Replacing/Adding a 36v Battery. (Lots of pictures for guidance)

[yusufilaa]

I currently own a Roux Big Slick which I bought second hand. I would like to buy an additional battery to use when the current one runs out (36v) however I am unable to purchase an OEM battery due to not being able to get into contact with the manufacturer in any way. Moving forward, I aim to purchase a 36v battery, however, I am currently facing problems in regards to connecting the proprietary connector into whichever battery I choose (haven't bought one yet) -
Can anyone guide me to a way to do this? Or a Battery which will have a wire to connect into the proprietary connector? Any guidance is very much appreciated, thank you.

The specs of the bike are, as following:
- A BFSWX02 36V250W (13) 27.5-1703210553-6 rear hub motor with disc brake.
- Controller specs: Rated voltage=36v Software no. CRS1053613E010118.1
- Battery: Model - HT1003BA, Spec: 36v 6.6 Ah and Manufacturer: TD HiTech.

Below I have attached the following pictures:
The Big Slick E-bike (this was bought second-hand)
The Bike's battery
The proprietary connector in question (four wires).

The proprietary connector and the two battery wires both connect onto the plug, which is pictured in the images.

 

[vfr400]

I've worked on a lot of electric bikes, but I've never seen a double battery connector like that before. I'm pretty sure that you're only chance to get another battery is from an OEM supplier.

I'd like to know what those 4 wires do. you only need two for a switch, so what do the others do and where do they go? Maybe two are for the LED in the switch if they all connect to the switch itself. If they're data wires, it'll substantially limit any options to seek alternative arrangements.

Can you show a picture of the battery itself and the charge socket?

 

[yusufilaa]

I've worked on a lot of electric bikes, but I've never seen a double battery connector like that before. I'm pretty sure that you're only chance to get another battery is from an OEM supplier.

I'd like to know what those 4 wires do. you only need two for a switch, so what do the others do and where do they go? Maybe two are for the LED in the switch if they all connect to the switch itself. If they're data wires, it'll substantially limit any options to seek alternative arrangements.

Can you show a picture of the battery itself and the charge socket?

Ah that makes a lot of sense! The Power button does emit a blue light when it is clicked on, so that's what two of them wires must do (or would this be the role of one of them wires?)

I have also attached an image of the battery charger socket.

 

[vfr400]

The socket would indicate no data. It looks like an RCA type fitted to a lot of ebikes, but it's impossible to get a sense of its size. You didn't answer the question whether all 4 wires went to the switch or whether two went elsewhere.

 

[yusufilaa]

Apologies, all four wires locate to the switch. I'll update with a photo.

Could I, in theory, Just disregard this on/off switch an the connector all together when installing a new battery and use the new batteries switch instead? Like on this one:

 

[WheezyRider]

If you put a multimeter on the 4 wires from the switch, are any of them shorted together?

 

[MontyPAS]

The socket would indicate no data. It looks like an RCA type fitted to a lot of ebikes, but it's impossible to get a sense of its size. You didn't answer the question whether all 4 wires went to the switch or whether two went elsewhere.

Looks like a 3 pin DIN rather than RCA

 

[vfr400]

Apologies, all four wires locate to the switch. I'll update with a photo.

Could I, in theory, Just disregard this on/off switch an the connector all together when installing a new battery and use the new batteries switch instead? Like on this one:View attachment 39069

The only problem is that you have to remove your present battery to get at the connectors, which would leave a big hole in the frame that would look a bit weird, but wouldn't do any harm.

You can use any 36v lithium battery you want. Just connect the two wires and forget about the switch.

I'd change the bullet connectors to something decent and connect there. You'll proably get a bit of a spark and snap noise each time you connect. It's just due to the inrush into the controller's capacitors, nothing to worry about.

 

[yusufilaa]

The only problem is that you have to remove your present battery to get at the connectors, which would leave a big hole in the frame that would look a bit weird, but wouldn't do any harm.

You can use any 36v lithium battery you want. Just connect the two wires and forget about the switch.

I'd change the bullet connectors to something decent and connect there. You'll proably get a bit of a spark and snap noise each time you connect. It's just due to the inrush into the controller's capacitors, nothing to worry about.

Thank you very much for clearing it up for me. Now the hunt begins for a good battery!

If you put a multimeter on the 4 wires from the switch, are any of them shorted together?

Unfortunately I do not own a mulitmeter but I will make that my next purchase.

 

[yusufilaa]

I'd change the bullet connectors to something decent and connect there.

Yes I've been aiming to replace the connectors with Anderson Powerpoles. Will they suffice?

 

[vfr400]

Yes I've been aiming to replace the connectors with Anderson Powerpoles. Will they suffice?

They're not my favourite connectors. XT60s are a lot better.

 

[yusufilaa]

They're not my favourite connectors. XT60s are a lot better.

Yes ive read the XT60s are very reliable. However I dont own a soldering iron atm so would be difficult to proceed with.

 

[vfr400]

Yes ive read the XT60s are very reliable. However I dont own a soldering iron atm so would be difficult to proceed with.

You shouldn't be messing about changing things on an electric bike without a good digital meter and a soldering iron.

 

[yusufilaa]

You shouldn't be messing about changing things on an electric bike without a good digital meter and a soldering iron.

But I can connect Anderson Powerpoles through crimping thus disregarding the need for a soldering iron no?

Can you recommend a good digital meter I could purchase?
Edit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRICSÂ-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter/dp/B00TM0W8ZY/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=digital+meter&qid=1604417027&sr=8-6 how about this meter?

 

[MontyPAS]

Crimping will be fine, but owning a pedelec, I can guarantee you will need a soldering iron at some time.
As long as the meter can read above the voltage of your battery, and has resistance ranges.... it will be fine!

 

[yusufilaa]

Crimping will be fine, but owning a pedelec, I can guarantee you will need a soldering iron at some time.
As long as the meter can read above the voltage of your battery, and has resistance ranges.... it will be fine!

Great!
I see you own a Yose Power hub - I was wondering, do you have any experience with YosePower batteries? I've found a 36v 20ah battery from them that looks like it would be brilliant, however, I hadn't heard of the company prior to finding the battery.

 

[MontyPAS]

Great!
I see you own a Yose Power hub - I was wondering, do you have any experience with YosePower batteries? I've found a 36v 20ah battery from them that looks like it would be brilliant, however, I hadn't heard of the company prior to finding the battery.

I bought a Yose kit for a winter hack (also my other bikes are in a container in preparation for moving to the other end of the country).
I bought this kit https://yosepower.com/collections/motor-kit-with-battery/products/36v-350w-26-27-5-28-rear-motor-kit-for-cassette
And this battery https://yosepower.com/collections/36v-battery/products/36v-12-5ah-down-tube-battery

Yose are a very easy company to deal with, quick delivery in about 5 days to the UK from Germany. Battery came first, kit came a day later.
The 350 motor is plenty powerful for a winter hack. The controller is basic. The battery is fine for a 12.5Ah unit. Where I live currently it is pretty hilly and on average obtain 18-22 miles per charge.

I have bought bigger Ah, em3ev batteries in the past for reliability and power. They are great but twice the price!

 

[vfr400]

But I can connect Anderson Powerpoles through crimping thus disregarding the need for a soldering iron no?

Can you recommend a good digital meter I could purchase?
Edit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRICSÂ-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter/dp/B00TM0W8ZY/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=digital+meter&qid=1604417027&sr=8-6 how about this meter?

I don't recommend crimping unless you have the proper tool for it. Don't try and do it with pliers or one of those joke crimping tools. I wouldn't normally scaremonger anybody, but there are real risks if you don't do it correctly.

 

[yusufilaa]

I don't recommend crimping unless you have the proper tool for it. Don't try and do it with pliers or one of those joke crimping tools. I wouldn't normally scaremonger anybody, but there are real risks if you don't do it correctly.

Oh yes I completely agree, I will purchase a good crimping tool prior to conducting this.
I was in the belief that soldering irons are very expensive, however, I've found some which are good value for money (not dirt cheap).

As this bike will strictly be used for deliveries, I'm going to proceed forward with crimping the powerpoles. I will also be building a mid-drive kit bike in the near future (around summer) and will proceed with soldering instead of crimping with the xt60 connectors.

 

[vfr400]

Oh yes I completely agree, I will purchase a good crimping tool prior to conducting this.
I was in the belief that soldering irons are very expensive, however, I've found some which are good value for money (not dirt cheap).

As this bike will strictly be used for deliveries, I'm going to proceed forward with crimping the powerpoles. I will also be building a mid-drive kit bike in the near future (around summer) and will proceed with soldering instead of crimping with the xt60 connectors.

£3 gets you a useable soldering iron on Ebay - a lot cheaper than a crimping tool. You want 60/40 tin/lead solder.