Help! Replacement electronic controller required

[Tony Emerson]

I have a Freego Hawk purchased mid-2012, The controller on this went bust about 3 days after Freego followed suit!
The controller Model No is: YK223 - 2 1 : 1, and the bar code is 1206AI 15500.
I wondered whether anyone out there could supply me with a replacement?
My Ph No is: 01470 572231/e-mail: anthony.emerson@btinternet.com

 

[Audio2]

Try https://www.e-bikesdirect.co.uk/brands/freego/ they have supposedly taken over all Freego spares.

 

[Tony Emerson]

Thanks for the e-mail!
Have already approached them. They could not assist, but were very helpful re other possible suppliers, plus suggesting that I should contact Pedelec.
Any other suggestions/offers appreciated
Regards,
Tony Emerson

 

[vfr400]

All controllers work the same, so, in principle, you can use any controller that fits in the compartment. Modern ones are a lot better than what was available in 2012. About £75 will get you a really nice one with an LCD and 5 levels of assist and it will make your motor much smoother and quieter.

There's one problem, though. When you use a different controller, you always have to change some connectors and so some minor wiring.

 

[Tony Emerson]

Thank you vfr400
I live on the Isle of Skye, and unfortunately there are no electric bike retailers here. .......... Consequently on the face of it, seems I have two basic options :
One: Given the new controller, and comprehensive instructions for matching it to my 2012 electrics could D-I-Y the job. The question then is: are such instructions available? Also does it have to be a variety of Freego controller, or will any make do, providing it fits into the controller housing? vfr400 would you be prepared to assist with the hook up info?
Two: identify a suitably equipped (and not too distant !) electric bike retailer, and get them to supply and fit the controller. Will investigate this one further.
Regards and thanks,
Tony Emerson

 

[Woosh]

controllers are not difficult to replace. There are plenty on amazon.
post some pictures. of the controller's label, connectors and LCD.

 

[vfr400]

Thank you vfr400
I live on the Isle of Skye, and unfortunately there are no electric bike retailers here. .......... Consequently on the face of it, seems I have two basic options :
One: Given the new controller, and comprehensive instructions for matching it to my 2012 electrics could D-I-Y the job. The question then is: are such instructions available? Also does it have to be a variety of Freego controller, or will any make do, providing it fits into the controller housing? vfr400 would you be prepared to assist with the hook up info?
Two: identify a suitably equipped (and not too distant !) electric bike retailer, and get them to supply and fit the controller. Will investigate this one further.
Regards and thanks,
Tony Emerson

We can walk you through the process. If you can solder (or have a friend that can do it), you'll be fine. Before we can recommend the right replacement, you need to show us what you have. please take one or more photos of the controller you have that shows each connector and the wires on it, like this. You don't need to label the wires. It's important that we can see the colours.

 

[Tony Emerson]

Thanks for the offers of help - will take some photos and get back to you.
In the meantime, and in case it's significant, not sure my bike's display counts as an LCD. It has: a front light on/off switch; a "+" and a "-" power level selection switch; three power level selected indicators (red pin head lights), and four similar red indicators showing battery power status.

 

[vfr400]

Thanks for the offers of help - will take some photos and get back to you.
In the meantime, and in case it's significant, not sure my bike's display counts as an LCD. It has: a front light on/off switch; a "+" and a "-" power level selection switch; three power level selected indicators (red pin head lights), and four similar red indicators showing battery power status.

That's what we call an LED control panel. That information is quite helpful in identifying which version you have. The later ones have LCDs.

Your version is a bit rudimentary by modern standards. You have a choice now. You can use the opportunity to upgrade your bike to a much better control system for about £75 or you can replace it with similar to what you have now for about £25.

When you pull your controller out, can you try and get some photos of all the wires while it's still connected. I seem to remember that your bike has something abnormal in the wiring. I can remember having a long discussion with the guy from Freego when he was telling me to do something that wasn't logical. I need to remind myself what it was.

I have to ask. Why do you believe that your controller is faulty?

 

[Tony Emerson]

Pictures in hand but on hold for now - house selling complications prevailing.
V. Good question! Bike in operation and suddenly lost power. Display lights all working,, but no response to peddling or to throttle application. Controller removed from housing and jiggled etc (low velocity ballistics!). Controller replaced and fully charged battery installed all to no benefit. Motor wiring intact. Motor phase resistances around 1.0 ohm. This left me with the controller at fault..................Any other checks I should/can do?

 

[Tony Emerson]

Attached are the controller photos plus some explanatory notes.
Hope this meets your requirements; any clarifications please let me know.
Re the choice of controller: Have no significant complaints with what we have now, so on the "KISS" principle would like to go with the 25 pounder (the Desert Rats favorite artillery piece).

Notes for Freego Controller Photo’s

Photo No
1935 – controller partially in housing and still fully connected
1936 – ditto but further out of the housing.
1937 – housing mid-line length and controller fully out of housing but still connected.
1938 – housing mid-line height and controller fully out of housing but still connected.
1947 – label on controller box. (Model No is; YK223-2 1:1)

1940 – cables and connectors laid out as follows:

Basically there are two groups of wires exiting one end of the controller box via white plastic bosses about 20mm apart

Going clockwise around the wires

@12 O/C: Blue wire at very top of picture still connected to bike (was loathe co cut it!)
This goes down to a connector with red + black wires leading to the upper boss (UB)

@1 O/C: Ex the UB - red wire with male bullet connector
@2 O/C: Ex the UB - black wire with female bullet connector
@3 O/C: Ex the UB - connector with red & black wires.
@4 O/C: Connector with green, blue, yellow, black, & red wires to lower boss (LB).
@5 O/C: Ex the LB - blue wire with female bullet connector
@6 O/C: Ex the LB - green wire with female bullet connector.
@7 O/C: Ex the LB - red and blue wires to a connector with additional red and blue wires extending to a further connector.
@9 O/C: Ex the LB – yellow wire with female bullet connector.
@11 O/C: Ex the UB –red, white, and black wires to a connector with an additional green wire extending to a further connector.

 

[vfr400]

Thanks. I can see the non-standard things. It's that blue wire that's permanently connected to the wiring harness and the green wire attached to the throttle.

I think I understand most of it, but I need some more info to get the whole story.

Can you follow the cable from the pedal sensor and confirm what wires it has on both sides of the connector? Do the wires go straight into the harness and not connected to the controller? T think that's it at the top of your photo with red, blue and back wires, but I can only see a single red wire coming out of the connector, so where do the blue and black go? Also, there's an unconnected connector with red and blue wires sitting bottom right of the compartment. was that connected to anything?

None of these are a problem that will stop you from substituting the controller. I just want the full story before making recommendations.

 

[Tony Emerson]

Thanks for that.
Will get back to you when house selling complications resolved......................

 

[Tony Emerson]

Hope this cct diagram provides the answers to your questions. NB to keep it readable, have left out the battery connections .
Any clarifications/errors please let me know

 

[vfr400]

I think I've got it now. Your LED display provides a throttle signal. Can you confirm that the green wire is joined to the white one in the red, white, black connector? Most LED displays don't work like that. I haven't sen one of those for about 7 years. They're really good for controllers that don't have a separate pedal sensor connector, like the brushed motor controllers.

I think what I'd do is chuck it all and make your bike a million times better by ordering one of these. With the throttle, LCD3, speed sensor and 10 magnet pedal sensor, it's about £60. You don't normally have to pay duty on them. There are cheaper solutions, but not as good. For the difference between £40 for a cheap one and this £60 the extra £20 is well worth it. You might be able to use your existing throttle and pedal sensor with adjustments to the wiring, but you should buy the replacements just in case, as they don't cost much and spares are always useful. Your brakes are compatible, but you might have to change the connectors or hard wire them, or you can leave them disconnected. They're not really needed with this controller.

24V/36V 250W 6Mosfets 15A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

 

[Tony Emerson]

Thanks for the ideas on the way ahead; I'll give them some thought...................

 

[Tony Emerson]

PS the green wire is sealed into the Blk/W/R connector with a tenacious plastic filler, so not directly visible. Checked it electrically via the connector pins and, as far as I can tell, the green and white wires are are connected to each other in the connector.

 

[vfr400]

Thanks, that's logical.

You said you'd tried a replacement controller. Was it exactly the same type?

What's worrying me is that the cause of your problem might be in the motor or its wiring.

If you want to take a step back and test your way to the root of the problem, we can help you with that, but you have to give us details of what went wrong and what you already tested.

 

[Tony Emerson]

Firstly, to clarify re my tests so far: the controller I took out and replaced is the one currently fitted, and not an alternative. What I did change was the battery. Apologies for not making that clear.
Thank you for the offer to look at other possible causes of the failure. Before doing so I should explain that I have another Freego Hawk which is a year older than the failed machine. I would have exchanged its working controller for the faulty unit, but my first encounter with the controller in its housing didn't exactly instill a feeling of confidence as to what went where, and via what wires/connections! (typical mechanical engineer..............). I also have to cut (and rejoin) the connector less pedal sensor blue cables, which I was loathe to do. Anyway, having now delved into the controller set up, can look again at a controller swop, as it should establish whether the controller faulty or not.
If however your tests are less invasive, within my limited electrical test gear (a multi-meter) and will produce the same result, maybe stick with them?
In the end my decision, but your comments welcomed.

 

[Tony Emerson]

Installed the faulty controller in place of the working unit in the “good” bike, as latter was known to have no controller damaging faults .
The two controllers have identical model numbers.
The outcome of a trial run of this set up was as follows:
All “the battery is charged” LEDs lit up
The power selection switch worked – i.e. it was possible to switch between the LO, MID & HI power settings, and the requisite LEDs lit up

And most importantly: The motor did not respond to pedaling or application of the throttle.

This confirmed that the controller is faulty, but did not establish whether the cause is wholly internal to the unit, or external leading to an internal failure.

In light of this are there any tests I can do that would establish such an external fault? (Have checked between the three motor supply cables and all measure about 1ohm.)

In any case I need to purchase a new controller. In order to simplify the changeover process suggest need one that is as close to the existing unit as is feasible. Also cheap, so that if I ruin it the loss is bearable!
Grateful if you could advise links to candidate units