And the rear view which shows the tree in the road:
STREET_MACHINE/STOKE_MONKEY/CRASH TEST (REAR VIEW) - YouTube
"stokemonkey" my Tongxin?
- Thread starter kitchenman
- Start date
STREET_MACHINE/STOKE_MONKEY/CRASH TEST (REAR VIEW) - YouTube
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Excellently captured on film. I couldn't understand what happened before, but now I can see how unlucky you were. Hope you get your bike fixed soon and I'm glad that you're OK.
Thanks. I am pleased that the cameras worked under those conditions and are still working ok - for the next calamity! ..My front tyre was ripped so have just picked up a 20" MP from LBS (last one they had in he shop) .. so, should be attempting my next commute tomorrow ... think I'll wrap my elbow in some neoprene jic! ... I also picked up another DMR/STS chain wheel so I should be able to get rid of the some of the hose pipe and masking tape. - going to switch to the smaller chainring in the hope that I'll be able to get up Beech Hill a bit easier this time! ..
Yes! I'm not an American! ... I'm hoping to get a good performance out of my 175 rpm Tongxin but if I do persist with the SM (stokemonkey) - funny that I have a SM on a SM (streetmachine) ..
... if I do persist then I expect I will need to up the rpms ... but for me its all about configuring the bike for my commute .. which means conquering Beech Hill ...
This is interesting ... because I have "fork plates" with a particular very basic shape (I was thinking about making it lighter and more sexy ...cutting bits away , drilling holes, etc ... ) I can use it to balance on a office stool:
Now.. if I add some telescopic legs I have a travelling bike stand which would be brilliant. when I had THAT puncture I had to lay the bike down on its side to do the repair ...
Now.. if I add some telescopic legs I have a travelling bike stand which would be brilliant. when I had THAT puncture I had to lay the bike down on its side to do the repair ...
Concentrated on the gearing last night and moved the chain to the smaller chainring. 48T to 36T. Had to remove some more links and improve the arms of my chainwheels and move the motor slightly to avoid some chain rubbing ... and then a midnight test ride around Alton including a hill this time! ... was noticably better. Much improved torgue and motor performance. This morning I sat looking at the bike with its bent handlebar, supped some tea and pondered and then snapped out of it and decided to try again! ... So glad I did, had an excellent cycle to work. No messing about this time. No cameras. No photos ... well, except this one which emphasizes my need to make use of things .. in this case a disguarded bit of plastic from a Ultra Motor Fast4ward ...
Here is a photo of the new chainwheel config:
Here is a photo of the new chainwheel config:
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Here are some photos that I uploaded to picasaweb:
https://picasaweb.google.com/112884368251940495642/StreetMachineElectricConversion?authkey=Gv1sRgCKKNn9mU6LKtRA#
p.s. this is mainly from funkylyn who wants to know how to share her picasaweb photos!
https://picasaweb.google.com/112884368251940495642/StreetMachineElectricConversion?authkey=Gv1sRgCKKNn9mU6LKtRA#
p.s. this is mainly from funkylyn who wants to know how to share her picasaweb photos!
One of the things I am concerned about although the evidence suggests that I needn't be ... is my use of the drive side wheel nut. As I have very little axel to screw onto the wheel nut is almost not attached. In fact you could remove it altogether and there would be no difference. My conclusion is that its not needed. I suspect that because I am using slotted "drop ins" the axel isn't going anywhere so I dont need the wheel nuts? Here is a photo:
Another thing that happened this morning is I ran out of battery! ... which is interesting.. suggesting that the motor is not reaching that point where it can generate 36 volts? .. Does this mean that I need yet a smaller chainwheel? Or I suppose a smaller sprocket? - I think for now I'll just use 2 batteries as I have them and enjoy that extra assist a little longer! ..
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I don't know about telescopic legs, but look at this arrangement on a postman's bike that I saw on a recent visit to Germany.
interesting...be great to be able to trigger those stabilizers when there is a front wheel blow out! ... did they lift and fold do you know? or just lift? ... be good to see the bike in motion ...
same thing on the way home... very impressive performance and then at about 11 miles battery started to go ... does this mean I need to get a smaller chainring? 32T perhaps? 28T? .... can it be worked out? Can someone tell me the maths? ...
Alan I think you need to calculate your gear ratios taking into account the following:
what rpm would the tongxin normally be doing if it was a hub motor in a normal bike and you were going along at full speed (e.g.15mph)
What rpm (cadence) do you pedal at when cruising fast? 100?
say for example your fast cruising cadence was 100 rpm and the tonxgin's speed at 15mph on a normal bike was 200 rpm. therefore your stokemonkey drive would have to have half the number of teeth on the motor as you have on your lh crank e.g. 20 teeth on the motor and 40 teeth on the crank.
Hope this helps
what rpm would the tongxin normally be doing if it was a hub motor in a normal bike and you were going along at full speed (e.g.15mph)
What rpm (cadence) do you pedal at when cruising fast? 100?
say for example your fast cruising cadence was 100 rpm and the tonxgin's speed at 15mph on a normal bike was 200 rpm. therefore your stokemonkey drive would have to have half the number of teeth on the motor as you have on your lh crank e.g. 20 teeth on the motor and 40 teeth on the crank.
Hope this helps
Thanks oigoi. Tongxin is rated to 175 rpm. I've learned recently that when the motor spins it generates voltage and when that voltage reaches the voltage being delivered by the battery the power is affectively cut. Now I know that 175 rpm is only a rating but I'm guessing it needs to be up there somewhere before it can generate 36 volts... what I need to do I think is to change the gearing again to allow the motor to spin more.... I can't remember how many teeth I have on the sprocket on the motor but I think its 15. I could just order smaller ones and try them until i get what I want ... although if someone was to say .. I need 8 teeth or whatever , then it would save me some money. - I don't mind the time as I really enjoy messing about with my config! ... Meanwhile, I got two batteries and I'm going to use them!Alan I think you need to calculate your gear ratios taking into account the following:
what rpm would the tongxin normally be doing if it was a hub motor in a normal bike and you were going along at full speed (e.g.15mph)
What rpm (cadence) do you pedal at when cruising fast? 100?
say for example your fast cruising cadence was 100 rpm and the tonxgin's speed at 15mph on a normal bike was 200 rpm. therefore your stokemonkey drive would have to have half the number of teeth on the motor as you have on your lh crank e.g. 20 teeth on the motor and 40 teeth on the crank.
Hope this helps
re: cadence - I'll think about that ...
Thanks for the maths .. I got 36T and 15T I'll see if I can re-arrange the formula! ... ok ,, so I currently got less than half ...
ok - done some maths ... I would say that currently my cadence is about 64 and my motor is rpm'ing at about 160. This would be the result of having gears in the ration of 15 to 36 i.e 2/5 ths or 0.4 which is what I got ...
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