Sticky Hub
- Thread starter Ben Stone
- Start date
Hello, again,
are there any other specifications I need to consider when choosing a replacement hub?
My bike is set up as follows.
Used solely for 5 mile commute. road terrain.
250W Controller set up
24V power
26" Wheel
Do I need to consider brush or brushless?
are there any other specifications I need to consider when choosing a replacement hub?
My bike is set up as follows.
Used solely for 5 mile commute. road terrain.
250W Controller set up
24V power
26" Wheel
Do I need to consider brush or brushless?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The important thing is how many wires are in that motor cable. Is it 2, 3 or 8? When we know that, we can help you with a motor. Do you know how to build a wheel (spokes) so that you cab buy just the motor, or will you need a motor built into a rim?
Hi Ben,
Still think your best way forward is to break down your original brushed motor.
You will be hard pushed to find a new replacement 24v brushed motor, which means you would only be able to salvage the 24v battery and would have to source a complete replacement 24v brushless motor system.
If the windings are intact then it can only be a mechanical failure which can only be diagnosed after you pull it apart. This can be achieved using a hydraulic press or a mechanical hub puller that motor mechanics use.
If you can do this and post further photos I am sure that it might be possible to repair it, rather that go down the more expensive route of fitting an entire new brushless system.
d8veh I understand that this is the same brushed motor bike you helped him with replacing a failed brushed controller with PAS control some time ago.
Still think your best way forward is to break down your original brushed motor.
You will be hard pushed to find a new replacement 24v brushed motor, which means you would only be able to salvage the 24v battery and would have to source a complete replacement 24v brushless motor system.
If the windings are intact then it can only be a mechanical failure which can only be diagnosed after you pull it apart. This can be achieved using a hydraulic press or a mechanical hub puller that motor mechanics use.
If you can do this and post further photos I am sure that it might be possible to repair it, rather that go down the more expensive route of fitting an entire new brushless system.
d8veh I understand that this is the same brushed motor bike you helped him with replacing a failed brushed controller with PAS control some time ago.
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D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Hi d8veh, shemozzle,
thanks for both replies. I am still weighing up both options. I can get a new wheel/hub for $120 and sent with a work consignment from work, so cost wise its reasonble - however with the brush issue I am now not sure if it will work!
My bike at the moment has 250W battery and 24v controller set up to what I believe it brush motor. Looking under perishing sheath, there is only 2 small cables running into motor, yellow + blue. Thats all I have connected motor wise to my controller too.
I have never re-built a wheel with spokes, its looks reasonably straight forward, but if I can it would be easier/better to replace just the whole wheel, but understand it could be a problem with my old brush system!
Thanks again, any more pointers greatly appreciated,
Ben
thanks for both replies. I am still weighing up both options. I can get a new wheel/hub for $120 and sent with a work consignment from work, so cost wise its reasonble - however with the brush issue I am now not sure if it will work!
My bike at the moment has 250W battery and 24v controller set up to what I believe it brush motor. Looking under perishing sheath, there is only 2 small cables running into motor, yellow + blue. Thats all I have connected motor wise to my controller too.
I have never re-built a wheel with spokes, its looks reasonably straight forward, but if I can it would be easier/better to replace just the whole wheel, but understand it could be a problem with my old brush system!
Thanks again, any more pointers greatly appreciated,
Ben
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I've never seen a brushed hub-motor in recent years. All the ones you can buy now are brushless, so if you buy a replacement motor, you'll have to buy a suitable brushless controller as well. You battery must be on its last legs, so if you can afford it, but a complete 36v kit with a battery.
Hi D8veh, thanks for your help. I think you are right!
I am going to take both pieces of advice.
First I am going to see if I can prize open and fix current brush set up. If that fails I will look at purchasing a full new kit for my bike.
Thank you so much for all your help. I will probably back on if/when I can get my hub apart!
Thanks again,
Ben
I am going to take both pieces of advice.
First I am going to see if I can prize open and fix current brush set up. If that fails I will look at purchasing a full new kit for my bike.
Thank you so much for all your help. I will probably back on if/when I can get my hub apart!
Thanks again,
Ben
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
That thing with the three screws is the clutch, except that it may be a fixed plate rather than a clutch. They normally slide off the axle and have a key-way to stop them rotating on the axle. if it's stuck, you need a three-legged puller to pull it off. It will look something like this when off:
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/support/parts/8-fun-clutch.jpg
It looks like the motor has had salt water in in. If you're lucky, it might free off with plenty of penetrating oil.
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/support/parts/8-fun-clutch.jpg
It looks like the motor has had salt water in in. If you're lucky, it might free off with plenty of penetrating oil.
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Hi D8veh, I am giving it all a good clean, the housing is looking nearly new, whilst the hub itself is also starting to look good, I am really struggling to remove the screws and plate/clutch. I have put some WD40 on in the hope it help loosen them. Am I supposed to be cleaning it to free up the cog wheels? should they be free to move or when powered?
Hi Ben,
While not a brushed motor like yours this thread shows one of similar construction to yours and how the owner refurbished it:
http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/saneagle.15132/#post-186940
While not a brushed motor like yours this thread shows one of similar construction to yours and how the owner refurbished it:
http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/saneagle.15132/#post-186940
Hi Ben,
There are 2 stub axles mounted on the internal motor body, one mounted on the cable outlet side and the other on the side with the large disc which prevents the removal of the 3 nylon planet gears.
When they are clamped in the forks all of this is stationary and only the armature inside of the internal motor body turns which has a small sun gear that engages with the 3 nylon planet gears, when they turn they drive the ring gear in the outer body shell of the motor which is attached to the wheel.
The outer body is free to rotate on the 2 main bearings.
You are getting closer to finding the answer to your problem.
You need the right sized posi/phillips drive to mate with the screw otherwise you will not be able to apply enough torque to the screw head to undo it and may damage the head with the wrong sized driver which will then require drilling out to remove it. See if you can find someone who has the right tools - tip - try slightly tightening the screw first to break any corrosion before trying to untighten it.
Once you remove the disc/stub axle you will be able to remove the 3 nylon planet gears and check the condition of their teeth and their bearings.
If they are OK then you can move on to looking at the motor armature, commutator and the armature bearings/bushes.
There are 2 stub axles mounted on the internal motor body, one mounted on the cable outlet side and the other on the side with the large disc which prevents the removal of the 3 nylon planet gears.
When they are clamped in the forks all of this is stationary and only the armature inside of the internal motor body turns which has a small sun gear that engages with the 3 nylon planet gears, when they turn they drive the ring gear in the outer body shell of the motor which is attached to the wheel.
The outer body is free to rotate on the 2 main bearings.
You are getting closer to finding the answer to your problem.
You need the right sized posi/phillips drive to mate with the screw otherwise you will not be able to apply enough torque to the screw head to undo it and may damage the head with the wrong sized driver which will then require drilling out to remove it. See if you can find someone who has the right tools - tip - try slightly tightening the screw first to break any corrosion before trying to untighten it.
Once you remove the disc/stub axle you will be able to remove the 3 nylon planet gears and check the condition of their teeth and their bearings.
If they are OK then you can move on to looking at the motor armature, commutator and the armature bearings/bushes.
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Good morning,
this is great, thank you, thanks for the tips too!
I have spent must of the weekend cleaning the hub and getting rid most of the the gunk and dirt. I even managed to get behind the planet gears and fish out a lot of mess. The gears, when using my fingers, are now turning all in conjunction, so I am hopeful I am on the right track.
I left it over night and tried to loosen the plate screws, but these are proving really tough to work out. I am waiting on a friend who I am hoping has the right head for the job. Once I have the plate off, I will be back in touch.
this is great, thank you, thanks for the tips too!
I have spent must of the weekend cleaning the hub and getting rid most of the the gunk and dirt. I even managed to get behind the planet gears and fish out a lot of mess. The gears, when using my fingers, are now turning all in conjunction, so I am hopeful I am on the right track.
I left it over night and tried to loosen the plate screws, but these are proving really tough to work out. I am waiting on a friend who I am hoping has the right head for the job. Once I have the plate off, I will be back in touch.
Those screws are not budging! I have tried a near perfect match with the screw heads and they will not budge. Slightly irked! I have sprayed some WD40 on them in a hope they will ease tomorrow.
On a positive note, I wired up the motor and the hub is back turning again! Still quite loud but I assume that is something to do with something lurking behind the planet gear plates.
I will try the screws again tomorrow.
On a positive note, I wired up the motor and the hub is back turning again! Still quite loud but I assume that is something to do with something lurking behind the planet gear plates.
I will try the screws again tomorrow.
Hi Ben,
It is probably a 2 man job to get enough pressure on the screw while trying to stop the motor assembly turning as well.
You could try and bolt the bare assembly back into the forks without the outer shell, that should hold it firmly in place but you would need someone to support the bike while you can concentrate on turning the screwdriver bit.
It is probably a 2 man job to get enough pressure on the screw while trying to stop the motor assembly turning as well.
You could try and bolt the bare assembly back into the forks without the outer shell, that should hold it firmly in place but you would need someone to support the bike while you can concentrate on turning the screwdriver bit.
Hi Ben,
It can be frustrating sometimes, even for me a so called engineer, I have to bite the bullet and call on outsiders who have the proper equipment to do the job.
If they cannot be moved by handtools then I am afraid that they will need to be heated up and probably tapped out using an impact driver to remove them.
As I have already mentioned I have used a local car workshop on previous occasions to help me out and have never been charged as the mechanics were fascinated by the items I took in to them.
If you could also do this I would also ask them to free the other 6 screws which hold the 2 parts of the inner motor together at the same time. This would then give you free access to all the moving parts.
It can be frustrating sometimes, even for me a so called engineer, I have to bite the bullet and call on outsiders who have the proper equipment to do the job.
If they cannot be moved by handtools then I am afraid that they will need to be heated up and probably tapped out using an impact driver to remove them.
As I have already mentioned I have used a local car workshop on previous occasions to help me out and have never been charged as the mechanics were fascinated by the items I took in to them.
If you could also do this I would also ask them to free the other 6 screws which hold the 2 parts of the inner motor together at the same time. This would then give you free access to all the moving parts.
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