The show us your bike thread

[PinkFloyd]

I'll show you mine if you show me yours....

 

[PinkFloyd]

 

[PinkFloyd]

 

[echowind]

Good pics, nice looking bike, it looks like it could invade Poland. Does the bike ride as good as it looks?

 

[PinkFloyd]

She rides very well echowind but there are a few teething troubles to be sorted out. The front brake judders and the diagnostic LED keeps flashing 11 times which indicates thermostat problems. The range up here is pretty dire but, again, this could be down to either the thermostat thingy or the new battery not yet fully formed.... whatever the case 12.84 miles is pretty pants, it has been VERY windy though and that's firing her up some moderate hills.... battery redlights going into wind and it redlights on some hills..... I really can't wait to try it on a good day.

The gears are excellent and the motor smoooooth as silk in operation. The throttle positioned on the left hand side is extremely queer IMO.... there must be a reason for it but I can't work it out. The handling isn't bad but I don't feel confident to go down a hill with no hands on the handlebar, it just feels a tad unsure at times but maybe it's just me not been on a bike for over 20 years.

 

[echowind]

I don't know much about electric bikes pinkfloyd, but there are many in this forum that do. Hopefully the problem is a quick fix and someone can help you with it. As for the brake judder, I would check the obvious first,{ even though from the pics the bike looks very clean} dirty rims, blocks or wheel out of true, also check for any loose bolts. Is the front suspension adjustable, if so you could try different settings.

 

[flecc]

The reason for the left hand throttle on many electric bikes is that gearchangers are on the right, and on the twistgrip type changer a left hand throttle becomes essential. It's useful for many of us also where there's loads of traffic and right turn hand signals are essential.

Front brake judder has affected the front motor eZee bikes quite a lot, the original Torq worst of all. No one factor has been isolated that causes it, but it's possible to improve the situation. Replacing the brake pads with long tailed pads can help, these an example of the type I mean which have a longer leading part of the shoe that sits back inside the fork legs.

An uneven rim wall join can provoke judder, and that tends to disappear as the rim wall wears and the surface evens out. A wheel out of true or any slack spokes can also make matters worse with hub motor wheels.

One technique that helps avoid judder when the road surface allows it is to start a brake application with hard pressure and then ease it to the braking level you want. Snatching in the pressure hard like that can stabilise the pads and make the following braking even. Try it to see if it works for you.
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[Ian]

Interesting that Pink Floyds forza has a disc brake and still suffers from judder.

 

[flecc]

I'd forgotten that his had the disc brake. As you say Ian, it's interesting and indicates that the wheel and it's build is probably right at the heart of this, since both brake type and forks are so radically changed from the Torq 1.
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[Trakker]

Nice bike fella!

 

[Django]

I'd forgotten that his had the disc brake. As you say Ian, it's interesting and indicates that the wheel and it's build is probably right at the heart of this, since both brake type and forks are so radically changed from the Torq 1.
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Since I had my front wheel rebuilt with new rim and spokes I have had no fork judder whatsoever on my Torq.

Cheers,

Django

 

[derrick7]

Here is my bike




Derrick - Llanberis

 

[PinkFloyd]

Had a real good chance to look today and it's definitely a warped disc, no doubts whatsoever.... spin the wheel and "tsk tsk tsk" sound, very very gently apply brake pressure and you can feel the high spot as it travels through the pads.... you can even see it with the naked eye, a bit out of true.

Even more bad news with the bike today..... it has now randomly started to cut out (ie: will be buzzing along at full throttle let's say and then cuts out, cuts in again and then cuts out again) it is extremely annoying and this battery IMO is totally clapped out as it only holds charge for about 4 mile tops now (and it's apparantly brand new) I just don't have any confidence to go further than the village shop with it.

The diagnostic LED is still flashing 11 continuous blinks (indicates thermostat?) so I have a bike that is continuously indicating a fault, a battery that is getting weaker instead of stronger (4 cycles to date) and a warped disc..... to top all that it'll do about 4 miles, and that four miles was done today in very calm conditions on the flat, and then run flat.

Erm...... Not what I had expected at all and I'll be in touch with Lloyd at 50 cycles tomorrow about all this, I believe he tried to contact me today but I missed his call. Blimey, I hope this "is" a fault and not indicative of the actual performance / range of the bike.

The Motor also sounds pretty "grindy" and tinkly, even under no load, is this normal??

 

[flecc]

The cogs in that motor can be heard all the time. The performance and range when new are definitely wrong, as is the LED signal, none of these normal on these bikes, so I'm sure 50cycles can put it right.
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[PinkFloyd]

The cogs in that motor can be heard all the time. The performance and range when new are definitely wrong, as is the LED signal, none of these normal on these bikes, so I'm sure 50cycles can put it right.
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Yup, the performance and range definitely seem to be VERY wrong. Nothing too serious as long as they have replacement parts in stock. From what I can gather the thermostat is housed in the sealed control unit so necessitates a new control unit as the thermostat cannot be replaced individually (bloody typical of this throwaway society we live in - "green" my ass!) easy enough to fit by the looks of it. The front disk brake is easy enough to replace if they have one in stock. Just a question if it's a defective battery or a defective charger..... my money is on the battery, the charger seems ok according to my humble armoury of diagnostic meters

In a way quite disappointing but in another quite exciting as I love a challenge and there's no better way to learn how to fix something unless you have something you care about that is broken. In an ideal world I'd cycle round to 50 cycles tomorrow morning and cycle off in the aftertnoon with a smile on my face.... pity I'm 605 miles away with a bike that claps out after 4.... I'm sure something can be worked out.

 

[flecc]

It's usually battery, charger faults generally rare. There was one batch of these chargers with a fault a short while ago, but that was a zener diode fault that caused a complete refusal to charge, clearly not that with yours.

However, given the cutting out that recovers by itself without you needing to switch on and off, the controller could be causing early cutout too, so it's probably best to start with changing that.

Battery internal circuit cutouts on these eZee batteries require switching off and on again before they carry on.
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