Slime tube did it for me!

[soundwave]

kit is for 2 wheels.

 

[GLJoe]

I dont do anything extreme or go where its excessively muddy, in fact most of my riding is on the road these days, and really cant be bothered with tubeless so have ordered an MP..
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-rigid-mtb-tyre/

For what you've described, the Marathon MTB should be a good choice.
I bought some for this last (continuing!) winter, and they've not only been tough as nails (I've actually had to pull huge bits of hawthorn hedge cuttings out of them, but they never went through to the tube), and the solid center ridge of rubber actually makes them pretty good as a road commuting tyre.

They are crazily heavy though. Something like 1.3KG each. (although I did go for the widest ones - 2.25" ?)
Not so much of an issue on an e-bike, but I'm not sure I'd stick them on a non, electric!

 

[soundwave]

there 1270g each thats even more heavy than my sg tyre 1050g, could be a Right pita to fit them on some rims took an hour to fit my rear sg tyre. and was so tight pumped up first time with no sealant.

 

[Gubbins]

there 1270g each thats even more heavy than my sg tyre 1050g, could be a Right pita to fit them on some rims took an hour to fit my rear sg tyre. and was so tight pumped up first time with no sealant.

No pain no gain.. I have only ordered one for now so will see how it goes.. I have MP's on the Road bike so have experience of fitting, and also a bead jack...

 

[soundwave]

what you could do is get normal tubes and fill them up with sealant like stans remove the valve core and pump in 60ml.

diy slime tubes i guess

 

[Gubbins]

what you could do is get normal tubes and fill them up with sealant like stans remove the valve core and pump in 60ml.

diy slime tubes i guess

Do the valve cores actually come out. I seem to remember this being commented about on another thread.

 

[soundwave]

it is what that black plastic thing is when buying inner tubes

 

[soundwave]

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Park-Tool-VC1-Valve-Core-Tool_66322.htm?sku=197615&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrGVahCdnlRH1fPgwSfDvE8FsKPXvB6laMtxY7cUsa7_76rMFiLuQekaAkTrEALw_wcB

 

[MINKY]

im pretty new to the cycle game but not to off roading ...i do tend to travel on green paths and got a couple of punctures ..so fitted slime tubes for the winter
..totally different expieriance ..just thorn punctures but the slime tubes were usless ...the other thing was blowing the bead back on not possible witha pump

did the stans conversion it works fine but i think the yellow tape is poor ....much better would be 3m extream sealing tape much more pliable and seals much better too stans stuff is to flimsy and not very compliant in my view

DSC_0992 by minkyhead56, on Flickr

slime tube pictured you can see it coming out of the tyre ..theres 7 patches on that tube ? these tyres are ace in function but way thin ..i were getting flats near every ride
DSC_0995 by minkyhead56, on Flickr

DSC_0983 by minkyhead56, on Flickr


that said had at least 7 punctures on the rear and it sealed instantly and ive not had a flat since ..so tubless is far better than slime tubes off road for sure so pretty impressed by the stans liquid
SSS by minkyhead56, on Flickr

here s the 3m extream tape in use on a motorcycle rim imho its way supitior to the stans stuff

solved the bead thing by using lezyne co2 thingy ...i do carry a tube as well

3m extream tape

DSC_1023 by minkyhead56, on Flickr

som my expieriancce with slime tubes is zero out of ten ...useless ..???
i do think slime works with amaby a thicker tube and on a tubless tyre but on my set up it was a total flop

 

[soundwave]

https://www.rapidracking.com/en/rra/handy-roll-gorilla-tape-wh109g215?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrFNrbo0YXKh3OZ6tyVbAnuhbaIfvfNihKyCqKfOtlzKhTF8isEGD9oaAl3ZEALw_wcB

 

[MINKY]

https://www.rapidracking.com/en/rra/handy-roll-gorilla-tape-wh109g215?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrFNrbo0YXKh3OZ6tyVbAnuhbaIfvfNihKyCqKfOtlzKhTF8isEGD9oaAl3ZEALw_wcB

gorilla tape ..yes ive heard of folks using it and it must work ..what puts me off is the sealent inside that may eventually get it to lift and water working on it through the spokes ???

...ive no expiriance but thats my main fear ..the 3m may be overkill for a pushbike i guess but its the real deal when it comes to sticking ..so far the stans stuff has been ok but i wenrnt impressed by it as it went on ..quite surprised it seeled tbo

anyway three options but if i was given it to do again ..it would be the 3m ..if it can seal a enduro dirtbike tyre ..it should monster a push bike and wont be effected by moisture long term ..its temperature resistant 130c to minus 20 pretty high spec stuff

i wish the slime tubes had worked ..as blowing the bead back on is much easier with atube ..but my expieriance with the tubless set up is pretty dam positive ..road punctures seem pretty rare ive not had one so its all relevent to the type of use as well ..to throw a spare tube in twice a year and patch it is no big deal ..but i were getting trounced by puctures near every ride

i need to test that leyzine thingy now im tubeless to see if it will seat the bead ..i needed 2 16gto get thetyre to pop with a tube ..im thinking maby a 25gm will have enough braaap to put a tubless back on the rim .im hampered by 29 in 2.60 tyres too so they take quite a lot..what them bigfoots take doesnt bear thinking about .. 6 maby ?
first time it blew the tyre up to about 18 ...got excited and stuck anothe cartaridge in ..and proceeded to **** the lot into the air and weld it to me hand ..must remember to close the valve ...opps
i then tried to inflate the tube with closed valve ..and eventually when i actually used it right it popped the beads on ..problem being i think id nedd that continouse flow to get the tubless on ??
it seems to have stopped the puncture problem pretty well and ive always got the option of using a tube to seat one side or leave it in ......

other than that im havin a ball

 

[RobF]

CO2 cannisters and tubeless is not a good mix - the CO2 gas degrades the sealant over time.

Fine to get you home, but you should then let the tyre down and fill with ordinary air.

 

[Altop1]

Slimed tubes for me .

 

[Gubbins]

Interesting and conflicting views, and its always good to look through more than one eye to see more clearly.. I ride mostly over the moor roads with a few trails, bridleways and canal type paths so rarely do serious off roading, dont like messing with a flat and dont want the hassle of setting up tubeless so am quite chuffed that 18 months has passed without one. When the bike was new I had a flat within the first 5 miles on the canal on the rear (why is it always the rear?) so bought 2 Slimes and 2300 miles or so later the tyres have never been off which is just how I like it, and as
I tend towards overkill I have ordered an MP and a new slime tube which are arriving today (Yodel tracking 52 stops before me).
Does the fact that I have had no flats mean the slimes have worked or have I really had none? Can anyone be that lucky? Will soon see when I take off the old tyre..
Judging by yesterdays experience I wonder if some rotational speed is needed to make the slime work (spinnyfugal force an all that), also, I doubt it will work when the offending sharp is still in the tyre so maybe removing it and reflating may be the answer.
Pumps.. I have had a few mini pumps and all were useless on a 29 inch MTB tyre and blowing one up felt like an hours workout in the gym so bought a co2 thing and also stuck to it when it froze.. Now I have a good quality mini folding track pump which will blow up the tyre if I ever need it to.

 

[Tom Rae]

........................................
Judging by yesterdays experience I wonder if some rotational speed is needed to make the slime work (spinnyfugal force an all that), also, I doubt it will work when the offending sharp is still in the tyre so maybe removing it and reflating may be the answer............................

Gubbins, whilst spinnyfugal does distribute the goo so that it is potentially in the right place at the right time, the actual puncture just requires the fluid to contact air. I am a tubeless convert and ran all my analogue mtb's on them and over a period of 10 years I cannot recall any flats. When I got my emtb it had tubes and I decided not to go tubeless until I changed tyres. On my first ride I had a puncture so I swapped over to Slime tubes then as a compromise. My experience with slime tubes was different to yours, on a trail I ran through some prickly "hedge trimmings" and shortly afterwards I ground to a halt on the flat bit of the tyre. I pumped it up but it was only a short distance before it was flat again. As always, it was a night ride in the rain so I just continued to put air in and limped home. Next morning I took off the tyre and found about 7 thorns in the carcass however the slime tube was oozing fluid so I pumped it up and it held up fine this time. Why it did not seal on the trail mystified me unless the fluid oozing from the tube had limited access to air due to the carcass? Regarding the offending sharp, on my tubeless set up, I tend to leave them in or, if they are a nuisance, turn the tyre/wheel round so that the sharp is at the bottom and the fluid is in the vicinity then pull them out, there may be a pffft but they should seal quickly. Full blown tubeless (forgive the pun) is the way to go, a faff at the beginning but well worth it.

Tom

 

[Gubbins]

My MP came yesterday and I am glad I have the bead jack as this tyre will almost run without air as it is ... STIFF!! and a bit skinny looking as its only a 2.1.
Took it for a quick test ride in the Snow mud and dark and it seemed ok going across a waterlogged field full of ruts and underwater bits, if a bit bumpy, but unfortunately my fingers and toes disappeared after only 15 minutes so had to turn around and come home. Shame as I like riding in the snow..
I think they way forward is to ensure that "my next bike" is delivered tubeless, that way I get the benefit without the hassle and with a 6K price tag I expect it to be done FOC.

 

[Gubbins]

Pics of rims with hook at outside edge.. for future reference are they tubeless?

 

[Tom Rae]

Pics of rims with hook at outside edge.. for future reference are they tubeless?

I would say so as I cannot see the spoke ferrules but get someone else to confirm. The other advantage of tubeless is running at lower pressures giving a more compliant ride for older bones without the risk of pinch flats.

Tom

 

[RobF]

Pics of rims with hook at outside edge.. for future reference are they tubeless?

Those rims are not tubeless ready because they lack the ledge for the tyre bead to seal on.

That doesn't mean tubeless would not work, but getting the bead to seal might be difficult.

The spoke bed is neither here nor there - that rim tape is not tubeless ready, but it's simple enough to replace it with some that is.

Some installers use a wrap of Gorilla tape anyway as a belt and braces measure.

 

[Gubbins]

Those rims are not tubeless ready because they lack the ledge for the tyre bead to seal on.

That doesn't mean tubeless would not work, but getting the bead to seal might be difficult.

The spoke bed is neither here nor there - that rim tape is not tubeless ready, but it's simple enough to replace it with some that is.

Some installers use a wrap of Gorilla tape anyway as a belt and braces measure.

Thanks for the info. Means I made right decision with the mp's.