Smartmotion Pacer hall sensor help

VernonW

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Hello, I own a Smartmotion Pacer and recently it quit working on me and started throwing a hall sensor code. I've been trying to figure out what kind of hall sensors it takes. The motor is a Dapu m155 hub motor. Thanks for your help!
 

Nealh

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The vast majority will use SS41F designation a pretty standard type to use but you will need to check the sensor first, these work off the positive magnet poles.. Recently someone tried this on his hub and it didn't work because his hub used two hall types and one was reverse hall polarity sensor and used by the sounds of it a SS41A type using negative magnet poles.
 
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VernonW

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The vast majority will use SS41F designation a pretty standard type to use but you will need to check the sensor first, these work off the positive magnet poles.. Recently someone tried this on his hub and it didn't work because his hub used two hall types and one was reverse hall polarity sensor and used by the sounds of it a SS41A type using negative magnet poles.
Thanks for your help. My sensors have no numbers or anything on them. I'll give it a try.
 

Andy-Mat

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Hello, I own a Smartmotion Pacer and recently it quit working on me and started throwing a hall sensor code. I've been trying to figure out what kind of hall sensors it takes. The motor is a Dapu m155 hub motor. Thanks for your help!
You might be a good candidate for an e-bike tester, which will check your Hall effect sensors, amongst many things, which will tend to stop you dismantling the motor for no reason, at all, as it could be wiring or controller. They are very cheap, under 20 UK Pounds generally and use an inbuilt 9 volt battery, not the bike's battery.
I hope that helps you further.
Andy
PS. The more I mention these, I really think that I need to buy one for myself and my neighbours!
 

Nealh

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They might be good but how can you recommend it when you have never tried it ?
 

Nealh

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Hello, I own a Smartmotion Pacer and recently it quit working on me and started throwing a hall sensor code. I've been trying to figure out what kind of hall sensors it takes. The motor is a Dapu m155 hub motor. Thanks for your help!
What type of connectors to the controller Vernon ?
 

Andy-Mat

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They might be good but how can you recommend it when you have never tried it ?
Good question:-
I had it exhaustively shown to me, in action, after I asked what they thought about it!
I was completely convinced by two points:-
1) How easy it was to use and
2) the fact that the bike battery was not needed for all the tests, that they showed me. (Sometime before the end of last year, the units may have even improved since then!)
I guess I spent over an hour chatting about it in the shop workshop. They demonstrated it showing just how simple it is to use, and how they are saving time over always using Multi Meters and an O' scope as they had previously.
Particularly with regard to brake sensors, hall effect sensors and motor field damage. Plus some other tests that I have now forgotten about...
Though of course, such test equipment as Multi Meters and an O' scope, is also needed to have "handy" in such a workshop.....
But for them "Time is Money!"
I myself do not need to get "hands on", just to believe two totally professional bike mechanics! Seeing is believing and I was completely fascinated by the simplicity of use.....
This summer, though I do not yet have a pressing need, but just because they are so cheap and very effective, I am going to buy one!!
I wish you a great day.
Andy
 

Nealh

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If you use a bike with WP connectors or even a lot of kits use now then they can't be used for diagnosis.
 

VernonW

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The vast majority will use SS41F designation a pretty standard type to use but you will need to check the sensor first, these work off the positive magnet poles.. Recently someone tried this on his hub and it didn't work because his hub used two hall types and one was reverse hall polarity sensor and used by the sounds of it a SS41A type using negative magnet poles.
Thanks for your help. My sensors have no numbers or anything on them. I'll give it a try.
What type of connectors to the controller Vernon ?
Not sure what you mean. All the plugs are round and black but are different variations like possibly a 9 pin on the motor. (not sure) I'll try to find a picture.
 

VernonW

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The vast majority will use SS41F designation a pretty standard type to use but you will need to check the sensor first, these work off the positive magnet poles.. Recently someone tried this on his hub and it didn't work because his hub used two hall types and one was reverse hall polarity sensor and used by the sounds of it a SS41A type using negative magnet poles.
 

Nealh

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Round Black = Julet or Higo WP(waterproof) with coloured internal ends to id them for pin outs, these can't be used with the £10 plug in diagnostic device.
 

Andy-Mat

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If you use a bike with WP connectors or even a lot of kits use now then they can't be used for diagnosis.
It would be good to read about that in full detail, if you have the time!
regards
Andy
Round Black = Julet or Higo WP(waterproof) with coloured internal ends to id them for pin outs, these can't be used with the £10 plug in diagnostic device.
Oh but they can, assuming that its only the connector that is different (you did not mention that either way!), all you need is the ability to purchase the connectors and be reasonable at soldering, to make adapter cables. Testing on a "failure free bike" will make sure that everything works, if and when needed.
Or buy some quality , insulated crocodile clips or similar, to allow connecting to just about anything, though some croc connectors are possible too wide for safe usage.
I used the quality ones from a logic display that I had from Gould (many years ago), that would allow connection to any sort of pin or wire and were very small/thin. But I do not know who actually made them, as they were supplied with the (huge and heavy) display.
But adapter cables are a great way to go.
Andy
 

Nealh

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The soldering up of a Y/adapter test leads is in the main beyond most people. They will cost more then the tester it self by the time someone buys the Julet's with tails a suitable pin out connector, solder iron, lead solder, heat shrink etc,etc.
 

Andy-Mat

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The soldering up of a Y/adapter test leads is in the main beyond most people. They will cost more then the tester it self by the time someone buys the Julet's with tails a suitable pin out connector, solder iron, lead solder, heat shrink etc,etc.
Even if the cost of the e-bike tester is doubled with the extra adapter leads, that is still a very cheap and very effective test option, and one that many with little or no electronic/electric knowledge can still profit from dramatically.
Knowing for example that the motor and its sensors are not defective, but the battery is, would be wonderful help for many. It would probably reduce the number of discussions for people needing assistance on pedelec dramatically, if they all possessed such a unit! Who knows?
Remember, if you have to return parts, you want to return the defective part knowingly, not a good part affected by the defective part, surely?
Or even having to return a complete bike, especially if outside of the guarantee time, that postage will cost far more than the e-bike tester and some test leads, assuming they will be needed, as on many bikes with fairly standard connectors, such extra adapters will not even be required!
The postage will be gone, but you have the test equipment forever!
Remember, just to get a bike to a remote repair shop, because not everyone buys locally, though I would recommend that for someone with no proper knowledge of electrics, do buy locally!
Here are some e-bike testers at the low end of the price range on ebay UK, starting with ones supplied directly from China, where most are actually made, but will take 10 to 20 days to arrive:-
In all, there were 5 of them under 8 UK Pounds, with free postage.
There were then a further 6 testers, under 10 UK pounds, including postage!
So if we double that for the connectors needed, and I am sure that many people know someone able to solder a few wires together, for say 25 UK pounds total outlay, or less, you then have an e-bike tester and the possibly, if needed, the required adapter leads!
I am quite sure that with people here of your caliber, we could put together some guidelines and simple schematics, so that if the person doing the soldering, does not know what is needed, we could help them!
Now that's a total price for the e-bike tester, and adapter leads, would come out at about the same price as a reasonable quality, low end, Multi meter might start at.......and for someone with little knowledge, a multi meter is for them, not that easy to master.....
But I sincerely believe that for a good DIYer, both units are a good acquisition!
Now whether or not someone wishes to invest in any test equipment or not, is their personal decision of course, but for many, that will be a "no-brainer!"
If anyone requires further information, please just ask and I will do my best to answer any questions.
Regards to all
Andy
 

Nealh

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I still say for the average bike user it is beyond a lot of folks to solder up the leads needed.
 

sjpt

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though I would recommend that for someone with no proper knowledge of electrics, do buy locally!
For many buying locally gives a choice of the notoriously unreliable low end Halfords bikes, or bikes with Bosch drive. From posts here Halfords seem pretty bad at fixing their bikes when there are problems, and as I am sure Andy-Mat will agree, even the dealers aren't allowed to fix much on the Bosch ones.
 
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Andy-Mat

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I still say for the average bike user it is beyond a lot of folks to solder up the leads needed.
In one respect, the level of knowledge often demonstrated on Pedelec, I would tend to agree with you.
But also, the people WITH the knowledge (less than "O" level physics IMHO), would not be writing to Pedelec asking for help either in the first place!
We see the sort of request for help here, where the problem is not fully described, parts have already been removed and replaced, wires that were previously not connected, have been connected, phots are either not posted, or are dreadfully out of focus, and and and!
Polarity is apparently a strange word for some, basic safety is a few more!
So we often do tend to get the uninformed e-biker, who reminds me of the song:- "Fools striding confidently, where Angels would fear to tread!"
Its part of the deal here I guess......
I think a few more here would possibly like to gain some knowledge about e-bikes, to allow themselves to feel safer and confident, so we must always try and help further.....
I always try and make my comments as "self evident" as possible, as even if a question is still generated, they might have at least improved the problem details, to help us here supply a fix.....
Andy
 

Andy-Mat

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For many buying locally gives a choice of the notoriously unreliable low end Halfords bikes, or bikes with Bosch drive. From posts here Halfords seem pretty bad at fixing their bikes when there are problems, and as I am sure Andy-Mat will agree, even the dealers aren't allowed to fix much on the Bosch ones.
Sadly, I have to agree with you completely.
And it is no better here than in the UK with regard to Bosch bikes and motors......I sometimes think, even worse.....
Thanks for your accurate comments.
Andy