 20 amps.

Do you want to give us some background info on what you have, what you're doing and why?

 

[zilvi]

Something I just noticed. That controller says 38 amps on the label, and you say that you have a 36v 15Ah battery. Are you sure your battery can supply 38 amps. I would have thought that around 25 amps would be the best you can expect. That's if it's a good one! A normal one would be around 20 amps.

Do you want to give us some background info on what you have, what you're doing and why?

So I changed controller because the other one died .
So you saying that because the controller is rated 38A and my battery can supply only 15A . Is that the problem?

 

[zilvi]

What would be the best controller for a voilamart 500w rear hub wheel and a 36V 15A battery . Because I think the controller I have the low amp that the controller can supply is not low enough for my battery to make it function correctly. right?

 

[vfr400]

You have to give more details of the battery. Can you show us the listing from where you bought it?

 

[zilvi]

You have to give more details of the battery. Can you show us the listing from where you bought it?

You have to give more details of the battery. Can you show us the listing from where you bought it?

That's all I have on it

 

[vfr400]

It says that the maximum continuous current is 20A. That 38A controller will exceed that, probably for most of the time. The BMS doesn't cut off until 60A, so you should be OK from that point of view, but I would think that you'll probably get cut-outs due to voltage sag if you run at full power for too long. Basically, You'd be better off with a 22 A controller, which I think is what's supplied with that kit. Also, if you're going to buy a new controller, one with an LCD would be better because that will allow you to use the pedal sensor.

Here's a good 22 amp controller without LCD, so good for throttle only:

S-KU93 36v/48v 500W 22A Controller

S-KU93 Controller. It is suitable for all our 250W, 500W motor and Q128 Motor. This controller is compatible with 48V and 36V battery.

bmsbattery.com

This is a good sine wave one with LCD. It's 30A, but you can adjust the max current in the settings. This one will allow you to tune the current to what your battery is happy with. You have to order the LCD separately from them.

S12S 500Watts Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller

S12S 500Watts Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller for 36Volts and 48Volts battery pack E-Bike System

bmsbattery.com

The controller is the most important part of an ebike. It determines how well the motor and the pedal assistance works. I think it's worth spending the extra money to get a decent one.

Your motor can handle the 38 amps, no problem. It would also go very well at 25 amps and 48V.

I'm pretty sure that your battery isn't really up to the job even with the 22A controller. it'll work, but range will be poor and I don't think it will last long, so you'll probably be looking for a decent 48v battery soon. Bear that in mind when you decide on what to do about the controller.

Another thing you could do is get the Yose Power kit with the sine wave controller and the smaller motor. That'll cost about £200, and your battery will be much happier with it and last a lot longer. It'll be much more efficient, more pleasant to ride, and it'll go up hills better.

 

[zilvi]

Thanks for all the help . I'll try one of the controllers that you have. suggested . And yes I've should research more before went to buy anything. But I just wanted to get it cheap and fast and I ended up buying the wrong parts .. Thanks again. will update when I get the new controller . Thanks again

 

[zilvi]

Hi , so I bought a new controller you suggested and it gives me the same problem , but this time I does launch the wheel full speed for a couple of seconds and then it goes spinning really slow . That happens with the self learning cable connected if I do disconnect them nothing happens . I have no idea what's happening and I'm ready to toss my bike from the window

 

[zilvi]

Hi , so I bought a new controller you suggested and it gives me the same problem , but this time I does launch the wheel full speed for a couple of seconds and then it goes spinning really slow . That happens with the self learning cable connected if I do disconnect them nothing happens . I have no idea what's happening and I'm ready to toss my bike from the window

 

[zilvi]

Could it be a faulty throttle and that's why when the self learning cable is disconnected nothing happens or because originally the kit come with a 5 wire thub throttle and only an original controller with a thumb throttle will work ??

 

[vfr400]

Which controller did you buy? Neither of the two that I recommended have self-learning wires!