I've got a Green Edge CS2 with the old 2 pin 36v battery, which are now really hard to get hold of and expensive. So, I'd like to replace the battery and battery base, but keep the same 250w 36v hub motor, and all the wiring / display controller etc. The Motor has a 9 pin connector, see photos..... Any advice on where to get a new battery / battery base compatible with this set up would be amazing. There's so much to look at online I'm a bit overwelmed... I can't seem to find anything with the 9 pin connectors. Or can anyone recommend a seller with decent prices and a technical department I could chat to? Thanks!
Replacement battery / battery base - Help!
- Thread starter Towse
- Start date
Hi Looks like your controller is enclosed within the battery holder base?
3 main aspects to an ebike motor, battery, and controller/display. If replacing the controller you generally need to replace the display too as they are often paired with custom firmware.
Im not aware of replacement batteries/bases of that style. so to keep the current controller you would need to extract it from the battery base and house it in a controller box or triangle bag.
The hailong style batteries and sled mounts are widely available and greenlance is a uk supplier i was pointed towards in here.. Also yose-power the folk who supplied my conversion kit sell batteries folk seem to trust ( Mine is great 12month on,..)
controller boxes and bags can be found on ebay ali express etc and should not cost much, also look at the silicone coil wire wraps to help tidy up the cabling..
3 main aspects to an ebike motor, battery, and controller/display. If replacing the controller you generally need to replace the display too as they are often paired with custom firmware.
Im not aware of replacement batteries/bases of that style. so to keep the current controller you would need to extract it from the battery base and house it in a controller box or triangle bag.
The hailong style batteries and sled mounts are widely available and greenlance is a uk supplier i was pointed towards in here.. Also yose-power the folk who supplied my conversion kit sell batteries folk seem to trust ( Mine is great 12month on,..)
controller boxes and bags can be found on ebay ali express etc and should not cost much, also look at the silicone coil wire wraps to help tidy up the cabling..
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You're showing a picture of a controller in a silver box. Is that's your existing controller or just a reference picture? If that's the existing unit, any battery works.
If the 9 pin cable comes out of the battery cradle, then the controller is in there. You could be clever and cut the round base off the old battery cable. Make a bracket to mount it on the bike frame. Then any battery can connected to the power pins.
If the 9 pin cable comes out of the battery cradle, then the controller is in there. You could be clever and cut the round base off the old battery cable. Make a bracket to mount it on the bike frame. Then any battery can connected to the power pins.
Initially I also thought it is a box, but it looks like close up from battery base.
Your controller is designed to fit directly into the battery base. If you take it off the battery by unscrewing the screws, you'll see that the electronics are on the other side of the aluminium plate. The only thing you can do with it is to move it into one of those triangular tool bags that fot at the top back of the frame triangle, then run a couple of wires to the new battery, otherwise you need to replace the controller and LCD.
Thanks for all the replies! Yeah, that silver box is actually a sticker on the bottom of the batter base, where the controller lives. I can't see any batteries on the market that have the same 2 pin sprung studs like mine, and I'm not convinced the existing controller is working. The battery is dead, and I don't want to buy another one at the price they're at (£399) - So I think I need a new battery, battery base, and controller. Currently the battery base has 2 cables coming out of it - one is a 9 pin connector to the hub, and the other goes up to the display and branches off to sensors etc (this one is taped up, but I'm assuming it's a 9 pin connector too).
If the battery is faulty, you can test the bike with the wheel off the ground (n0 load) with the charger plugged in to provide the power. If it doesn't work like that, something else is faulty.
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