Swytch kit: compatibility with non-Swytch components?

[saneagle]

Ehh ... I'm really not technical,so I can only go with the info I get/see, and the sticker on the controller says 12A. Maybe you mean 30V as in the Low voltage protection value?

Sorry if I confuse myself and, possibly, others.

Sorry, I thought this was the Powabyke thread. You can use any battery as long as it doesn't have recycled cells. You can only use judgement to figure out which those are, otherwise buy from sellers with a good reputation.

 

[Quincetessence]

I'm still curious what's happening inside the battery connector. I used my multimeter on the controller today to test for continuity. The inner two prongs have continuity with each other, and surprisingly, so did the outer two prongs with each other--but only in one polarity direction. Weirdly enough, when I touch my multimeter's red to the red side and black to the black side of the outer prongs, it doesn't connect. But if I reverse it, it does. The inner prongs have continuity in either direction. I wonder if power needs to run in and out of all four prongs in a specific pattern and direction before just going up the wires normally back into the controller.

In any case, if you do decide to modify the controller's battery wires by cutting them, my thought is to put new compatible connectors on between the Swytch battery connector and the controller, so that you have a way to reattach them if needed. Maybe pick the same connectors that you end up using for your third-party battery so that you can swap between the two as needed.

 

[saneagle]

There is nothing complicated about it. The middle two pins on the battery side are the positive and negative charger connections. There are only two wires connected to the controller side connections., which are the positive and negative power wires, presumably connected to a pair of pins on each wire like many batteries.

 

[RogerNL]

Thanks @Quincetessence for being brave and showing us the inside!
Red and black wire ...that should be doable, even for me.

Now, which of Ali's vast supply of batteries would be of good enough quality and will work?
Those blue taped packages don't look like very solid or waterproof.
These look better:
Silverfish battery or Bottle battery
Would these be any good?

I was actually looking for a confirmation on amps and watts and volts
From the 2 mentioned, the Bottle battery looks much better, has much more detailed product description, ships from DE (EU) and has additional features like USB connector (which I think is a cool/good-to-have option).

The question then is which one to pick in terms of amps/watts/volts etc.??? Am I correct that either one of the following will work? U005 36V10.5Ah Sanyo or S001 36V10.5Ah Sanyo?

Or should I look further to a battery with more like 12 or 13 Ah?

 

[saneagle]

I was actually looking for a confirmation on amps and watts and volts
From the 2 mentioned, the Bottle battery looks much better, has much more detailed product description, ships from DE (EU) and has additional features like USB connector (which I think is a cool/good-to-have option).

The question then is which one to pick in terms of amps/watts/volts etc.??? Am I correct that either one of the following will work? U005 36V10.5Ah Sanyo or S001 36V10.5Ah Sanyo?

Or should I look further to a battery with more like 12 or 13 Ah?

Any of those batteries will be fine. The more Ah you get, the further you can go, and the more they weigh.

 

[NickJP]

I can confirm that the following items from TopBikeKit work fine with the Swytch battery/controller:

TBK-100AD 36V250W hub: https://www.topbikekit.com/21kg-tbk100ad-36v250w-ebike-frontrear-driving-hub-motor-p-1072.html. They sell this either as hub only or complete wheel. As shipping for hub only is a lot cheaper, and I'm a competent wheel builder and already had a rim and spokes, I bought just the hub.

KT-V12L pedal assist sensor: https://www.topbikekit.com/ktv12l-pas-with-3pins-julet-waterproof-connector-for-ebike-p-550.html. I wasn't sure if the gender of the connector on the sensor would be correct, as some manufacturers use a male connector and some a female, but it turned out to be the right gender for the plug on the Swytch. In any case, if the gender is wrong, you can get male/male or female/female Julet cables off Aliexpress for only a couple of dollars.

Shipping via DHL was quite swift - less than a week from placing the order to having it arrive.

 

[theabsurdman]

Could somebody with a Swytch Air or Max battery who knows what they are doing please put a voltmeter negative probe in the discharge slot numbered 1 in my attached image below and report the measured voltages on the positive probe across slots 2, 3 and 4? Include any negative signs and be very careful not to short any of the slots through the probes!

Thanks.

 

[Cisco-man]

Could somebody with a Swytch Air or Max battery who knows what they are doing please put a voltmeter negative probe in the discharge slot numbered 1 in my attached image below and report the measured voltages on the positive probe across slots 2, 3 and 4? Include any negative signs and be very careful not to short any of the slots through the probes!

Thanks.

Hi. I get +32v if I measure both 3 and 4 with reference to 2. I get 42v measuring across the charge connectors in the middle. That makes me think that the battery pack has a circuit to drop whatever the actual battery voltage is, down to 32v at the output connectors. I don’t get any reading on 1 though. Someone on the forum is saying that it might be a “security” connection to stop people using a different make of battery?

 

[madrian]

Anyone knows if it possible to reset the total mileage "ODO"? I rebuilt my battery on my Gen1 and I would like to start from 0km - or do you know any alternative display?