Some advice needed please...

[Cadence]

I have a couple of pannier bags here that sit on the top of the rack only. I was hoping one of them would be large enough to accommodate the battery. I would have fitted some internal padding to protect it in case of the bike tipping over so in the meantime I am going to keep an eye out for something like that. With a pannier bag under the battery and draped down each side, it would look very discreet indeed I suppose.

AJ

You and I have obviousy been thinking along the same lines! I thought the battery on top of the rack would scream "ebike" and wanted to disguise it. I wanted a rack top bag to enclose it - even to the extent of cutting the bottom out and just sliding it on top, but I couldn't find one long enough.
In the end I bought a battery cover off ebay:-
Bike Battery Protective Cover Water Proof Bag Ebike Battery's Battery Cover | eBay
I think it's a different size to yours but there are lots of different ones on ebay.
Ok, it's still battery-shaped, but combined with a pair of roll-top pannier bags it's a reasonable disguise, particularly with a light waterproof jacket strapped on top.

 

[guerney]

My battery is disguised a bit by two waterproof rucksack covers, secured using velcro.

 

[Bogmonster666]

I believe the TSDZ2B will be sufficiently powerful for my own bike if I alter the gearing. I too have seven gears on the rear. I will have to determine if the gears can be changed, if seven of a different ratio would suffice or if I would need to change to a greater number of gears. The question there is what is actually on my bike at the minute, can I even change to a bigger cassette, freewheel hub etc and if it fits, can I actually select the gears due to chain line. I must add at this point that the seven on my wife's bike change with no issue and no excessive noise

Hard to say without seeing the bike. If you can get away with 7 or 8 speed, that is cheap to maintain. 10+ is starting to get expensive in consumable transmission parts.

If you want to change to more teeth on the rear, the rear derailleur might not have enough capacity. Cheap to change rear derailleur or you can get an extension bracket and use existing derailleur. You can also change the front chainring but you won't get smaller than 42t dished. Hard to say what the chainline will be like on a non-dished chainring.

Finally you can probably install a double chainring - accepting that you almost certainly won't get outer chainring and inner rear sprockets to work (not an issue as you should be on the inner chainring anyway by that point). I can get up long 16% hills on 42t / 28t and 26" wheels. I'm sure shorter, steeper hills would also work but think I need slightly lower gearing really. Reluctant to push my luck with long steep hills without a bit of a thermal mod and / or lower gearing as I expect the motor will generate too much heat.

 

[AJ_P]

You and I have obviousy been thinking along the same lines! I thought the battery on top of the rack would scream "ebike" and wanted to disguise it. I wanted a rack top bag to enclose it - even to the extent of cutting the bottom out and just sliding it on top, but I couldn't find one long enough.
In the end I bought a battery cover off ebay:-
Bike Battery Protective Cover Water Proof Bag Ebike Battery's Battery Cover | eBay
I think it's a different size to yours but there are lots of different ones on ebay.
Ok, it's still battery-shaped, but combined with a pair of roll-top pannier bags it's a reasonable disguise, particularly with a light waterproof jacket strapped on top.

I don't like the idea of the battery being on full display though in our case it will never be left alone long enough for anyone to steal it. Apparently though there are such specimens among the human race and if an opportunity presents itself there is always someone willing to seize it.

I just prefer the battery being ensconced in a padded shell so to speak that will give it a bit of protection should the bike tip over onto something that could potentially crack the Hailong case or even worse penetrate a cell. The latter isn't particularly likely but stranger things have happened and I'm a firm believer in thinking ahead. The fact too that such a bag would tie neatly in with the small side bags especially if a similar colour gives it a discrete appeal.

Early days though and if I find something that fits the bill, I'll give it a go.

All the best,

AJ

 

[AJ_P]

Hard to say without seeing the bike. If you can get away with 7 or 8 speed, that is cheap to maintain. 10+ is starting to get expensive in consumable transmission parts.

If you want to change to more teeth on the rear, the rear derailleur might not have enough capacity. Cheap to change rear derailleur or you can get an extension bracket and use existing derailleur. You can also change the front chainring but you won't get smaller than 42t dished. Hard to say what the chainline will be like on a non-dished chainring.

Finally you can probably install a double chainring - accepting that you almost certainly won't get outer chainring and inner rear sprockets to work (not an issue as you should be on the inner chainring anyway by that point). I can get up long 16% hills on 42t / 28t and 26" wheels. I'm sure shorter, steeper hills would also work but think I need slightly lower gearing really. Reluctant to push my luck with long steep hills without a bit of a thermal mod and / or lower gearing as I expect the motor will generate too much heat.

Here's a very interesting video on the subject of dual front chainrings on the TSDZ2 where the chap appears to be happy with the result he has achieved. It opens at the appropriate part.

You've probably already seen it but for anyone who hasn't, he has fitted two non dished chainrings, a 34 and a 46 tooth onto the Tongsheng TSDZ2. Originally his bike had a three chainring setup so in his case at least the front derailleur had enough travel to enable this to work for him.

I very much like the idea of that. It's certainly appealing enough to give it some serious thought and it'd be very interesting indeed to experiment with it so that may be an option for the future, though I wouldn't want to spend too much just in case.

All the best,

AJ

 

[Nealh]

My ute's tsdz2 has a double 32/42t set up .

 

[Bogmonster666]

I very much like the idea of that. It's certainly appealing enough to give it some serious though

I'm first going to get a cheapo chainring and try on the inner and outer positions to check chainline. Might give a double a try after that.

 

[AJ_P]

My ute's tsdz2 has a double 32/42t set up .

Hello Nealh,

That's great to hear!

Non dished I presume? Does it work well?

Would you have any pics of your set up to help us form a plan for our own bikes?

All the best to you,

AJ

 

[AJ_P]

I'm first going to get a cheapo chainring and try on the inner and outer positions to check chainline. Might give a double a try after that.

You mean a non dished one?

AJ

 

[Bogmonster666]

You mean a non dished one?

I do. Really just want to check chainline and see if I can sort out a front derailleur config that works before spending much money.

 

[AJ_P]

I do. Really just want to check chainline and see if I can sort out a front derailleur config that works before spending much money.

I'll be very interested indeed to see how you get on. If I get around to it first I'll be sure to let you know.

All the best,

AJ

 

[Bogmonster666]

I've got a flat 42t chainring on the way so will see what rear sprokets work with that on the inside and outside positions. If it looks promising I'll get a 34t as well and a new front derailleur. The whole exercise will likely take some time as I want to test with minimal outlay rather than buy everything upfront. Having just bought a used kids bike for convesion to a cargo trailer I ideally want a smaller chainring to minimize strain on the motor gubbins - not that I plan to tow anything very heavy.

 

[Bogmonster666]

The 42t flat chainring allows me to access the 7 sprockets when on the inside position of the spider. The lowest gear is a bit of a stretch but I think I can remove a 2mm spacer and improve the chainline a bit.

Not tried on the outside but I suspect the lowest one or two sprockets will not work well but by that point I should have shifted to the small chainring anyway.

A 34t inner chainring is easy to source but I'll also need a new front derailleur as the original was a bit 'odd'. The seat tube appears to be a non standard size so will buy a triple band derailleur of a larger size and pick it and possibly offset it a bit to get extra reach. I'll be using a friction shifter rather than indexed as my big chainring has no ramps or pins and I'll need to over shift and then move the derailleur back a bit when shifting up.

I think it will 'probably' work...

 

[AJ_P]

The 42t flat chainring allows me to access the 7 sprockets when on the inside position of the spider. The lowest gear is a bit of a stretch but I think I can remove a 2mm spacer and improve the chainline a bit.

Not tried on the outside but I suspect the lowest one or two sprockets will not work well but by that point I should have shifted to the small chainring anyway.

A 34t inner chainring is easy to source but I'll also need a new front derailleur as the original was a bit 'odd'. The seat tube appears to be a non standard size so will buy a triple band derailleur of a larger size and pick it and possibly offset it a bit to get extra reach. I'll be using a friction shifter rather than indexed as my big chainring has no ramps or pins and I'll need to over shift and then move the derailleur back a bit when shifting up.

I think it will 'probably' work...

Are you going to try a 34 and a 42 together?

I got a puncture in the back tyre of my bike so took it off for the first time and discovered it doesn't have a cassette back there. If I want to do any experimentation in that area then it's going to mean a new wheel. At least if a functional dual front ring configuration can be made to work then I don't need so many cogs at the back I suppose.

Good to hear you're making progress. I'm itching to get going with converting mine. Hopefully I'll get a motor etc soon for this one. I'm definitely leaning towards the TSDZ2B though I see the first review has been released for the Toseven. It's expensive though...

All the best,

AJ

 

[Sturmey]

.......... I'll also need a new front derailleur as the original was a bit 'odd'. The seat tube appears to be a non standard size ......

Just as regards above, I have found the clamps on the front derailleurs to be reasonably soft/malleable and easy to work and easy to change/increase the diameter by fitting a longer bolt and filing the corner a little as shown in photo below. The clamp can be reshaped (for example) by using a socket the same size as seat tube to wrap clamp around and tapped lightly with a light hammer while tightening the longer bolt.
It may be necessary to stuff something like a bit of strong semicircular plastic between frame and derailleur to get derailleur to extend out further but this should be possible.
The other thing I found is that its possible to change the chainrings without removing the crank or pedal by removing the inner five allen bolts on spider and pulling it out the few mm thats spare. Putting back the retaining circular nuts onto inner chainring is tricky/tedious but this does spare possible damaging/loosening the right alloy crank arm from repeatingly taking them off/putting them back on.
I hope the above helps.

 

[AJ_P]

Just as regards above, I have found the clamps on the front derailleurs to be reasonably soft/malleable and easy to work and easy to change/increase the diameter by fitting a longer bolt and filing the corner a little as shown in photo below. The clamp can be reshaped (for example) by using a socket the same size as seat tube to wrap clamp around and tapped lightly with a light hammer while tightening the longer bolt.
It may be necessary to stuff something like a bit of strong semicircular plastic between frame and derailleur to get derailleur to extend out further but this should be possible.
The other thing I found is that its possible to change the chainrings without removing the crank or pedal by removing the inner five allen bolts on spider and pulling it out the few mm thats spare. Putting back the retaining circular nuts onto inner chainring is tricky/tedious but this does spare possible damaging/loosening the right alloy crank arm from repeatingly taking them off/putting them back on.
I hope the above helps.View attachment 51932

Hello Sturmey,

Would you mind telling me how many gears you have on the back wheel and can you access all of them with the dual chainring set up you have? I'm debating whether to go with a dual chainring or change to a 9 speed cassette for which I would have to replace the rear wheel.

All the best,

AJ

 

[AJ_P]

For anyone interested, here's another dual chainring Tongsheng conversion just posted....

A longer travel front derailleur is required so an update will hopefully be provided soon.

Regards,

AJ

 

[Sturmey]

Hello Sturmey,

Would you mind telling me how many gears you have on the back wheel and can you access all of them with the dual chainring set up you have? I'm debating whether to go with a dual chainring or change to a 9 speed cassette for which I would have to replace the rear wheel.
All the best,
AJ

I have rearranged the rear gear cluster to 14, 16, 19, 24 & 34 t and all moved to the most outer position. Thats 5 gears only at 7 speed spacing (5mm pitch).
The smaller 34t inner front chainring works perfect with all gears. The larger 44t outer chainring works well to the 14, 16, 19 & 24.
I have the 36 Volt version with throttle. My main concern was to get lowest gears 34 front to 34 rear working well which is the case.

 

[Bogmonster666]

I still only have one chainring as waiting for parts. However, it is a flat chainring on the inner position and I can acces all 7 of the rear sprockets. The largest is a bit of a stretch but I think I can improve it a bit by removing a 2mm BB spacer I think is unnecessary. I'll have 12-32t on the back and 34 and 42t on the front.

The outer chainring, once fitted will almost certainly not work on the biggest sprockets but not a problem.

I have ordered a triple FD (hopefully it will have more travel than a double) and with a bigger band diameter than my seat post. My plan is to 3d print an eccentric offset spacer to move the derailleur right a couple of mm. A better option may have been a direct mount derailleur with a direct mount band as it is very easy to make an offset spacer for these. I may also be able to do a sturmey and modify the band but hope to avoid the need for that.

The derailleur is coming from AliExpress so might take a couple of weeks.

 

[AJ_P]

I have rearranged the rear gear cluster to 14, 16, 19, 24 & 34 t and all moved to the most outer position. Thats 5 gears only at 7 speed spacing (5mm pitch).
The smaller 34t inner front chainring works perfect with all gears. The larger 44t outer chainring works well to the 14, 16, 19 & 24.
I have the 36 Volt version with throttle. My main concern was to get lowest gears 34 front to 34 rear working well which is the case.

I actually have eight gears on the back wheel so it will be interesting to see if that will work with the standard TSDZ2B chainring. For some reason I had it in my head that there were only seven. I have just bought the motor and battery for this bike so I will see shortly.

All the best,

AJ