Hi We've got 3 Swytch kits (gen 2) - 2 of which work faultlessly and are great to use. One did work but is now an endless cycle of intermittent on/off working....TBH I think it's the handlebar connector as we have swapped out everything else and have 4 working battery packs. I also have a gen 1 non working Pro battery pack (the massive ones) which I forgot to top up charge and it seems to have died - it's not to hand at the moment and is buried somewhere in my storage unit. I also have a spare gen 2 battery pack which holds charge but I think has a dead controller. Does anyone know if the gen 1 and gen 2 controllers are interchangeable (either a straight swap or a swap with some minor tweaking)? I was thinking about trying to cobble something together from both old kits and using the gen 2 Pro battery cell pack maybe rear or frame mounted. I use the Swytch kit on an old Giant Bowery single speed which as it's really light so it works a treat and the range is very good too so any advice to get it going would be great. I contacted Swytch but they don't seem to have any info on Gen 1 these days. Thanks.
Swytch gen 1 and gen 2 controllers
- Thread starter Cam1968
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- swytch controller
My Gen 2 Eco battery just died. Do you have any links for replacement batteries I should buy?
The picture of the generation 1 unit is in fact a picture of the Battery unit. In my generation 1 pack the controller was separate. When the battery died I just replaced with an external generic 36V Yose battery directly powering the controller by twin thick gauge wire (was in fact hifi speaker cable). The bike continues to work ok using a variety of 36V batteries (eg the Yose and Bosch lawnmower types of varying capacities).
For those who want to copy this idea, you should use 14g wire.
That's to put a put a number on it because "thick" has different meanings to different people.
I also want to change out the battery, I have a large capacity 36V. I'm not sure what gen my system is, but only a year old or so (pics attached). I have the handlebar mount, the battery has 4 spade connectors (female), and the 2 charging ports. I was going to solder female spade connectors to my own 36V battery, but I'm not 100% sure of the orientation of the connectors, and why 4? Sure there are just two connections from the battery? Thanks
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Just tried measuring voltages on the four pins, either getting zero volts or fluctuating voltages across the pins. Makes me think there's a BMS to contend with, may not be possible to use own battery...
also discussed here:
www.pedelecs.co.uk
also discussed here:
Swytch battery DIY upgrade
Hi All, I have got the new swytch kit and with the Max battery, it is ok for my everyday commutes but it would be impossible engaging in longer rides (unless purchasing additional 3-4 battery packs!) I wonder if anyone tried to create a DIY battery for the swytch kit using the large battery...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Every battery has its own BMS. If you can't measure voltage on the Swytch battery, it's because it's switched off. Don't they have a power button somewhere? Most batteries only use the outer two blades as the connectors for power. Some manufacturers use the middle ones for whatever they want, like a remote power switch, lights, data, etc. You must look to see which blades have wires soldered to them on the controller side. By convention, the one with the thick red is the positive, and the thick black is the negative. Once you know which is which, you can connect your battery with spade connectors you will probably get a big spark and zap noise when you connect. It's a bit scary, but nothing to worry about. If your battery has its own switch, you won't get the spark if you connect when it's switched off.Just tried measuring voltages on the four pins, either getting zero volts or fluctuating voltages across the pins. Makes me think there's a BMS to contend with, may not be possible to use own battery...
also discussed here:
Swytch battery DIY upgrade
Hi All, I have got the new swytch kit and with the Max battery, it is ok for my everyday commutes but it would be impossible engaging in longer rides (unless purchasing additional 3-4 battery packs!) I wonder if anyone tried to create a DIY battery for the swytch kit using the large battery...
Theres a power button on the display. I've taken the mount apart. There are just two wires red and black from the controller. Annoyingly the wires aren't exposed on the controller side to directly see how they are connected to the battery terminals. The inner terminals are shorted - common ground? Not sure about the outers. I can connect the battery via some leads and take a spur off each for testing with the system on? Seems like the best way to get the polarity correct.
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This thread is about gen 1 and 2 systems. Sorry, I forgot that yours is the new one. There's a separate thread that describes everything about that connector:
Swytch Pro/Max yellow battery connector secrets revealed?
Hi all thinking about doing this on my wifes swytch max, with battery on the front, due to terrible range. Based on what has been said, I need to have the standard battery fitted as well, or the outer ports dont do anything to the other controls, in effect fitting a second 36v battery and having...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
If you want to run a separate battery, it would be better to splice a connector into the two battery wires going in to the controller.
Spliced the wires going into the controller - thanks for the suggestion. Added a 500Wh 36V battery - a very worthwhile upgrade. The bike can now run in the highest power mode, and I think the top speed has increased (entered a smaller wheel size to unlock). With a separate bike computer I'm measuring 35 km/hr on the flat in mode 5. Can also use the swytch battery as a backup. Added 4 piston calipers front and rear - definitely needed...
Hi all, don't know wether this is the right place but am looking for one of these from a swytch kit. not sure of the generation 1/2?, but a handlebar mount for the battery. I have no output from the mount to the red wire (to the PAS sensor) there is a 3v output to the white wire.... The sensor LED lights up but does not flash when pedaling. The magnet disc is fitted correctly...
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![IMG_0703[1].JPG](/forum/data/attachments/58/58574-0777abe722042f2bbfe557bf410df954.jpg)
My advice with swytch kits is as soon as something goes wrong and you need to buy something, chuck the electrics. Just keep the motor, then you can have a nice controller and whatever battery you want to go as far and fast as you want at however hard you want to pedal, without further problems.
If your battery is OK and big enough for what you want, you can keep it in the bag and whatever holds it, and install a normal controller wired in the conventional way.
Hello , how did you splice the wire , which wire was it ? I thought had to connect cables to the pins as there is no battery in cable as the battery connects straight to the clip ? I think mine is same gen , looks same, thanks
Thanks , my swytch just failed today anyway so am replacing with a kt controller, 36v 15a max 8a rated hopefully last longer, I took the unit apart so can see where you mean, dunno what happened , went to go to the shop , base display was off , took a while to get on then started flashing then went off, then was hard to get back on and just did same when eventually did, now won't switch on at all , I'm guessing the 6a rated for the Swytch controller is too low , as I've seen on redit, someone went through four of them only lasting a few days each time, I do live in a hilly area and took it up some big hills to test it , but it was riding fine, problem only showed when I went to take it out again
Strange, I haven't had any problems (yet) been using mine for a couple of years with the standard battery, and a few weeks with the new battery. Can you post a link to the new controller? I might buy one as a backup!
There's limited space to do the splice and run cables in the standard housing (I ran a cable behind the controller and down through the hole in the base, but it's just about doable.
There's limited space to do the splice and run cables in the standard housing (I ran a cable behind the controller and down through the hole in the base, but it's just about doable.
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