sudden power loss

gray198

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out today on Freego Eagle when power suddenly cut out. Battery fully charged and was showing all lights. Luckily I was not too far from home. Wondered if it may be the brake cutout sticking but disconnecting did not make any difference. What can I do to try and find fault bearing in mind that I am not very savvy with technical things. I do have a multimeter if that can be used. Any help would be much appreciated

regards
 

Nealh

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Bad battery contact seems most likely or a cell string voltage collapse if under a load. Most likely the former.
You can't rely on what some led light's are indicating try a proper voltage reading.
Charge the battery and then measure the voltage output from the battery discharge connector.
 
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If your LED display panel switches itself off, the problem is in your battery or its connection. If the LED panel stays on, but the motor cuts out, the problem will be elsewhere.
 

gray198

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If your LED display panel switches itself off, the problem is in your battery or its connection. If the LED panel stays on, but the motor cuts out, the problem will be elsewhere.
when if first failed, I tried the throttle which worked for a while but then that stopped as well. Don't know if that is significant.Is there a fuse anywhere to check first or failing that are there any likely causes. How do I test using multimeter??.

thanks gray
 
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First, you need to tell us whether the LED panel goes off.
 

Nealh

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The battery will have an internal fuse though some are accessible behind a rubber grommet. If the led display lights up then the fuse is ok, if it doesn't then fuse more likely has blown.
If led's are on try disconnecting throttle and brakes to see if it works on PAS alone.
 

gray198

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The battery will have an internal fuse though some are accessible behind a rubber grommet. If the led display lights up then the fuse is ok, if it doesn't then fuse more likely has blown.
If led's are on try disconnecting throttle and brakes to see if it works on PAS alone.
from your reply it would seem that its not the fuse as the led lights are on. I only have the front brake connected to brake sensor and as power went off after using it I thought it could be that but no joy. Will disconnect throttle and see what happens. Just took battery off something is rattling inside it. Not noticed that before
 

Nealh

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What does something rattling in side mean ?
Is it movement of the pack or like a screw or bit of plastic loose.
 

gray198

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sounds like a small screw or bit of plastic loose inside the battery case. May be nothing. Not noticed it before
 

gray198

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I have got it working again. The connector plug near the motor must have worked loose. When I pushed on it it worked again. Just need to check that it is seated properly and hopefully all is well. Just shows, check the simple things first. Thanks for help from d8veh and nealh

regards
 
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gray198

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IMG_20180424_162849.jpg IMG_20180424_162825.jpg IMG_20180424_162858.jpg
I have got it working again. The connector plug near the motor must have worked loose. When I pushed on it it worked again. Just need to check that it is seated properly and hopefully all is well. Just shows, check the simple things first. Thanks for help from d8veh and nealh

regards
well it seems that I was a bit hasty. When I put the junction box back together it stopped working again.. Thinking it may have been a loose wire in there I have rechecked but all seem ok. Battery seems to be ok as the wired in light is working fine. Seems like the problem is elsewhere. I have taken the controller out and and all wires seem to be connected, but the box where it sits (under frame near crank) was full of debris. There is a large hole where cable goes in. The controller itself looks a bit tatty on the outside. Wonder if it may require a new one. I have no idea how to check.I would be grateful for any help

regards IMG_20180424_162849.jpg IMG_20180424_162825.jpg IMG_20180424_162858.jpg IMG_20180424_162849.jpg IMG_20180424_162825.jpg IMG_20180424_162858.jpg IMG_20180424_162849.jpg IMG_20180424_162825.jpg IMG_20180424_162858.jpg IMG_20180424_162849.jpg IMG_20180424_162825.jpg IMG_20180424_162858.jpg IMG_20180424_162849.jpg IMG_20180424_162825.jpg IMG_20180424_162858.jpg
 

Nealh

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Chances are that there is a wire break causing an intermittent contact hence it stopped working when you replaced/moved the controller. Nothing needs power as you are only checking wire continuity via the multi meter using it's battery as the power source.
You will need to carry out a check on each wire with a meter that has a Buzz/audible mode. Start with controller all disconnected and open it up, probe each colour wire at it's solder point on the pcb and the wire end. Buzz =ok, no buzz = wire break.
If the controller checks out, test the connectors wiring with probes at the end of each wire/connector.
 
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Nealh

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Check all connectors as well as occasionally a pin may back out a little or a bullet may not be crimped tightly enough.

Wire checking/testing can be time consuming so write all the wiring down on paper and mark each test off as you go along so you don't get lost, also if you find one bad wire continuity keep testing all to rule out more then one issue.
 
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gray198

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Check all connectors as well as occasionally a pin may back out a little or a bullet may not be crimped tightly enough.

Wire checking/testing can be time consuming so write all the wiring down on paper and mark each test off as you go along so you don't get lost, also if you find one bad wire continuity keep testing all to rule out more then one issue.
Thanks for your help. I have checked the wires and connectors and all seem well. Spoken to Freego and they feel it could be controller which they have in stock but £70. Anywhere to get one cheaper or go with that.

thanks gray
 

Nealh

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Expensive but should just be a swap with correct wire sequence and connectors all the same.
Its an OEM model so may have different wiring, connectors & programming if you knew the manufacturer you could try a std controller however it may not be as simple as plug and play.
 
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gray198

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took it to South Yorks Electric cycles. Very helpful. Are going to fit me a new controller. Tested battery which is 16A, and that is showing 10A. Not bad after 6 years While there been trying an oxygen step through type. Very nice bike at a good price. Very tempted.
 
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10Ah from a 16Ah battery means that it won't last much longer.