Slime tube did it for me!

18 months and 2200 miles I had my first puncture today. Going downhill far too quickly when I heard the pssswsssswss and just hoped it wasn't the front cos I didn't fancy hard braking at 40mph on a flat front tyre.

As I slowed the psssswssssws got weaker and by the time I had stopped so had it and there was a small green blob on the tyre to prove it works.. was a bit soft but got me home..

I have always assumed that the tubes must have fixed numerous punctures but this is the first I can prove.

 

Need a new tyre anyway so looking for one that has some resistance .. don't fancy messing with tubeless

tubeless is way less hassle than tubes id never go back to them.

 

less waight

can run lower psi

no pinch flats

no need to remove the wheel

top up every 3 months

 

the hardest part is seating the tyre on the rim but if you have a air compressor it will go on first time.

 

1l of sealant will last 2 years as i still got half a bottle left and only bought 2 since i had this bike in 2014.

 

tho if you dont shake it up now and then it goes like this prob 2 tyres worth there that i lost but plenty of other brands to try

 

some ppl even mix this in with it and some brands also has this mixed in

https://www.theworks.co.uk/p/card-making-supplies/6-glitter-tubes/5052089146617?cm_mmc=GooglePPC-_-GoogleShopping-_-AdWords-_-5052089146617&CAWELAID=720011340000058506&CATARGETID=720011340002585951&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrHmjAnMGj4GtqZe7b8j6zFyrmODJtdGJFp1JbWOSx4iJpxaD06QqO0aArEWEALw_wcB

I hear what you are saying sw but I don't even know if the rims are tubeles . How do you tell if the rims are suitable?

They usually have some garish sticker with "Tubeless Ready" written on it...

tubeless ready rims have no holes for the spokes so no rim tape is needed that is the only difference.

 

if you have a loose fitting tyre then just use more rim tape to get a tighter fit.

Wheelset

 

Shimano Hubs on Syncros Rims Front: 15mm, Rear: 142/12mm axle

 

Tyres

 

Schwalbe Nobby Nic Evo 29x2.35

if you have a air compressor you wont have any problems my rims are tubeless ready but my front was so loose i had to take it to the garage and use the air comp on blown tyre mode to get it on.

 

or you can get these.

https://www.mountain-trax.com/2146/products/topeak-joe-blow-booster-track-pump.aspx?currency=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrEaVNmFBIQzo2BmLRUQaViW8p1_ykM7euOACra7JC-oV7I1ZOB0QZEaArt2EALw_wcB

Rims don't have a tr stamp.

it does not matter as that is what the rim tape is for if you get new tyres just get some that are tr ready and you will have a more easy time seating them on the rim.

it does not matter as that is what the rim tape is for if you get new tyres just get some that are tr ready and you will have a more easy time seating them on the rim.

You make it sound so easy...

put it this way when i first got my bike the first thing i had to do was add more sealant with a new front tyre i bought from evens but when they said the tyre and sealant and them to fit it was going to cost 100 quid so i done it my self.

 

tried it with a foot pump and got nowhere other than pissing sealant everywhere took it down the garage and used the air comp and bang went on first time.

But remember even with tubeless tyres, which I don't run, you still need to carry a spare tube.... just in case

But remember even with tubeless tyres, which I don't run, you still need to carry a spare tube.... just in case

Always do.. just need to sort a new rear tyre that's good for road and light trail.. with puncture protection.. don't want the faff of tubeless

But remember even with tubeless tyres, which I don't run, you still need to carry a spare tube.... just in case

i have never had a puncture that would not seal because if it dont a tube will be a waste of time anyway unless you plug the hole first.

 

don't want the faff of tubeless.

 

get the lbs to set ur wheels up tubeless as after that all you need to do is top up the sealant.

Remember tyres come in lots of compound variations, so you can always go for a thicker, more puncture resistant tyre, in the same brand.

 

I had a tyre which punctured every time I was out, changed to the stiffer compound, no more punctures.

 

I personally don’t like tubeless, as I like to strip my bike totally and clean it within an inch of its life. Having said that I ain’t no downhill champion either, I just like a day in the hills.

 

It’s all a balance of what you want to do and what suits you. Remembering if you do puncture a tubeless tyre in the field, it’s a pain to get on and off and full of slime, and you won’t have a compressor to re-seat it in the back of beyond either…. But that’s an exception.

 

For what I do, tubes are fine, I’m sure the tubeless guys and gals have their own reasons… each to their own.

tubeless ready rims have no holes for the spokes so no rim tape is needed that is the only difference.

 

The internal profile of a tubeless ready rim has a ledge around each edge for the tyre bead to seal on.

 

Most tubeless rimes have spoke holes the same as any other, but they will come with thicker, 'tubeless ready' rim tape fitted.

 

More or less any hybrid/mtb rim can be aet up tubeless, but the correct rim profile of a tubeless ready rim makes for a better job.

 

Caution is needed with narrower, road rims.

 

Some indication the tyres are more likely to blow off the rim if tubeless.

 

Apparently, the inner tube plays a part in gripping the tyre and keeping it on the rim.

I dont do anything extreme or go where its excessively muddy, in fact most of my riding is on the road these days, and really cant be bothered with tubeless so have ordered an MP..

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-rigid-mtb-tyre/

why not have both tubes and tubeless

https://www.evanscycles.com/schwalbe-procore-29-tubeless-system-set-EV238599?lsft=esvt:52824-GOUKE2025796,esvq:,esvadt:999999-0-1146072-1,esvcrea:166226705405,esvplace:,esvd:c,esvtg:pla-300399498440,esvo:EV238599-NA-NA,esvaid:50080&esvt=52824-GOUKE2025796&esvq=&esvadt=999999-0-1146072-1&esvcrea=166226705405&esvplace=&esvd=c&esvtg=pla-300399498440&esvo=EV238599-NA-NA&esvaid=50080&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrHO3fW2ep16jc9OkHEwjm1vglTRT-iH_L_VJJkiG5TMvnCtpvbyDcYaAs2GEALw_wcB

Is that per tyre?

kit is for 2 wheels.

I dont do anything extreme or go where its excessively muddy, in fact most of my riding is on the road these days, and really cant be bothered with tubeless so have ordered an MP..

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-rigid-mtb-tyre/

 

For what you've described, the Marathon MTB should be a good choice.

I bought some for this last (continuing!) winter, and they've not only been tough as nails (I've actually had to pull huge bits of hawthorn hedge cuttings out of them, but they never went through to the tube), and the solid center ridge of rubber actually makes them pretty good as a road commuting tyre.

 

They are crazily heavy though. Something like 1.3KG each. (although I did go for the widest ones - 2.25" ?)

Not so much of an issue on an e-bike, but I'm not sure I'd stick them on a non, electric!

there 1270g each thats even more heavy than my sg tyre 1050g, could be a Right pita to fit them on some rims took an hour to fit my rear sg tyre. and was so tight pumped up first time with no sealant.

there 1270g each thats even more heavy than my sg tyre 1050g, could be a Right pita to fit them on some rims took an hour to fit my rear sg tyre. and was so tight pumped up first time with no sealant.

No pain no gain.. I have only ordered one for now so will see how it goes.. I have MP's on the Road bike so have experience of fitting, and also a bead jack...

what you could do is get normal tubes and fill them up with sealant like stans remove the valve core and pump in 60ml.

 

diy slime tubes i guess