Solid / Puncture Proof Tyres any advice please?

Just bought some puncture proof tyres, after re-assurance that these to me 'solid' replacements (20 x 1.5) will replace the existing (20 x 1.95) pneumatics that are fitted. The rims are HB 422's by the way. The solids look a bit narrow to me, but expect they spread as they are stretched on?

My two local cycle shops are terrified of 'electric' bikes and won't work on them, even to change tyres, because of the connections for the back drive wheel apparently.

Assuming they are the right size? does anyone have knowledge if are they easy to replace, any advice gladly accepted.

Many thanks

Edited February 7, 201313 yr by Geriatric

Hello Wissy,

Exactly, I've found a distinct rejection of all things ebike round here. One shop said "no we don't work on them". When I used your analysis I was advised, "but you have to disconnect all the wiring"... which I couldn't quite grasp. Even if this was so, surely it's not far removed from unplugging a socket - no degree in electronics necessary I would have thought - very strange?

Solid tires are dreadful.

Bin them and get some proper puncture protected "pneumatic" tyres.

But yes, they should fit - the "20" is the important bit. the "1.5" is just the width, and you can vary that quite alot - i.e. go thinner or wider. The ones you have are thinner than the ones you're replacing. You'll have fun fitting the solid tyres - hope you've got about 30 strong zip ties handy and you don't bend your rim in the process.

no degree in electronics necessary I would have thought - very strange?

The reasoning maybe as follows...

In almost every 'service' industry there's an O'h boll***s factor that in most cases where you have a full range of service parts at hand is not an issue.

Like a stuck wheel nut / cross threaded axle and so on.. and its easily fixed, just either swallow the cost of the extra time (cos the job cost was quoited) and charge the extra parts.

If on replacing the wheel of an electric bike there is a motor fault or any other electrical fault that the customer swears was not there when the bike came in = a world of pain for the untrained / un stocked bicycle repair man / woman

Edited February 7, 201313 yr by Old_Dave

Just bought some puncture proof tyres, after re-assurance that these to me 'solid' replacements (20 x 1.5) will replace the existing (20 x 1.95) pneumatics that are fitted. The rims are HB 422's by the way. The solids look a bit narrow to me, but expect they spread as they are stretched on?

 

My two local cycle shops are terrified of 'electric' bikes and won't work on them, even to change tyres, because of the connections for the back drive wheel apparently.

 

Assuming they are the right size? does anyone have knowledge if are they easy to replace, any advice gladly accepted.

 

Many thanks

Hi there, I had solid on my old electric bike for about 4 years untill i upgraded. The tires were Greentyre - tyres without air Bicycle tyres which i had ordered through my local cycle store. The store was also reluctant to orders these.

Fitting the tyres required an element of faith that these tires would stretch at the required moment. But i admit i had to sleep on the problem. Basically a matter of cable ties and a special plastic paddle to leaver the the tire on.

As for the ride, well it is different. Its a harder hasher ride and its also best if you avoid groves or markings on the road which are running in the same direction you are traveling. In this respect, cycling on solids can be a little 'skittish'. Also make sure every thing on your bike is secure, as the extra vibration can be telling.

On the plus side i never had to worry about flats. The bike would always be ready for travel. The heavier rare wheel of an ebike seem to attract punctures on my first ebike. These days my preferred tires, after recommendations by the group, is the Schwalbe Marathon Plus. Even then i've got the old green slime inside my tubes for those hard to catch slow leaks.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Schwalbe-Marathon-26X1-75-Smartguard-Reflective/dp/B000NNR6LK/ref=pd_sim_sg_19

Edited February 7, 201313 yr by Ajax

I'd send those solid tyres back and get a pair of these. Seriously ! The link in previous post is for larger tyres than your bike takes but these should fit :

Schwalbe Marathon Plus 20X1.75 Wired Tyre with Smartguard Reflective S/Wall 710g (47-406) - Black: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

You only have to unplug a hub motor in order to remove a wheel and change a tyre. It's about as simple as it gets (even I could do it !!!). Fitting any of these kind of puncture-proof tyres (like big knobbly ones) can be hard work if you haven't done a few before and got your hand in with it. However if you want to have a go yourself I'm sure people will give you a step-by-step guide.

Bike shops can be very frustrating - the shop which agreed to tune my bike up on its 1st service managed to overtighten a screw and crack my chainguard (now being replaced at £35 cost to me as the damage was hidden under a screw and I didn't find it till I went to change the tyres) and make a £50 job out of adjusting the brakes and rear wheel, something I've about 5 times since when working on various things and learning how to do it myself.

If you're able to, do give it a go. Not feeling you have to take the bike into a shop for routine basic work is extremely liberating (not to mention a great pension-sparer !).

Hi folks I have put into my tyres the slim tube sealer stuff and so far Ok, you can repair most puntures on E-bikes without taking the wheel out of the bike by removing the tube on the bike and fixing it.

Also most E-bike now have a connector to the rear wheel motor that you can disconnect.

But my feeling is if the slim does not seal it then its possible a new tyre and tube!!!

Call a Taxi!!!

Bob:)

Schwalbe Marathon Plus , the best puncture resistant tyres on the market. In my opinion.

However, what is the big deal? It takes, probably 10 minutes to fix a puncture, with the wheel on.

If the wheel needs to come off for a new tube, use a spanner and disconnect the motor.

Surely, this most basic of cycle repair must be mastered by all cyclists? before embarking on a trip.

Wheel removal?

Looks easy enough with a crank drive bike.

From what I have picked up so far rear hub wheel removal is not so simple as some would have you believe. I have asked retailers about wheel removal for easy transport in the car boot and no one has advise it was easy.

My son had those awful green tyres on his bike years ago when he was young he has only just about forgiven me for it.

Schwalbe Marathon Plus , the best puncture resistant tyres on the market. In my opinion.

 

However, what is the big deal? It takes, probably 10 minutes to fix a puncture, with the wheel on.

If the wheel needs to come off for a new tube, use a spanner and disconnect the motor.

 

Surely, this most basic of cycle repair must be mastered by all cyclists? before embarking on a trip.

I don't like mentioning this, but for the sake of my dignity feel I need to respond.

Following a little dispute at the bottom of the world 30 odd years ago, I'm now limited to one arm.

The bike in question is used by my wife for work. Whilst she never complains at mending punctures, I still feel inept and inadequate, even after all this time, in not being able to help much.

My aim is always to be self sufficient in everything I do. I therefore sought a solution to a not infrequent problem, hence the request for opinion and advice on match and fitting.

My thanks to those who have replied, suitably admonished I'll now withdraw...

Edited February 8, 201313 yr by Geriatric

It's brave of you to explain - must take a lot to spell all that out - and can hardly imagine how frustrating it must be to have to work around limitations like that. Makes complete sense why you'd want to go down the solid route.

If your local shops aren't willing to help and you / your wife are willing to give it a go together you can rely on people on here to guide you both through the process of fitting the tyres you have bought.

I don't like mentioning this, but for the sake of my dignity feel I need to respond.

 

Following a little dispute at the bottom of the world 30 odd years ago, I'm now limited to one arm.

 

The bike in question is used by my wife for work. Whilst she never complains at mending punctures, I still feel inept and inadequate, even after all this time, in not being able to help much.

 

My aim is always to be self sufficient in everything I do. I therefore sought a solution to a not infrequent problem, hence the request for opinion and advice on match and fitting.

 

My thanks to those who have replied, suitably admonished I'll now withdraw...

Apologies for assuming that you were fully functioning. I can now see your dilemma.

I'd still recommend the Marathons. Solids just do not give the road holding required to remain safe.

I would also recommend the marathon plus for best protection (although I prefer continental travel contact which are lighter /grippier but not quite as bullet proof)

Whilst I fully understand you reasoning for solid tires I would agree with several of above posters and suggest you sell them on or bin them. Fine for wheelbarrows but hopeless and I'd argue even dangerous on a bicycle. They do not deform when cornering in the same way, do not grip so well and prone to slipping out. That's aside form the ride whih is not nice either

Where do you live ? There is always a network of helpful bikers - maybe I can find some for you ?

Yes, of course we would, no problem. Call us on (01702) 435566.

Hatti, Woosh Bikes

Yes, of course we would, no problem. Call us on (01702) 435566.

Hatti, Woosh Bikes

I love this forum :-)

I'm gonna try some of these with my existing tyres, see how they go as while the wheels off currently I can fit easily.

Michelin C4 Protek Max Tube | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

Yes, of course we would, no problem. Call us on (01702) 435566.

Hatti, Woosh Bikes

We reside near Frinton on Sea, (North Essex) but would be happy to drive down to Southend to get them fitted. I'm glad to make contact, as I'd like to get this bike serviced every year and it's a relief to find a specialist who at least will consider working on such a device! It's a Pro-rider e-Wayfarer by the way, new in November last year.

Thank you everyone, all very helpful opinions for which I'm very grateful. After watching this video Link we then removed the front wheel and measured it's width, (as shown), which was 26mm and so the 1.50's were, as I'd suspected too narrow.

I am returning them for a refund after the weekend. We are definitely going the 'PP' route as my wife's journey is less than 4 miles return (along the promenade next to the sea, not public roads) twice a week. Any deterioration in ride quality is compensated by corollary utility of a puncture free existence.

Recently local 'children' (definitive purposes only!) are spreading tacks across the ride way. Unfortunately this activity is cyclic (no pun intended) and provides seasonal variety for the major past time of murdering sea-gulls.

Puncture proof inner tubes (available in 20 x 1.95) are another exactly matched consideration Link/tubes hopefully they're easier to fit too!

Apologies for assuming that you were fully functioning. I can now see your dilemma.

I'd still recommend the Marathons. Solids just do not give the road holding required to remain safe.

Hello and thanks for your post and easily understand the thinking behind your comment.

The reason I undertook this course of action (puncture proof consideration) was in direct recognition to my physical limitations re puncture repair, within an E-bike suspicious environ.

Pre planning would also certainly be a maxim for others to consider including Politicians, Bankers, NHS bosses etc...

Reading an old motor cycle book,

(Motor Cycle Cavalcade, by Ixion)

I see that pre First World War, motor cyclists carried butt ended inner tubes (i.e. instead of a hoop, they were a straight pipe with butt ends), so there was no need to remove the wheel to replace the tube.

Is it too late to urge you to reconsider?

Those solid tyres are truly dreadful, and will be genuinely difficult to fit to a 20" wheel.

You mention tacks.

The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres to which you've been referred are tack-proof, or at least the tread is.

I'm not a big fan of YouTube clips, but this one is only a couple of minutes and features a young man who inserts a ring of tacks into a Marathon Plus to prove the point:

Puncture proof inner tubes (available in 20 x 1.95) are another exactly matched consideration Link/tubes hopefully they're easier to fit too!

I think you may have come upon a compromise there that would be a better ride than going with solid tyres... if you installed these inner tubes then you could likely get away with cheaper tyres than Schwalbe Marathons - but even with the hasstle of getting the bike to hatti to get punctures fixed if you were unlucky enough for them to go through the SmartGuard protection I'd still consider putting them on. If Protek Max self-healing inner tubes were available in 20" tyre sizes you'd have even more peace of mind with definitely no deterioration in ride quality but so far as I know they only come in 26" and 28" sizes - however sounds like those Bluetube inner tubes are a similar thing (nice find !).

I actually use self-healing inner tubes and puncture-resistant tyres (bike is huge and very hard to fix roadside) .. fingers crossed have never had a puncture.

Just thought I'd mention this too if getting a puncture would cause you or your wife a major headache getting the bike home in order to get it off for fixing :

Bicycle Roadside Assistance | Cyclist Rescue & Recovery | Cycleguard

Won't come out for you if within a mile from home as they figure you can walk it but nonetheless it's a fix for any risk of being stranded 4 miles from home and unable to do a roadside repair .

Edited February 9, 201313 yr by 103Alex1

Reading an old motor cycle book,

(Motor Cycle Cavalcade, by Ixion)

I see that pre First World War, motor cyclists carried butt ended inner tubes (i.e. instead of a hoop, they were a straight pipe with butt ends), so there was no need to remove the wheel to replace the tube.

Simple and effective I would think, I expect today a combination of the EU & H&S would find them suicidal and ban them? (along with everything else!)