Short Cranks on Bosch DU

[EddiePJ]

I didn't get many anyway and the number proably hasn't changed

I have always been sort of amused by the changing pedal crank length, just to gain a few mm. It seems a follow the herd approach. I never had pedal strikes on the KTM Lycan when I owned it, but have had plenty on other FS eMTB's that I have tried. Dropping say 15mm-20mm on crank length wouldn't of made any real difference to those bikes, but being wary and conscious of seemingly every pedal stroke, did. Correct suspension set up and riding teqnique make the biggest difference.

Thankfully no such issues on the hardtail.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Read quite a few articles including the one below and 170-175 mm cranks are really only the "standard" because of manufacturers, not any real benefit in performance:

https://www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/the-benefits-of-reducing-your-crank-length/

To summarize, athletes are free to select a crank length that promotes comfort, power, and aerodynamics knowing that the actual length of the crank will not impact power production or efficiency.

I am going to get some 152 cranks for the trike for; ground clearance, better aerodynamics, better visibility (seeing over my knees) and even faster spinning.

 

[Gringo]

I always been sort of amused by the changing pedal crank length, just to gain a few mm. It seems a follow the heard approach.

You wouldn't find it quite so amusing if you'd had multiple knee OP's leaving you with arthritis and limited movement.
Ground strikes have never been a problem for me either, even with my 160mm cranks & offsett pedals being lower than 175 cranks but that's down to choice of line and preemptive pedal position

 

[Doomanic]

I always been sort of amused by the changing pedal crank length, just to gain a few mm. It seems a follow the heard approach. I never had pedal strikes on the KTM Lycan when I owned it, but have had plenty on other FS eMTB's that I have tried. Dropping say 15mm-20mm on crank length wouldn't of made any real difference to those bikes, but being wary and conscious of seemingly every pedal stroke, did.

Thankfully no such issues on the hardtail.

I suspect that the type of riding we do is very different.

It is, however, totally irrelevant to my question.

 

[EddiePJ]

So what type of riding are you doing that requires shorter pedal cranks?

 

[anotherkiwi]

So what type of riding are you doing that requires shorter pedal cranks?

You are a powerful rider and I have read here that you suffer from knee injuries, have you thought of shorter cranks?

 

[EddiePJ]

You are a powerful rider and I have read here that you suffer from knee injuries, have you thought of shorter cranks?

It isn't something that I have ever had any interest in.

My knee pain is associated with muscle wastage to my legs, which then adds strain to my knees. I sadly have to really work at keeping muscle tone, but luckily it isn't something that affects me too much day in day out, as it comes and goes.
Pedal assist also gives me all the additional help that I want, and as said above, even with the rocky terrain that the alps throw up, pedal strikes have never been an issue for me. The only time that I ever get pedal strike, is when using flats, which I hate any way and don't use. Those strikes of because of pedal width, not pedal crank length.

Changing pedal crank length would also have an undesirable influence on seat post height and geometry that I don't want.

 

[Trevormonty]

I'm always hitting cube FS 175mm cranks, never have problem on unassisted HT.

There is no avoiding it sometimes unless I want tp walk bike through rocky sections.

 

[Russelliow]

I put shorter cranks on my kapoho, I think they were 150-160mm. The bike was a little down on power but I now have much less pedal strikes. Also I noticed its easier to pedal at higher cadence. No updates were done with regards to crank length on my bike.