retro kit from conhis not working

[Tiberius]

Can you keep the voltmeter connected to monitor the battery voltage as you do this? That would be a better indication of what's going on than the LEDs.

Nick

 

[wanabee]

flecc

just disconnected the motor totally and same result

red led on
green leds off
and put battery back on charge

if this is controller would it damage the motor motor ?

 

[wanabee]

Tiberius
how do i do that ?
the more i can test the better
thanks for your quick responce

 

[flecc]

just disconnected the motor totally and same result

if this is controller would it damage the motor motor ?

This does seem to indicate that the controller or wiring into it is faulty, but it's unlikely to have damaged the motor.

To check the voltage as Tiberius suggests when repeating this test with the motor not connected at all, connect your meter to the blue and damaged brown leads from the battery. Then observe the meter readings as you switch on or connect and let us know what the meter does.

P.S. If there's no convenient point to connect the meter to the blue and brown wires, push thin tailoring pins into the insulation to connect to the wire within, taking care not to have them too close so they can touch, then measure by connecting to the pins.
.

 

[wanabee]

thanks for the help
btw i have change the battery lead for a pc power lead and put 2 crimped spade end on
i just put to pins in the wires and the volt meter was 41.2 then switch on and droped to 0.06 - 0.03 i have put battery on charge for 5 hours on timer
thanks
wanabee

 

[Tiberius]

OK,
What does the battery voltage do afterwards? Does it recover when the controller is disconnected?

Possible causes:

A short or something else wrong in the controller and the battery protection circuit tripping.

High impedance or a poor connection in the battery or battery leads. It could be that a fuse or other protection device has tripped but there is enough leakage to measure a voltage.

Battery is actually flat, although the charger says its full. This can happen if there is a fuse in the charging circuit that has blown. This is unlikely in this case, though, if the battery is reading 41 V.

Nick

 

[Blew it]

Hang on a bit!

Wanabee, When you measured your battery voltage, are you sure the red probe was on the red battery wire and the black probe on the black wire. If they were, your battery polarity is arse-about-face. This is shown by the minus sign in front of the reading

Your controller is protecting itself against this reversed polarity. Please don't do anything until the other guys give their opinions.

Regards
Bob

 

[jerrysimon]

Bob, excellent point that would certain do it!

He said he tested the power lead maybe that is connected the wrong way round ?

Regards

Jerry

 

[Blew it]

Hi Jerry, I've just had a look at wanabee's photo of the battery tails, that damage looks like the insulation has started to melt which confirms my suspicion the polarity is incorrect. If it is, then he just needs to swap the connections.

Wanabee:

I think it would be best to check the battery output with your meter again. Place the red probe on what you think is the positive wire and the black probe on the other. If a minus sign appears in front of the reading on your meter, then swap the probes around. If the minus sign disappears, then the wire under the red probe is positive, and the wire under the black probe is negative.

If this is the case, then it may be that you need to swap the controller connections around, but only you, can make that decision. Hang on until a few more members can post their opinions.

 

[ELECTRIC AVENUES]

Conhis should change their name to Hiscon. That would be apt. They are sham-meisters, avoid. Endless-Sphere is full of guys with problems with Con-His stuff.

 

[Blew it]

Electric Avenues

Thanks for the heads up on this supplier. All we can do now is see if we can salvage the members project. The chances are the controller was ruined at the first switch on. I'm thinking it's unlikely that the colour coding on what is obviously a generic controller would be wrong. Far more likely is incorrect colour coding on the duck-tape battery. Depending on 'wanabee' rechecking the battery output as I suggested, it may well be there is nothing to be lost by reversing the battery connection to the controller.

I'm not really up to speed on how modern circuits are protected against incorrect connection to the power source. In the days when I operated pirate vhf transceivers this was done with a reverse current diode. In the event of incorrect connection the diode fried, it being a simple matter to solder a new one onto the board.

Fingers crossed!

 

[ELECTRIC AVENUES]

Thanks for the heads up on this supplier. All we can do now is see if we can salvage the members project. The chances are the controller was ruined at the first switch on. I'm thinking it's unlikely that the colour coding on what is obviously a generic controller would be wrong. Far more likely is incorrect colour coding on the duck-tape battery. Depending on 'wanabee' rechecking the battery output as I suggested, it may well be there is nothing to be lost by reversing the battery connection to the controller.

I'm not really up to speed on how modern circuits are protected against incorrect connection to the power source. In the days when I operated pirate vhf transceivers this was done with a reverse current diode. In the event of incorrect connection the diode fried, it being a simple matter to solder a new onto the board.

Fingers crossed!

No problem....I have been watching this seller. They have very patchy feedback.

 

[wanabee]

Wanabee, When you measured your battery voltage, are you sure the red probe was on the red battery wire and the black probe on the black wire. If they were, your battery polarity is arse-about-face. This is shown by the minus sign in front of the reading

Your controller is protecting itself against this reversed polarity. Please don't do anything until the other guys give their opinions.

Regards
Bob

hi bob
well i rechecked the old power lead and it is wired the same way so i changed
the + from battery to - on the controller and the battery green leds stayed stayed on and the throttle lights came on but the on/off button did not change
anything all lights stayed on
but no power to backwheel ? now i dont trust any of the connections
thanks alot
regards wanabee

 

[wanabee]

Bob, excellent point that would certain do it!

He said he tested the power lead maybe that is connected the wrong way round ?

Regards

Jerry

well i rechecked the old power lead and it is wired the same way so i changed
the + from battery to - on the controller and the battery green leds stayed stayed on and the throttle lights came on but the on/off button did not change
anything all lights stayed on
but no power to backwheel ? now i dont trust any of the connections
thanks alot
regards wanabee

 

[jerrysimon]

Well sounds like your moving forward at least

I guess your going to have to check all the other connections.

Regards

Jerry

 

[Blew it]

I'm guessing the connections are:

3 = throttle on/off button
4 = throttle
5 = throttle LED's ?
6 = pedelec sensor
7 = brake inhibitor switches

Disconnect plug no. 4 (throttle?). With the power switched on, check the voltage across the black pin and the red pin on the socket to which the throttle was connected ( controller connection 4 ). there should be around 5 volts showing across the two pins. If there is no voltage showing, press the throttle on/off button once and check for voltage again.

I don't want to sound patronising, but have you tried turning the pedals to see if the pedelec will start the motor?.

One more check. disconnect the brake inhibitor plug at connection 7. The switches on the brake levers are normally open, so the motor should run with the brake lever cables unplugged. If one of those brake lever switches is dodgy it will prevent the system working, but the throttle LED's will still be lit.

I'm running out of ideas on how we can check the controller to see if it survived the first switch-on.

Happy days!

 

[jerrysimon]

Number 5 may be the throttle actually.

All you need connected to test it, is the motor 1 & 2 and the throttle 5 ? and forget the others for now. Though saying that if there is a power switch

Also what about doing a search on the kit in other forums/the web as someone may have a correct wiring diagram ?

Or better still get the buggers to give you one!

Regards

Jerry

 

[john]

well i rechecked the old power lead and it is wired the same way so i changed
the + from battery to - on the controller and the battery green leds stayed stayed on and the throttle lights came on but the on/off button did not change
anything all lights stayed on
but no power to backwheel ? now i dont trust any of the connections
thanks alot
regards wanabee

If power was supplied with reverse polarity it is unlikely that the controller survived. Since high current seems to have been drawn from the battery then it is unlikely that the controller was protected, which is not unusual.

 

[wanabee]

I'm guessing the connections are

I'm guessing the connections are:

3 = throttle on/off button
4 = throttle
5 = throttle LED's ?
6 = pedelec sensor
7 = brake inhibitor switches

Disconnect plug no. 4 (throttle?). With the power switched on, check the voltage across the black pin and the red pin on the socket to which the throttle was connected ( controller connection 4 ). there should be around 5 volts showing across the two pins. If there is no voltage showing, press the throttle on/off button once and check for voltage again.

I don't want to sound patronising, but have you tried turning the pedals to see if the pedelec will start the motor?.

One more check. disconnect the brake inhibitor plug at connection 7. The switches on the brake levers are normally open, so the motor should run with the brake lever cables unplugged. If one of those brake lever switches is dodgy it will prevent the system working, but the throttle LED's will still be lit.

I'm running out of ideas on how we can check the controller to see if it survived the first switch-on.

Happy days!

hi Blew it
when i checked connections 4 and 6 the voltage was 4.38volts
i have not installed pedelec as cant get the peddle cranc of but am on with that now .
i will keep you posted
thanks
regards

 

[wanabee]

got the wireing diagram

i got the correct wireing diagram from conhis
this is the one for twist throttle