Rescue a failing Kalkhoff?

[KirstinS]

Do the test d8veh recommends

Which is

Take the BMS and put it in a cupboard. Leave it there

Take your 36v pack (just the cell pack)

Plug that into your bike's controller ( thick red and thick black power cables)

Does bike work ?

 

[Kamakiriad]

Thank you Kirstin. That's exactly what I suggested in post #30 though I maybe didn't phrase it well. What then threw me was in post #31 D8veh says "you should always use a BMS with a lithium battery".

I apologise for any confusion caused and time wasted. I will update when replacement wheel arrives.

 

[Nealh]

Thank you Kirstin. That's exactly what I suggested in post #30 though I maybe didn't phrase it well. What then threw me was in post #31 D8veh says "you should always use a BMS with a lithium battery".

I apologise for any confusion caused and time wasted. I will update when replacement wheel arrives.

Under normal use a bms is advisable for good charge /discharge management of the battery however in a temporary test situation (as yours is) it is not necessary.

 

[Kamakiriad]

I am pleased to report that the battery test has been successful. Console fires up, throttle and PAS both turn the motor.
Is there a particular BMS anyone would recommend?

 

[Nealh]

Look on ebay or aliexpress make sure the description says it has the balance function and one with a decent amp range for your needs 20 -25a is more than.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/10S-36V-42V-20A-lithium-ion-battery-BMS-For-36V-10Ah-E-bike-li-ion-batteries/536657_32807785538.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.18ee9e3dRsW3VG

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/36V-BMS-3-7V-Cell-10S-PCM-Wholesale-and-Retail-Used-For-36V-Lithium-Battery-Assembly/1339108032.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.55.Fc64C0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10344_10345_10547_10342_10343_10340_10341_10548_10192_10541_10190_10307_5680011_10301_10303_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10536_10059_10534_10533_100031_10103_10102_10142_10107_10324_10325_10084_10562_10083_10179_10312_10313_10184_10314_10073_10557,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=f558a3b3-0a24-4960-a439-0da84e0051e7&algo_expid=3da1aa3f-5944-4abf-8d63-9087b5284b29-10&algo_pvid=3da1aa3f-5944-4abf-8d63-9087b5284b29

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-10S-Li-ion-Lithium-Cell-20A-18650-Battery-Protection-BMS-MOS-Board-Balance/172761663009?epid=7004521508&hash=item283965c621:m:mLVTCntBusfFWXNFqYbiV2g

 

[Kamakiriad]

Thank you Nealh. We don't want to have to wait too long for delivery, so is this one or this one suitable?

Also can anyone recommend a suitable charger? D8veh suspects the Kalkhoff charger won't work as it depends on data from the battery.

 

[Nealh]

Both should work and have balance function.

Which ever charger you get you may have to change the dc end connector to match your batteries socket.
Any 2 - 3a Sans type plastic charger will work or a quality meanwell hlg80/100 42a these have voltage and amp adjustment .
Though give your original a try first.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've used the first one, which worked as it should.

 

[Kamakiriad]

It has taken ages but the Kalkhoff is rideable again. Well, almost.

It was not too hard to rewire the battery, and once the battery has run down we will see if the old charger still works or not.

The problem just now is Cyclotricity's wheel. It is actually the second wheel they have sent me, as the first had a "dead spot". Unfortunately there is a problem with the spokes, which you can hear creaking against each other when someone rides the bike. The bike has been sitting in the garage in bits for umpteen weeks now so this problem has only just become apparent.

I don't even think the wheel is laced up properly?


At the hub spokes are threaded alternately from the inside and the outside:



As a result the spokes struggle to get out of each other's way and are decidedly curved:


On the Kalkhoff all spokes come through from the inside:


and they are straight and silent.

Any thoughts?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Spokes creak when they're loose. The lacing pattern of the Cyclotricity is pretty standard. There's no rule for how to do it. It doesn't look fantastic re the angle of the spokes where they exit the rim, but I've seen loads like that, which work without problems.

 

[Kamakiriad]

Thought you'd all like to know the failing Kalkhoff has finally been rescued and, touch wood, we have a rideable e-bike again.

The local bike shop advised me not to re-lace the spokes and they just tightened them up (a second time). No more creaking!

So far we are impressed with the Cyclotricity kit. Motor seems good, though it's far noisier than the almost-silent Kalkhoff was. Console seems good and wiring loom is excellent. On the whole Cyclotricity have been helpful, but they clearly need to do something about the spokes on their wheels which have been far too loose.

It has not been a straightforward job but it had to be done. As well as buying the kit we've had to replace rear freewheel, derailleur, shifter and chain to cope with the change from 9-speed to 7-speed. Bike and wheels had to go to the local bike shop four times. PAS ring had to be drilled out. And of course I had to re-wire a new BMS to the battery. Thankfully it works and the old Kalkhoff charger still seems to work with it!

Will take some photos at the weekend.