Hi Alex, thanks for the kind words. The main camera view is a Veho Muvi HD 10 cam mounted on a GoPro chest harness.
Have fun
Bob
Storck Raddar Multitask...some observations
- Thread starter Blew it
- Start date
- Status
Have fun
Bob
What strikes me is how defensive everybody is on here about their ebike.
Like most suppliers once the cash is exchanged you disappear.
Every bike I have rode has good and bad points. The perfect bike does not exist.
Some are close , but always a compromise once you get it home.
For me I will try anything, and buy it if I think it's good enough for me.
Only thing that concerns me more , is the fact the manufactures do not listen to criticism. They think they know best. Our designers have spent years developing this latest bike.
Do we know best ? Not always , but a wise man would listen
Like most suppliers once the cash is exchanged you disappear.
Every bike I have rode has good and bad points. The perfect bike does not exist.
Some are close , but always a compromise once you get it home.
For me I will try anything, and buy it if I think it's good enough for me.
Only thing that concerns me more , is the fact the manufactures do not listen to criticism. They think they know best. Our designers have spent years developing this latest bike.
Do we know best ? Not always , but a wise man would listen
Blimey Cakey...normally a man of few words
luckily for us drive technology and choice is improving all the time with the caveat, batteries are not keeping up with developments, and good batteries cost money. We now have a good choice of hub motor bikes for all pockets. More crank drive bikes and systems coming on line, with prices becoming more reasonable, especially for those who can wait and grab a end of season bargain. Direct drive motors have only really been represented by BioniX in the UK but there are many systems using the Go Swiss 36v motor...these bikes are very strong and compete well against other systems, latest Green mover for instance thrashes 36v Panasonic and bosch S class bikes .....The system to watch IMO
luckily for us drive technology and choice is improving all the time with the caveat, batteries are not keeping up with developments, and good batteries cost money. We now have a good choice of hub motor bikes for all pockets. More crank drive bikes and systems coming on line, with prices becoming more reasonable, especially for those who can wait and grab a end of season bargain. Direct drive motors have only really been represented by BioniX in the UK but there are many systems using the Go Swiss 36v motor...these bikes are very strong and compete well against other systems, latest Green mover for instance thrashes 36v Panasonic and bosch S class bikes .....The system to watch IMO
Yes Tappy, I can.
Advertising any product is fair but when statements are made, designed to make the product seem different and better to its contemporaries and they aren't actually true or real, that's just hype.
By way of example, the description of "aircraft quality 7005 grade aluminium" is misleading. The suggestion is that 7005 is better than 6061 grade and that's simply not true. Both those materials have been and still are used in the aircraft industry. The choice is rarely about application, cost being the more likely factor, depending on scale. There are differences between those alloys but unless one has a degree in metallurgy, it's difficult to determine absolutely which material is more appropriate for a particular application.
Moreover, 7005 grade isn't solely the province of high-end bikes; it's used in a number of quite ordinary and even some fairly cheap bike frames. 6061 grade equally is utilised across a wide spectrum. 7005 grade frames can be purchased in most good bike stores and they are not expensive.
As for claiming that grinding down welds increases strength, well that in itself simply isn't true. By grinding down welds, it's possible that imperfections could be uncovered and subsequently repaired but the real reason is to do with aesthetics and creating that all-important impression of care and attention having been lavished on the machine during the construction process which, of course, is no bad thing! There's a number of ways to ensure the integrity of welding work without the need to grind.
As for the super-duper paint job, well once again the description is designed to suggest that everyone else's paintwork is somehow basic and inferior and that's just not the case. Even the cheapest Kalkhoff bikes attract a lovely and hard-wearing paint job these days and my old Gazelle still looks a treat even after spending a lot of time exposed to the elements.
I shan't go on lest anybody get the impression that I really don't like Storck bikes. As it happens, there's a lot I do like about the machines but they are seriously over-hyped and overpriced in the same way as MB cars....you know the stuffy salesman with that classically useless or possibly useful line, (if you're gullible enough!) "After all, it is a Mercedes sir!"
So Tappy, my opinion is based on two things; one, the ridiculous price for a bike that can't go the places that a cheaper Haibike FS can go and two, the advertising hype used to sell the machine. I have a 17Kg Cannondale with Cytronex kit attached which would run the Storck Multitask very close on the flat or over the hills and has a really good ride for a bike with solid fork. Mine costs about half the price of your machine...and the paint finish is pretty good! Also, my battery charges from empty to full in around 90 minutes; how long does yours take?
You have commented pretty objectively about your machine previously Cakey and I concur with you largely. The Raddar model line is essentially a fine bike but imperfect and could be easily transformed into a great bike. As for VFM, once you look at and test-ride some of the competition, it's clearly not worth anything near their asking price, (for any model) as it has limitations which don't inhibit the competitors.
Really, the Raddar is a road bike and primarily because of the price tag, it can't honestly be regarded as a utility bike. Balloon tyres don't transform it into an off-road warrior so its market seems rather narrow. It has a good quality Deore gear set and decent Shimano hydraulic brakes. There is evidence of attention to detail here and there but I'd hazard a guess that not many forum members would wish to swap the comfort and easy gearchanging of their internal hub gears for even a Deore set.
Reasons to buy one? Difficult! Price alone means there are many first-class ebikes from which to choose and I could make a better all-round machine from one of my FS MTBs simply by fitting £500 worth of electrics and taking about an hour to do the work.
Indalo
I would also add as per Indy , this is not an offroad bike by any stretch. It struggles on knarly paths and unless your butt is made of 6061 I would advise a cushion 
For me my next steed will be a full Susser and a few contenders stand out. Light is the key.
For me my next steed will be a full Susser and a few contenders stand out. Light is the key.
Good Morning,
Thank you for all your comments and opinions and time for reply:
In all my post and replies, I write with kindness and some 35 years in the Cycle Trade. When I write ‘No Offence’ it is followed with a smiley face, so it means not offence taken or given its written very light heartedly.
Getting defensive ? We (Storck) are truly passionate about our product and do care about it. If someone here makes an incorrect statement about our product, it deserves to be corrected. Of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Storck Raddar will not be the e-bike for everyone. We all have choice. There is still a huge amount of misinformation banded around on here about Storck Raddar bikes and I’m happy to help correct this. Marketing ?....... Yes. Hype ? ……. I don’t think so, but I will let you decide.
Indalo:
By way of example, the description of "aircraft quality 7005 grade aluminium" is misleading. The suggestion is that 7005 is better than 6061 grade and that's simply not true. Both those materials have been and still are used in the aircraft industry. The choice is rarely about application, cost being the more likely factor, depending on scale. There are differences between those alloys but unless one has a degree in metallurgy, it's difficult to determine absolutely which material is more appropriate for a particular application.
Moreover, 7005 grade isn't solely the province of high-end bikes; it's used in a number of quite ordinary and even some fairly cheap bike frames. 6061 grade equally is utilised across a wide spectrum. 7005 grade frames can be purchased in most good bike stores and they are not expensive.
From my many years in the bike trade with knowledge of just about every frame manufacture / vendor there is around the world, plus Markus Storck’s pedigree and even great knowledge of building high-end Alloy and Carbon frames, plus knowledge gathered from good friends and colleague Scott Montgomery (formally of Cannondale) I have to explain the following.
7005 grade alloy is a better quality alloy for use in high-end alloy bicycle frames. Also Storck frames are Triple butted (top tube and down tube) and double butted Seat tube and rear stays. Therefore much lighter. Not plain gauge (heavier) which is often used on cheaper frames. It’s not difficult to determine which material is more appropriate, it’s down to facts and which is the best for that brand, performance or price. Storck is a performance driven brand, not price driven.
As for claiming that grinding down welds increases strength, well that in itself simply isn't true. By grinding down welds, it's possible that imperfections could be uncovered and subsequently repaired but the real reason is to do with aesthetics and creating that all-important impression of care and attention having been lavished on the machine during the construction process which, of course, is no bad thing! There's a number of ways to ensure the integrity of welding work without the need to grind.
To produce an alloy frame that has the highest strength to weight ratio is a challenge for any manufacture. I had many conversations with Scott Montgomery of Cannondale who explained that in the early days of their (fat) Alloy frame development, they learned very quickly that their frames where failing regularly just behind the headtube welds. After thousands of hours of testing, they realised that if they smooth welded the joints and heat treated the whole frame after welding, it removed all fatigue points and cured the problem.
This technique is widely used on high-end performance alloy frame design, as it is on all Storck Alloy frames. Markus Storck spent a long period of time working with Klein Alloy frames in the US and could write books about the different grades of alloy and how to make the lightest / stiffest frame. Markus is highly regarded around the world for his knowledge and skill in making outstanding Alloy and carbon frames. This knowledge and skill goes into every Storck bike.
Every single Storck frame undergoes thousands of hours of testing at the Storck HQ in Germany. Most manufactures rely on an outside company to do this testing. There is a hugely expensive Test lab at the back of the Storck HQ where the frames are tested. The tests have to exceed all EFB standards before Markus Storck is happy to release it. Marketing Hype ? ……. No, just hard work and fact.
As for the super-duper paint job, well once again the description is designed to suggest that everyone else's paintwork is somehow basic and inferior and that's just not the case. Even the cheapest Kalkhoff bikes attract a lovely and hard-wearing paint job these days and my old Gazelle still looks a treat even after spending a lot of time exposed to the elements.
I’m not suggesting everyone else’s paintwork is inferior. The facts are Powder coating an alloy frame is more expensive than a normal a normal paint finish often used by other frame builders / manufactures.
Really, the Raddar is a road bike and primarily because of the price tag, it can't honestly be regarded as a utility bike. Balloon tyres don't transform it into an off-road warrior so its market seems rather narrow.
That is exactly what it is … a Commuting / City bike. It’s not marketed as anything else. People form their own opinion. We fit Big Apple tyres to make the bike comfortable to ride and not have to spend time and addition expense servicing suspension forks. Of course, if you wish to fit suspension forks, the frame is suspension geometry ready.
I could make a better all-round machine from one of my FS MTBs simply by fitting £500 worth of electrics and taking about an hour to do the work.
That comment did make me laugh
In Summary:
Yes we do listen to comments from the market and look to make improvements. On 27th January we are launching some considerable improvements to the trade and consumers. You will all be informed of these on 27th.
Cheers,
Ian
Thank you for all your comments and opinions and time for reply:
In all my post and replies, I write with kindness and some 35 years in the Cycle Trade. When I write ‘No Offence
’ it is followed with a smiley face, so it means not offence taken or given its written very light heartedly.Getting defensive ? We (Storck) are truly passionate about our product and do care about it. If someone here makes an incorrect statement about our product, it deserves to be corrected. Of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Storck Raddar will not be the e-bike for everyone. We all have choice. There is still a huge amount of misinformation banded around on here about Storck Raddar bikes and I’m happy to help correct this. Marketing ?....... Yes. Hype ? ……. I don’t think so, but I will let you decide.
Indalo:
By way of example, the description of "aircraft quality 7005 grade aluminium" is misleading. The suggestion is that 7005 is better than 6061 grade and that's simply not true. Both those materials have been and still are used in the aircraft industry. The choice is rarely about application, cost being the more likely factor, depending on scale. There are differences between those alloys but unless one has a degree in metallurgy, it's difficult to determine absolutely which material is more appropriate for a particular application.
Moreover, 7005 grade isn't solely the province of high-end bikes; it's used in a number of quite ordinary and even some fairly cheap bike frames. 6061 grade equally is utilised across a wide spectrum. 7005 grade frames can be purchased in most good bike stores and they are not expensive.
From my many years in the bike trade with knowledge of just about every frame manufacture / vendor there is around the world, plus Markus Storck’s pedigree and even great knowledge of building high-end Alloy and Carbon frames, plus knowledge gathered from good friends and colleague Scott Montgomery (formally of Cannondale) I have to explain the following.
7005 grade alloy is a better quality alloy for use in high-end alloy bicycle frames. Also Storck frames are Triple butted (top tube and down tube) and double butted Seat tube and rear stays. Therefore much lighter. Not plain gauge (heavier) which is often used on cheaper frames. It’s not difficult to determine which material is more appropriate, it’s down to facts and which is the best for that brand, performance or price. Storck is a performance driven brand, not price driven.
As for claiming that grinding down welds increases strength, well that in itself simply isn't true. By grinding down welds, it's possible that imperfections could be uncovered and subsequently repaired but the real reason is to do with aesthetics and creating that all-important impression of care and attention having been lavished on the machine during the construction process which, of course, is no bad thing! There's a number of ways to ensure the integrity of welding work without the need to grind.
To produce an alloy frame that has the highest strength to weight ratio is a challenge for any manufacture. I had many conversations with Scott Montgomery of Cannondale who explained that in the early days of their (fat) Alloy frame development, they learned very quickly that their frames where failing regularly just behind the headtube welds. After thousands of hours of testing, they realised that if they smooth welded the joints and heat treated the whole frame after welding, it removed all fatigue points and cured the problem.
This technique is widely used on high-end performance alloy frame design, as it is on all Storck Alloy frames. Markus Storck spent a long period of time working with Klein Alloy frames in the US and could write books about the different grades of alloy and how to make the lightest / stiffest frame. Markus is highly regarded around the world for his knowledge and skill in making outstanding Alloy and carbon frames. This knowledge and skill goes into every Storck bike.
Every single Storck frame undergoes thousands of hours of testing at the Storck HQ in Germany. Most manufactures rely on an outside company to do this testing. There is a hugely expensive Test lab at the back of the Storck HQ where the frames are tested. The tests have to exceed all EFB standards before Markus Storck is happy to release it. Marketing Hype ? ……. No, just hard work and fact.
As for the super-duper paint job, well once again the description is designed to suggest that everyone else's paintwork is somehow basic and inferior and that's just not the case. Even the cheapest Kalkhoff bikes attract a lovely and hard-wearing paint job these days and my old Gazelle still looks a treat even after spending a lot of time exposed to the elements.
I’m not suggesting everyone else’s paintwork is inferior. The facts are Powder coating an alloy frame is more expensive than a normal a normal paint finish often used by other frame builders / manufactures.
Really, the Raddar is a road bike and primarily because of the price tag, it can't honestly be regarded as a utility bike. Balloon tyres don't transform it into an off-road warrior so its market seems rather narrow.
That is exactly what it is … a Commuting / City bike. It’s not marketed as anything else. People form their own opinion. We fit Big Apple tyres to make the bike comfortable to ride and not have to spend time and addition expense servicing suspension forks. Of course, if you wish to fit suspension forks, the frame is suspension geometry ready.
I could make a better all-round machine from one of my FS MTBs simply by fitting £500 worth of electrics and taking about an hour to do the work.
That comment did make me laugh
In Summary:
Yes we do listen to comments from the market and look to make improvements. On 27th January we are launching some considerable improvements to the trade and consumers. You will all be informed of these on 27th.
Cheers,
Ian
Last edited:
Aluminium:
6061 This is the least expensive and most versatile of the heat-treatable aluminum alloys. It has most of the good qualities of aluminum. It offers a range of good mechanical properties and good corrosion resistance. It can be fabricated by most of the commonly used techniques. In the annealed condition it has good workability. In the T4 condition fairly severe forming operations may be accomplished. The full T6 properties may be obtained by artificial aging. It is welded by all methods and can be furnace brazed. It is available in the clad form ('Alclad") with a thin surface layer of high purity aluminum to improve both appearance and corrosion resistance. Applications: This grade is used for a wide variety of products and applications from truck bodies and frames to screw machine parts and structural components. 6061 is used where appearance and better corrosion resistance with good strength are required.
7075 This is one of the highest strength aluminum alloys available Its strength-to weight ratio is excellent and it is ideally used for highly stressed parts. It may be formed in the annealed condition and subsequently heat treated. Spot or flash welding can be used, although arc and gas welding are not recommended. It is available in the clad ('Alclad") form to improve the corrosion resistance with the over-all high strength being only moderately affected. Applications: Used where highest strength is needed.
You average commuter bike probably wont get any benefit from using 7075 but you hard core off road / downhill racer would probably be better off with it!
6061 This is the least expensive and most versatile of the heat-treatable aluminum alloys. It has most of the good qualities of aluminum. It offers a range of good mechanical properties and good corrosion resistance. It can be fabricated by most of the commonly used techniques. In the annealed condition it has good workability. In the T4 condition fairly severe forming operations may be accomplished. The full T6 properties may be obtained by artificial aging. It is welded by all methods and can be furnace brazed. It is available in the clad form ('Alclad") with a thin surface layer of high purity aluminum to improve both appearance and corrosion resistance. Applications: This grade is used for a wide variety of products and applications from truck bodies and frames to screw machine parts and structural components. 6061 is used where appearance and better corrosion resistance with good strength are required.
7075 This is one of the highest strength aluminum alloys available Its strength-to weight ratio is excellent and it is ideally used for highly stressed parts. It may be formed in the annealed condition and subsequently heat treated. Spot or flash welding can be used, although arc and gas welding are not recommended. It is available in the clad ('Alclad") form to improve the corrosion resistance with the over-all high strength being only moderately affected. Applications: Used where highest strength is needed.
You average commuter bike probably wont get any benefit from using 7075 but you hard core off road / downhill racer would probably be better off with it!
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You were doing so well up to that point. Maybe it did make you laugh, but many of us have done it. My Rocky Mountain will blitz a Storck Raddar in just about any performance/specification criteria. Fancy a game of top trumps? If so, you can start.I could make a better all-round machine from one of my FS MTBs simply by fitting £500 worth of electrics and taking about an hour to do the work.
That comment did make me laugh
I'm sure it can be done, no doubt.... that's what I love about this forum....everyones enthusiasm and passion. It still made me laugh...not at, but with
That is simply hype. We are talking bicycle frame; not space shuttle.
I prefer your first answer before the question mark. Maybe you could detail exactly for the wider audience how every single frame is tested over thousands of hours. The mind boggles!
I think that's exactly what you're doing! Powder-coating is unique to Stork, is it?
Sorry but the name, "Multitask" is suggestive of something, is it not?
I'm delighted I made you laugh but you shouldn't really. Some members here have demonstrated how easily any stock bike can be transformed with a cheap kit and rudimentary electro-mechanical skills.I could make a better all-round machine from one of my FS MTBs simply by fitting £500 worth of electrics and taking about an hour to do the work.
That comment did make me laugh
The bikes are nicely finished, I grant you but limited in talent compared to the latest high-end competition. Given what other, more capable bikes cost, Storck bikes are not worth anywhere near the retail price you ask and I feel sure your decision to diversify reflects the low-volume sales of your current range. About £600 off the price and I'd say they're decent VFM.
Well, that's a new one on me NRG! I shall be polite and suggest that you're not a coded welder. There are reasons why welding is ground down and smoothed in particular, rare, applications but had you read my comments on the matter properly, you would have seen that I expressed the very sentiment you have added to your claim about "a well-known method".
Indalo
If you had taken the time to read my reply properly and understand it and then performed some research you would have found it to be well known. Respectfully.
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My ebike conversions are the best ebikes I have ever ridden
This thread is hilarious.
Regards
Jerry
This thread is hilarious.
Regards
Jerry
I thought that grinding welds was normally done when they looked rough , a nice bit of tig work is an art form that needs no hiding
Avoiding stress of the joint can be achieved by not welding in a continuous line.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Avoiding stress of the joint can be achieved by not welding in a continuous line.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hi blew it, i can confirm your comments re lights on both the on/off switch and battery.....ie they do not change on the on/off switch and take time to drop below 3 on the battery . i have not yet run the battery flat, but have done a few 20 milers in quite hilly terrain with battery power still remaining and with assist on full power the whole time.light showing 2 remaining dots.
regarding the regen i have not noticed a problem riding above the assist level and in fact find the bike moves quickly above assist level without a noticeable drag. without checking speed until after the rides i found that on some steep downhill sections i had not exceeded 30 mph due to braking so i guess thats a speed i naturally feel comfortable at. the manual does state that fuse problems are more likely if the power is actually switched off.........would be interested to hear if anyone with a storck has actually had such a problem.......will email storck with this question..........
on steep uphill would also confirm that a good deal of pedal power required from the rider.....but with 27 gears i have not had any problems to keep the bike moving.....difficult to know if the motor is doing its fair share due to its silence at all speeds....(for instance....my wisper is noisy on such hills and clearly struggling ).
still early days for me with the bike and its a pity you did not do a few more journeys with such detail.....especially some without such a strong wind to contend with.
you do not mention the ride much in terms of comfort......there have been lots of opinions suggesting that only front suspension can give a smooth ride on an ebike....do you have a view on this....
thanks for report and video.....i think your verdict in many ways confirms my earlier report which suggested that the bike is more suited to riders wanting some occasional assist rather than riders who want or need continual powerful assist
regards
regarding the regen i have not noticed a problem riding above the assist level and in fact find the bike moves quickly above assist level without a noticeable drag. without checking speed until after the rides i found that on some steep downhill sections i had not exceeded 30 mph due to braking so i guess thats a speed i naturally feel comfortable at. the manual does state that fuse problems are more likely if the power is actually switched off.........would be interested to hear if anyone with a storck has actually had such a problem.......will email storck with this question..........
on steep uphill would also confirm that a good deal of pedal power required from the rider.....but with 27 gears i have not had any problems to keep the bike moving.....difficult to know if the motor is doing its fair share due to its silence at all speeds....(for instance....my wisper is noisy on such hills and clearly struggling ).
still early days for me with the bike and its a pity you did not do a few more journeys with such detail.....especially some without such a strong wind to contend with.
you do not mention the ride much in terms of comfort......there have been lots of opinions suggesting that only front suspension can give a smooth ride on an ebike....do you have a view on this....
thanks for report and video.....i think your verdict in many ways confirms my earlier report which suggested that the bike is more suited to riders wanting some occasional assist rather than riders who want or need continual powerful assist
regards
only just waded through the thread.........once again there are lots of conflicting opinions and heated debate based on 'my bike is better than yours'.
the usual camps form.......ie ' i can make a great ebike for next to nowt and its better than yours and your purpose designed bike is overpriced and underpowered'......from details previously posted about some of these homer jobs many of these seem to be illegal jobs using higher than allowed motors etc and not sufficiently regulated for use in public areas. also does any old donor bike have sufficient design and balance to be motor powered ? just asking like.......
also some of the comments regarding high quality machines such as critic of mercedes are ridiculous and are presented as 'factual'.........
everyone is entitled to their opinions of course but lets please keep comments polite and factual . the original poster produced a very useful report based on one ride and contained some anomalies because he did not fully understand how the bike works. these points were clarified by the retailer who now becomes vilified for entering the discussion and countering the comments of people who have no real experience of the ebike under discussion. comments that your ebike /mercedes /house in london/ are overpriced/over hyped are quite frankly ludicrous in such a forum........
regards to all
the usual camps form.......ie ' i can make a great ebike for next to nowt and its better than yours and your purpose designed bike is overpriced and underpowered'......from details previously posted about some of these homer jobs many of these seem to be illegal jobs using higher than allowed motors etc and not sufficiently regulated for use in public areas. also does any old donor bike have sufficient design and balance to be motor powered ? just asking like.......
also some of the comments regarding high quality machines such as critic of mercedes are ridiculous and are presented as 'factual'.........
everyone is entitled to their opinions of course but lets please keep comments polite and factual . the original poster produced a very useful report based on one ride and contained some anomalies because he did not fully understand how the bike works. these points were clarified by the retailer who now becomes vilified for entering the discussion and countering the comments of people who have no real experience of the ebike under discussion. comments that your ebike /mercedes /house in london/ are overpriced/over hyped are quite frankly ludicrous in such a forum........
regards to all
That's business for you. You have to stay calm and rational while people lose their heads and attack you. And even a hint of attacking them back and they lose the plot. Ah well. 'tis a brief existence we have before the curtain falls.
its a scandal......golfer rory gets 80 million from overpriced low quality sports company nike......
my mate/next door neighbour/any bloke i dont know is a better golfer than him.......
comments please..........but remember i know all about golf/marketing/retailing and i make my own golf clubs in my shed which are much better than nike stuff/rubbish/low quality/high price etc etc etc...... !!!!!!
my mate/next door neighbour/any bloke i dont know is a better golfer than him.......
comments please..........but remember i know all about golf/marketing/retailing and i make my own golf clubs in my shed which are much better than nike stuff/rubbish/low quality/high price etc etc etc...... !!!!!!
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
We've discussed illegality at length and the conclusion was that nearly all e-bikes in this country are illegal - including yours.
"also does any old donor bike have sufficient design and balance to be motor powered ?"
Generally yes, but you can't expect a converted £80 Tesco bike to compete with a Storck Raddar (apart from speed, range and hill-climbing), just as much as a Storck Raddar will struggle to compete with a well-converted high-end bike.
You're quite right. People shouldn't be making these comparisons. If a guy says that his £80 converted tesco bike is better than a Storck Raddar, then, for him, it probably is, so what's to argue about. A guy said that he could make a better bike by adding a £500 conversion. For some of us, that's also true. It's only when people take issue with these statements that discussion occurs. You've prompted it yourself by asking the question quoted above. Don't forget: there's hundreds of people read these posts. Some will want to know about the Storck Raddar to see if it meets their needs/desires. Others pick up on some of the other points like the possibility of building their own better bike with a £500 conversion, so it never does any harm to explain or clarifythese points through discussion, which is one of the main points of participating in a forum.
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Hi Dave, thanks for your detailed reply, very much appreciated.
Perhaps I should start by explaining how I came to be ask for my opinion on the machine. Quite simply, I was ask to note if there was any warning the battery was approaching empty, and at what mileage was the battery completely exhausted. The results are posted at the start of the thread. I was acting in support of a fellow consumer. That task is completed, and I will not be drawn into any further involvement in the matter relating to it.
Anyway Dave, back to your questions. The Storck was ridden as supplied with a rigid seat-post. The pain receptors around my sit-bones have long since switched off, I never get saddle sore on long rides. The wheels on the Stork Raddar have an overall diameter of 28½" and gave the same very comfortable ride over the bumpy bits as a 29er...with the exception of one section of hand-layed Tarmac which appears to be the work of a very drunken navvy!
Passage over this section took on a very bouncy bobbing motion. In fairness to the Storck, the only machine that handles that section well is my fully sprung Tonaro Bighit.Regarding suspension in general, I'm not really bothered whether a machine has any or not. The one thing I quickly re-learned when returning to cycling was to actually look where I was going. One eye on the surface twenty feet ahead and the other on the mirror. And yes, I am going a bit boss-eyed.
Why one eye on the mirror? well it's not a very good idea to use reverse steering effect to flick a bike round a pothole just as the car driver behind thought he was passing at a safe distance. In such cases I go 'light'....up on the pedals, elbows bent and let the bike see-saw through the hole in a natural way. And I have never, ever, damaged a wheel rim in doing so.My opinion of regenerative systems on electric bikes remains unchanged.
That said, the twenty-four miles I rode on the Storck Raddar were thoroughly enjoyable. It was ridden in exactly the circumstances the designer envisaged, Tarmac pave throughout with lots of stops and starts. With the assist level set at just 2 of 8, the machine accelerated quickly, smoothly and silently back up to my normal 16-17 mph cruising speed from a standing start...just as one would in city riding. The problem is, this sort of performance can be very seductive. So much so that some may be tempted to achieve greater distances than possible with the machines limited energy capacity.
To be honest, my own preference is for center-drives.... Panasonic, Bosch or what ever...machines that the rider simply hops onto, switch it on and off we go. Any machine that requires a lecture from a junior on how to ride a bicycle has no place in my collection. (That remark is not aimed at you Dave )
My thanks again Dave for your polite, reasoned and non-judgemental reply.
Happy E-biking and stay safe
Regards
Bob
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Amazon launch their first UK e-cargo micromobility hub- Started by: Pedelecs
