Stuck pedals/freewheel

[MikeyDee80]

Ey up folks. Not long since bought an ebike to get to work. It’s a converted regular ol’ push bike. I was knocked off a few weeks back. The electrics were salvageable but the front end was knackered.

Fast forward a few weeks. I have a new bike. With a bit of back n forth I eventually got the kit on including a dnp 9 speed freewheel. Everything aligned nicely. Took it out yesterday for 20mins or so just to check it was okay for morning which it appeared to be.

Got about 5 minutes in and the pedals are locked.It appears the freewheel(?)/gear cog at the back won’t move either way. Does this mean it’s binding on the hub as I’ve read it can do?

Knowing next to naff all about bikes and assuming my guess is correct, trying to find out how to space and what to use is a bit of a pig. Do I use a spacer over the thread that the freewheel threads on to or is it more of a small washer that just goes over the axle - much like the slotted washers in those ebike kits with the locking washers etc? (I’ve used these to pack out the freewheel from the dropout so could I place one behind the freewheel?)

Slightly convoluted post so apologies for that, kinda learning as I go. Thanks in advance folks

 

[Bogmonster666]

Not a freewheel user, and not sure I fully understand your post. When you say locked you mean locked to the wheel so you can't just let the bike coast without the pedals turning. If so, I think you need a spacer between the freewheel and main wheel hub.

If I'm not mistaken, these are the same size as BB spacers and cheap as chips to buy.

Could also be a seized bearing but it sounds to me like the freewheel has tightened against the wheel / hub as you have cycled and needs another spacer to stop it binding?

I'm sure somebody more knowledgeable will correct me...

 

[MikeyDee80]

Ey up @Bogmonster666 thanks for the reply.

Sorry for the jumbled up post. Basically I can’t pedal. It seems locked up at the back/freewheel/gear mech. I can throttle the bike, thank god, as it got me to work but I need the pedal assist to be road legal.

If I try turn the pedal forward. It’s stuck fast. If I turn it backward the chain just loosens off. I know it’s not binding on the outside/dropout as I’ve packed it out with washers - could have slipped and stuck the freewheel which I’ll check - but I’m pretty sure it’s between the rear E hub and the freewheel/cassette.

Just unsure what’s required either those large shim type spacers that would go over the thread the freewheel screws onto or just a regular ol’ washer to sit on the axle itself stopping the freewheel tightening up too much.

Again apologies if this is a little convoluted my written English and getting over what I mean in words isnt my strong point

 

[flecc]

large shim type spacers that would go over the thread the freewheel screws onto

That's almost certainly what you need.
.

 

[MikeyDee80]

Cheers @flecc I’ll measure the thread on the hub it’s self and get summat that’ll fit over.
Unless these threaded hubs are a universal size to make sourcing spacers/shims/freewheels easier? Any recommendations on thickness or does it not matter. Saw some under 1mm on a google search. Just keeping in mind that I don’t leave things too wide for the dropout spacing (141).

 

[Wheelie]

A few photos of the suspected area would make it easier to help.

 

[MikeyDee80]

Cheers @Wheelie when I get home I’ll take the wheel off n take some snaps. Gonna investigate make sure it’s not binding anywhere else …

 

[MikeyDee80]

I’ll take more when I get home. Seems like the spacing is still present where the dropout meets the cassette. The back looks rather well spaced too but I’m not entirely sure of the mechanics of how the freewheel binds …

 

[Nealh]

The spacing to the hub looks fine as does gap at the drop out looks good as well.

The locking up is likely more to do with the internal pawls that allow the cluster to free wheel , does the freewheel pack pedal ok or does it lock up ?
If the latter then the pawls are either stuck or broken.

Take the chain off and see if it also moves ACW by hand.

 

[flecc]

Despite the space at the rear looking ok, it does sometimes happen that the motor boss projection is slightly larger diameter than the freewheel inner so locks against the freewheel outer. If so, a shim that is less than the diameter of the freewheel outer will do the trick.

I've had exactly this happen to me, though in my case I was able to grind off the surplus edge of the motor boss.
.

 

[MikeyDee80]

Cheers @Nealh and @flecc … right. Got home n took the wheel off. Had a check and I think you’re right Neal. It appears the spacers I’ve used (dropout side) allow for friction so they’re trying to spin with the cassette/freewheel. They seemed to go in okay but the first one in was a bit of a swine to get out. Once out it freewheels absolutely fine as it should. I’ve got some washers here but inner diameter is slightly too small and the outer is the same size as the washers I just took out. The plan is to get a round file and open up the inside then grind some outer diameter off with the dremel …. Sound like a plan? Buying stuff, even penny washers would mean waiting while payday. Boooo!!

 

[Cadence]

I didn't know that 9-speed freewheels were available - every day's a school day here!
Just a thought - 9 speed chains are narrower than 5-8 speed. Have you fitted a 9-speed specific chain? If not, a wider chain might be binding between sprockets and locking up the freewheel. Seems unlikely though. I would have thought it would just keep "jumping".
If you have the correct chain I'd take the freewheel off again and check that it rotates anti-clockwise with a healthy "tick-tick". If it does, then I think you are on the right lines in fitting a spacer.

 

[MikeyDee80]

Ey up @Cadence … I spent ages working out what I needed. This 9 speed is from DNP and is designed to go with shimano get up including the narrower chain and the 11t high gear. It matches the shimano cassette almost perfectly. It wasn’t cheap though at £60 but paid it simply to get back out on the road instead of cadging lifts off folk. Got a couple of bits to do and I’ll crack on fettling some washers to fit …. I’ll be back!

 

[matthewslack]

I've used 2p, 1p, 5p as washers in the past...slightly naughty drilling a hole through the monarch, but so far I've got away with it!

 

[MikeyDee80]

Okay so I drilled out some washers and took some circumference off the outside with a dremel. No contact with that freewheel ‘casing’ at all now. It seems to turn fine both ways again having tried it in the front room only, I was in my underpants after a shower and the football was about to come on, priorities eh. I’m quietly confident though. Fingers crossed folks

 

[MikeyDee80]

Worked like a dream on the way to work. Cheers folks for yer help

 

[Sturmey]

I didn't know that 9-speed freewheels were available - every day's a school day here!

I think the 7 speed (older style screw on) freewheels is the limit for ordinary (non electric) older style rear hubs as the axle wont support the longer distance necessary between the bearing cone and the dropout, and the axle tended to bend. The newer casette/freehub design corrects this.
With electric bike, you have a heavier and stronger axle.

 

[Cadence]

I think the 7 speed (older style screw on) freewheels is the limit for ordinary (non electric) older style rear hubs as the axle wont support the longer distance necessary between the bearing cone and the dropout, and the axle tended to bend. The newer casette/freehub design corrects this.
With electric bike, you have a heavier and stronger axleView attachment 51551.

I used to think 7-speed was the limit, but was aware of a few 8-speeds. A stronger hub motor axle allowing a 9-speed screw-on freewheel does make sense. This has opened up a few interesting options for my next DIY pedelec project!